Justintoxicated Posted May 2, 2007 Report Posted May 2, 2007 (edited) I Edited May 2, 2007 by Justintoxicated Quote
charles_in_houston Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Posted May 2, 2007 I'm going to invest in a ceramic Ball as well, then you can't weld them together Pandcake is not enough for me:) Where can I get the ceramic ball? Quote
Justintoxicated Posted May 2, 2007 Report Posted May 2, 2007 Where can I get the ceramic ball? Looking into this myself right now Quote
bigboybanshee Posted May 2, 2007 Report Posted May 2, 2007 I ran a lockout with no pancake bearing all year last year and had no problems. All I did was run 2 quarts of oil like mentioned above, and never encountered a welded ball and rod, and I'd rev the shit out of my bike with the clutch pulled in... I also wouldn't recommend getting the ceramic ball since I've heard of it shattering to little bitty pieces on more than one occasion. I wouldn't loctite the nut on my clutch adjuster either, that's something you'll want to move later down the road when you need to adjust the clutch. :shrug: I'd just pull it apart, get you a pancake bearing, and run a full 2 quarts of tranny fluid. I use bel ray 85w :beer: Quote
Justintoxicated Posted May 2, 2007 Report Posted May 2, 2007 (edited) I ran a lockout with no pancake bearing all year last year and had no problems. All I did was run 2 quarts of oil like mentioned above, and never encountered a welded ball and rod, and I'd rev the shit out of my bike with the clutch pulled in... I also wouldn't recommend getting the ceramic ball since I've heard of it shattering to little bitty pieces on more than one occasion. I wouldn't loctite the nut on my clutch adjuster either, that's something you'll want to move later down the road when you need to adjust the clutch. :shrug: I'd just pull it apart, get you a pancake bearing, and run a full 2 quarts of tranny fluid. I use bel ray 85w :beer: Well I'm definately going to locktight the nut, it already came off once in my case and now a bunch of stuff is all chewed up. I have a new lockup on the way. I'm running 1.8 quarts I did not weld the ball but if your clutch was not fully disengauging this can happen no matter how much oil you use....Really should not need to adjust the clutch THAT often, unless your replacing it. I can get all my adjustment I need out of my Factory Yamaha Clutch lever. Edited May 2, 2007 by Justintoxicated Quote
bigboybanshee Posted May 2, 2007 Report Posted May 2, 2007 Do you not think that nut could have just come loose from not tightening it down enough when you put it together? I mean, what happened to you is totally possible, but out of the 4 years I've been riding and 2 years of racing, I've never had that problem and I don't loctite the nut. You are right though, you shouldn't have to adjust that part of your clutch often at all, but I'm just thinking of the long term. Are you talking about using red or blue loctite? Quote
charles_in_houston Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Posted May 2, 2007 I ran a lockout with no pancake bearing all year last year and had no problems. All I did was run 2 quarts of oil like mentioned above, and never encountered a welded ball and rod, and I'd rev the shit out of my bike with the clutch pulled in... From my limited understanding of this problem, pulling in the clutch and revving the engine isn Quote
Justintoxicated Posted May 2, 2007 Report Posted May 2, 2007 From my limited understanding of this problem, pulling in the clutch and revving the engine isn Quote
charles_in_houston Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Posted May 2, 2007 When you pull in the clutch the rod pushes on the ball and the ball pushes open the clutch plates and allows you to shift. So anytime when you pull in the clutch is when your at risk, especialy at High RPM... If your clutch was not fully disengauging then the rod would constantly ride against the ball. The bearing allows the the piece on the other end of the ball to spin which helps reduces having this problem. Ok, so let me see if this makes sense. The clutch basket is driven by the motor (crankshaft). The clutch hub inside the clutch basket is directly attached to the transmission. The clutch pressure plate screws into the clutch hub and is therefore also driven by the transmission. The clutch pushrod and ball are inside the clutch hub and pressure plate. If that is correct, then wouldn Quote
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