Quint Posted March 9, 2007 Report Posted March 9, 2007 Right this is probably my own stupid fault and i guess also what happens if you leave stripping something till the night before it goes to powder coat!! The bolts that hold my brakes to my hubs were incredibly tight and beyond even a good quality allen key set. So i figured get the impact driver on it.... not much movement so i tried the air impact driver and success with the first three, they looked like they had been bathed in loctite!! but they were out. number 4 was a different story and has just rounded as have 3 of the bolts in the other hub!! what do you recommend seen as they are loctite'd up real good? drill them out and retap? any option seems like its gonna be a nightmare! ahh the joys Quote
trueraiderfan Posted March 9, 2007 Report Posted March 9, 2007 Right this is probably my own stupid fault and i guess also what happens if you leave stripping something till the night before it goes to powder coat!! The bolts that hold my brakes to my hubs were incredibly tight and beyond even a good quality allen key set. So i figured get the impact driver on it.... not much movement so i tried the air impact driver and success with the first three, they looked like they had been bathed in loctite!! but they were out. number 4 was a different story and has just rounded as have 3 of the bolts in the other hub!! what do you recommend seen as they are loctite'd up real good? drill them out and retap? any option seems like its gonna be a nightmare! ahh the joys if you have a welder or a buddie with a welder you cand tack on a new bolt and turn it off that way. I do it all the time and it workd great. Quote
Bansh-eman Posted March 9, 2007 Report Posted March 9, 2007 make sure you dont use cheap china made galvanized bolts if you do this... they melt very ez and will pop the melted metal in your face.... Quote
black sunshine Posted March 9, 2007 Report Posted March 9, 2007 If you dont have a welder try using a pipe wrench or vise grips. A little heat will soften the loctite as well Quote
woodro77 Posted March 9, 2007 Report Posted March 9, 2007 heat it with a torch , get some visegrips on that bitch and it will come right out Quote
LiftdT4R Posted March 9, 2007 Report Posted March 9, 2007 heat it with a torch , get some visegrips on that bitch and it will come right out I second that, that's probably what you should have done in the first place, anytime you se loc tite, heat is a sure bet. Don't go too crazy, but if you have an oxyacetaline torch, just heat her up for a maybe 20 seconds or so, and loctite will melt away. Quote
FireHead Posted March 9, 2007 Report Posted March 9, 2007 You probably need to let it soak in some penetrating oil and/or heat the hub up. My experiene with those bolts is that they stretch and deform under normal use and they are almost always a pain to get out. They even deform the hole that thye are thread in to sometimes. Obviously once you get the bolt out you should look into replacing all of the fasteners with new ones (quality, graded fasteners). I am not sure that quality, graded fasteners are the ultimate solution to the problem though. I have had problems getting bolts that I purchased out of this location, which leads me to believe that there is a bit of a design flaw here, in that they fasteners are either undersized or subject to a torsionalt stress of sorts. A few years ago I thought the problem with these parts was due to the effects of heat cycling, so I replaced the bolts with aluminum fasteners. They wound up doing the same thing that the stainless and plain graded steel hardware had done. I currently have fasteners made out of 300M in that application on my current bike, I have not had a reason to take them apart as of yet, so I have no idea if that solved the problem. I am thinking that the ultimate fix may be to use an aftermarket hub, but I haven't really looked into it and it could be that they have the same problem as well, just with a better material (for some reason I think I need a complete set of Hardkor Engineering hubs :ermm: ). Quote
Quint Posted March 10, 2007 Author Report Posted March 10, 2007 thanks for the replies. i am a plumber so i am off to get the mapp gas and dogs (pump pliers) out and get on it. thanks again. oh and do you recommend getting bolts from the dealership or find some stainless ones, i might be green but what are graded bolts? cheers guys after reading the recent big argument fest i was a bit nervous about even posting but i know your all mega helpful so long as you dont behave in a questionable way!! Quote
black sunshine Posted March 10, 2007 Report Posted March 10, 2007 oh and do you recommend getting bolts from the dealership or find some stainless ones, i might be green but what are graded bolts? Graded bolts (grade 8) are hardened for a higher tensile strength. If you go with OEM, try one of the sites advertised on the site, teamalpine.com. They offer discounts and have on-line microfiche exploded diagrams so you know exactly what you are ordering. If your dealership is like most, they will have to order them anyway; usually at a higher cost and longer wait time!!! Quote
Quint Posted March 10, 2007 Author Report Posted March 10, 2007 dont know if your interested but a progress update; Brakes are off!! 2 came out using heat and a bar none came out with dogs or grips as nothing really to grip to so drilled them out i know!! so will have it all powdercoated then weld a bar on the stump that is whats left of the bolt and get it off when i get back (hopefully either thaat or drill it out and re-tap i guess. thanks for the help guess i should ask before next time, oh and the discs were solid even with penetrating spray left for a while i had to lever them off so i dont know if they are gonners!! if only life was as simple as the clymers depicts. 'undo bolts and remove disc' Yeah it was just like that!! ahahahah Quote
FireHead Posted March 10, 2007 Report Posted March 10, 2007 thanks for the replies. i am a plumber so i am off to get the mapp gas and dogs (pump pliers) out and get on it. thanks again. oh and do you recommend getting bolts from the dealership or find some stainless ones, i might be green but what are graded bolts? cheers guys after reading the recent big argument fest i was a bit nervous about even posting but i know your all mega helpful so long as you dont behave in a questionable way!! A grade of a bolt is a standard that a bolt is manufactured to. National standards you may see are Grade 5 or Grade 8 and are identified by hash marks that are forged in to the top of the bolt head. Of course that's just an example as metric fasteners are not gradedd that way. Metric fasteners are grade via a DIN or Nippon standard schedule and will be represented by a decimal number on top of the head of the bolt (12.4 is an example). Long story short, a graded fastener assures a minimum quality and strength charactersitic of a fastener. :geek: Quote
black sunshine Posted March 10, 2007 Report Posted March 10, 2007 A grade of a bolt is a standard that a bolt is manufactured to. National standards you may see are Grade 5 or Grade 8 and are identified by hash marks that are forged in to the top of the bolt head. Of course that's just an example as metric fasteners are not gradedd that way. Metric fasteners are grade via a DIN or Nippon standard schedule and will be represented by a decimal number on top of the head of the bolt (12.4 is an example). Long story short, a graded fastener assures a minimum quality and strength charactersitic of a fastener. :geek: I thought all along it had to do with the carbon content of the steel and the heat treatment process it had endured, am I wrong? Quote
FireHead Posted March 10, 2007 Report Posted March 10, 2007 I thought all along it had to do with the carbon content of the steel and the heat treatment process it had endured, am I wrong? Heat treatment is a big part of it the property of the fastener, but that's not what the standard defines. Same thing with carbon content. So, yes, you are wrong, but it's really not a simple subject. Different standards organizations specify different properties in their given standards. Rarely can any of the standards be exactly cross referenced to each other. Instead of posting a link to the definitions of the standards, here is more useful docuement. http://www.americanfastener.com/technical/...kings_steel.asp Quote
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