Quint

ok so just going through the finishing list. was filling up with coolant, put the 1.25 litres of water in first but it was full at that! then water starts dripping so i check all the hoses and then see it coming out from where the cylinder head seals against the cylinders, it seems to be coming out from all around. water is fairly leaking out, though so it seems major. and i did put the metal gasket on as it said in the clymers too. I torqued up the head like it said in the clymers and in 3 steps. was a new torque wrench too. have checked nuts and all feel tight. I have had the head skimmed, new pistons & rings, gaskets, hoses and billet waterpump impeller. what have i done????

anyone else have an xfactor one? I have one sitting waiting to go back on. Looks nice...

fuck aye son that was a book! but a damn good en! :biggrin: glad your all ok when is the sequel out???? :wink: seriously though that is a hell of a weekend!

yeah bansh-eman is right no home depot but we have b&q which basically the same shit. Have tried mapp gas on it myself and the guy at the garage tried the oxy-acetalene on it. I maybe got the wrong end of the stick. its the wheel hubs that are off and the sprocket hub that is stuck, i guess the axle carrier is probably stuck but first thing is the bleeding sprocket jobby. He said he was gonna soak it in something so its probably something like that milk stuff. If not when i get it back i will try what you have said. Its true about stuff like this, the swingarm bearings were a bitch but i saw a post and tried one guys solution and bingo! so i had a bit of a search for this and didnt get much back but for folk in the future all the info is here. I will let you know on tuesday how it goes, the weather is nice here so i cant wait for it to be finished!!! spent the day fixing my wifes quad, i am that bored!! hahah thanks again

no hubs are off and powdercoated waiting to go back on! Axle is out of the swingarm which is also powdercoated and waiting for the axle! I tried the soaking it with rust loosener (some mental german stuff i use on my Pajero Evo that always gets the job done) and walloping it with the deadblow and turning it but it wasnt for doing jack! I will go and see him on tuesday and see if he has had any success if not i will try the press trick! Just so i can let my wife know early is there a fair chance at least one of the components is gonna need replaced? (obviously the bearings!) Or are they just a bitch that once apart are generally ok? Thanks for all the replies This rebuild is almost over...

as the title says! Have tried heat hitting crying swearing dont really know where to go now. I have given it to my mechanic and he cant shift it either! was gonna try soaking it in something and some freeze spray! Lock nuts were a bitch but came off but the sprocket carrier is impossible! Trust it to be the last job to be finished!!!! ah well

did a bit of a search and couldn't find any hard and fast yae or nae I know the answer for wider track is +2 a arms but as the rebuild is costing an awful lot already, i wondered whether having the tyres put on the fronts so the wheels are the wrong way round was something worth doing. Dont shoot me down, i am just asking i respect your opinions. Thanks

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah Cheers

what does he mean by milled and o ringed then?

Resurrection of an old post but i have a wee question. In a full gasket kit you get two big o rings, i have had my head machined do i need the o rings as well as the standard heaad gasket as i couldnt see how that worked?? just dont want to do it wrong!

dont know if your interested but a progress update; Brakes are off!! 2 came out using heat and a bar none came out with dogs or grips as nothing really to grip to so drilled them out i know!! so will have it all powdercoated then weld a bar on the stump that is whats left of the bolt and get it off when i get back (hopefully either thaat or drill it out and re-tap i guess. thanks for the help guess i should ask before next time, oh and the discs were solid even with penetrating spray left for a while i had to lever them off so i dont know if they are gonners!! if only life was as simple as the clymers depicts. 'undo bolts and remove disc' Yeah it was just like that!! ahahahah

thanks for the replies. i am a plumber so i am off to get the mapp gas and dogs (pump pliers) out and get on it. thanks again. oh and do you recommend getting bolts from the dealership or find some stainless ones, i might be green but what are graded bolts? cheers guys after reading the recent big argument fest i was a bit nervous about even posting but i know your all mega helpful so long as you dont behave in a questionable way!!

Right this is probably my own stupid fault and i guess also what happens if you leave stripping something till the night before it goes to powder coat!! The bolts that hold my brakes to my hubs were incredibly tight and beyond even a good quality allen key set. So i figured get the impact driver on it.... not much movement so i tried the air impact driver and success with the first three, they looked like they had been bathed in loctite!! but they were out. number 4 was a different story and has just rounded as have 3 of the bolts in the other hub!! what do you recommend seen as they are loctite'd up real good? drill them out and retap? any option seems like its gonna be a nightmare! ahh the joys

where can you buy delron?? Mental i suppose it would be relatively easy to fabricate.

thanks for the replies. I know i stupidly bought a SRD one off ebay before i found out about the upp one and the tm design thingy. Right i will order 2. Cheers

Just finishing off the rebuild and have got to chain rollers or im my case roller! I only took one off, but alot of the threads on here talk of 2? I have what would be the upper one out of the two and the rear slider bit. Do i need to order 2 or is one enough? and where do they mount if i need 2 Cheers Peter

guessed as much after a closer look last night! Thanks for looking.

i am currently completely rebuilding my shee and have ordered loads of stuff from the states (i'm in the uk) I ordered the all balls swingarm rebuild kit from ebay and it seems like the boy has sent the wrong one! it says on the pack its for a yfm350 warrior and i am guessing this is completely different, the bits certainly dont look right. Thing is, its a mega ball ache and the bloke hasnt got back to me yet, so i guess the joy is all mine! any of you that know can you just confirm the warrior one is wrong. Thanks

Ello Are front pads the same as the rears? just when the ones i ordered turned up they are all the same (ordered new pads all round) Cheers

Kinda adds to my nervousness, its one thing for you huys but if i spend $300+ on a stator timing plate and cdi and it gets to the uk and i have troubles i am really stuck. My current stator seems ok but the engine is completely stripped and with new pistons head milled and t5's to go on i figured adjustable tining plate and why not replace the cdi and stator... but now. So the pro circuit adj timing plate is better? and what about the RS CDI unit? Cheers

I have a clymer's and as you say I couldnt live without it!! Will aktive carbon reeds in the stock cages be much of a difference to the Vforce? I have ordered the Toomey T5's. As for the sprockets and brakes, the chain had quite bad wear in places and the rear sprocket was quite hooked. The rear brake was horrible and had some nasty grooves in it. I am only replacing the front pads and since the bike was completely stripped i thought i would ditch the whole flexi and hard pipe setup and go for the hel lines. And thanks for the explanation about the timing plate, think i might get one of the bundles with the cdi stator and plate.

HI all I know without pics etc it might be a very vague question but anyway. I am rebuilding my 2004 shee. Powdercoating frame and bits, so replacing bushings and bearings. Engine is having the head skimmed, new pistons, small end bearings, rings, gaskets, t5's, 2-1 pod filter, tors eliminator kit. hel brake lines, wavey discs, new pads, asv levers. Chain new sprockets. Main question is would i need an adjustable timing plate? is there any advantage? oh and what about the flywheel and cdi box they do as well? i have a stock swingarm and do anything from trails to blasting down the beach to belting round the field. I have read mixed things about ricky stator i know mostly good but as i am in the UK it would be a ball ache to receive something that was busted already. Thanks and sorry i dont post much i have spent weeks reading and learning. but as all i know is what i have learnt off here and the clymers manual i dont often feel i can help much.

aye if you could PM me a pic or two that would be great. How hard was the stripdown, and i guess you can get rebuild kits?? Thanks

Do you need to clear coat the calipers??

Not sure whether you are doing this but i felt like a right tit when my apprentice jumped on my banshee which has had the same problems for a couple of months and it started right up! he pulled the choke to half way and kicked it, no throttle no full choke no messing!! i had been kicking it to death every time i tried to start it, did the compression, jet clean, choke tube the lot drained the tank, and all along it was my gormlessness! you are probably doing it right but guess it was worth mentioning!