phxrider Posted January 24, 2007 Report Share Posted January 24, 2007 My Left wheel is toed in a little and can be noticable in the sand with my Dune Trackers. I only found a couple of topics on this, and I'm not sure what piece on the tie rod to adjust. I loosened the screws that hold the center piece (tube) in place. Now, do I adjust that piece or the tie rod ends? If I adjust the tie rod ends, do I pull the one off the spindle and just give it full turns in/out of the center tube till the alignment is set? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiftdT4R Posted January 25, 2007 Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 Definately look in Clymer, they have a section on this. Basically when I do mine, I unbolt the tie-rods, and then pull them with a 2 jaw puller. Once they are completely off the bike I make sure they are adjusted to the specs in clymer. 11.??? inches I think. One of the BJs and nuts is reverse threaded, so be careful with that. You then put them back on, and adjust from there. I use a measuring tape, and follow the instructions just like it says in Clymer for drawing the chalk on the wheell, etc. etc. Got mine perfect doing just that. I think you want anywhere from a 0 degree toe to a ?negative? toe, but I don't remember offhand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregbowler Posted January 25, 2007 Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 you want about 1/4" toe in max Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HotCarl Posted January 25, 2007 Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 there is no need to take the tierod ends off the bike. just loosen the the nuts on either end of the tierod and put a wrench on the flat and turn it until the correct toe is achived and then tighten the nuts back up. It would be a waste of time to take the ends off, because not all bikes are still true, so stock specs could be way off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phxrider Posted January 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 there is no need to take the tierod ends off the bike. just loosen the the nuts on either end of the tierod and put a wrench on the flat and turn it until the correct toe is achived and then tighten the nuts back up. It would be a waste of time to take the ends off, because not all bikes are still true, so stock specs could be way off. I was trying it this way cause it just seems easier, but when I go to turn, it pulls the tie rods with it. I was just scared to snap one of them. How much can they handle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastrthnu Posted January 25, 2007 Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 I was trying it this way cause it just seems easier, but when I go to turn, it pulls the tie rods with it. I was just scared to snap one of them. How much can they handle? straighten the handle bar.I take a straight edge like a 2x4 and square up on the back wheel and see which way the front tire needs to go. then loosen the castle nut on the end of the tie rod on the wheel till no threads are out then smack it loose with a hammer(with nut still on). take off the end, loosen the lock nut and turn the ball joint in or out how much you need. put it down and check it and make sure its right,. then repeat on the other side. hold the tie rod on one of the flat spots with channel locks or a wrench if it doesnt loosen easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiftdT4R Posted January 25, 2007 Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 there is no need to take the tierod ends off the bike. just loosen the the nuts on either end of the tierod and put a wrench on the flat and turn it until the correct toe is achived and then tighten the nuts back up. It would be a waste of time to take the ends off, because not all bikes are still true, so stock specs could be way off. Hmm, I hadnt thought of the bike not being true. Mine is I guess because I've always done it this way and never had a problem. Half the time the tie rod ends are soo damn rusted I would have no other way to loosen them but to pull them off and throw them in a vice or use 2 wrenches. It only takes a few extra minutes to do, and I think it makes it a helluva lot easier. You could always fine adjust when they are in place. The last one I did, the frame must have been a little tweaked because when I put them on, they still werent right. The trick I found is, thread the nut on a few turns but don't set the balljoint, that way you can measure and take it off really quick if need be. You don't have to go through the whole puller thing. My vote is still to take them completely off, I don't think I would have been able to loosen the rusted threads any other way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiftdT4R Posted January 25, 2007 Report Share Posted January 25, 2007 then loosen the castle nut on the end of the tie rod on the wheel till no threads are out then smack it loose with a hammer(with nut still on). Or you could just buy a 2 jaw puller for $10 and not have to worry about ruining the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.