chevy7398 Posted December 4, 2006 Report Posted December 4, 2006 ok well i just got it fired up after a complete tear down to repaint clean and basically service the whole bike, well long story short it ran great when i tore it down so i wasnt going to rebuild the top end yet just instal a cool head with some smaller domes, well i took the old head off and found a hole in the right hand piston and the head was beat all to h*ll on the right side, so i ended up redoing the top end as well, well now i have the bike far enough along that i could start it for the first time ( been down for a year) so i was pretty excited, only to find that the right side smokes like crazy, double checked everything carbs, ignitions ext, hold my hand behind the silencer and my hand gets covered in oil, so i suppose this is what caused that cylinder to go out the firtst time and that the crank seal is bad and that is what is causing the smoke, but before i go tearing the motor back out is there anything else it could be or a easy way to check and make sure that it is the crank seal and also what is the easyest way tho change them and how much do thay cost, any help would be great!! also is it very hard to do, i am sure i can do it myself but never done it before so i guess it will be a learning experence. Quote
dajogejr Posted December 4, 2006 Report Posted December 4, 2006 1. Not a big deal....there is a thread on here about splitting the cases, by BigRed350X, which is a good step by step. However....that paragraph hurt to read...how about a capital letter and the occasional period... :beer: Quote
lowriderb Posted December 5, 2006 Report Posted December 5, 2006 if your going to follow the thread dajogejr is talking about, read through the thread first to see the added comments from other people.. splitting the cases isnt hard to do, just be sure to have yamabond or threebond handy to put it back together.. and deffinitly a torque wrench.. Quote
chevy7398 Posted December 5, 2006 Author Report Posted December 5, 2006 if your going to follow the thread dajogejr is talking about, read through the thread first to see the added comments from other people.. splitting the cases isnt hard to do, just be sure to have yamabond or threebond handy to put it back together.. and deffinitly a torque wrench.. i found a complete set of seals for the bottom end at alba, whle its apart does onyone no of any breaing sets for it, also can i change the crank bearings myself or do i need to take it somewhere?? Quote
lowriderb Posted December 5, 2006 Report Posted December 5, 2006 crank bearings are a little tricky to change for the at home mechanic.. you would be best off bringing it somewhere to have them changed so the crank isnt damaged in anyway, also while its there have them true and weld the crank.. Quote
chevy7398 Posted December 5, 2006 Author Report Posted December 5, 2006 crank bearings are a little tricky to change for the at home mechanic.. you would be best off bringing it somewhere to have them changed so the crank isnt damaged in anyway, also while its there have them true and weld the crank.. how much does it cost to have it trued and welded and new bearings installed?? Quote
dajogejr Posted December 5, 2006 Report Posted December 5, 2006 i found a complete set of seals for the bottom end at alba, whle its apart does onyone no of any breaing sets for it, also can i change the crank bearings myself or do i need to take it somewhere?? Yeah...if you gotta ask, best left to the professionals. Here's what you need: Scroll to the bottom, left side of the page: http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/services.asp Quote
sheefreak Posted December 5, 2006 Report Posted December 5, 2006 If it is spraying oil like that you should see an obvious problem in the seal or between mating surfaces of the cases somewhere. I think for a true and weld, TZ bearing clutch side, and max load bearing stator side I paid $150 plus shipping to get the crank there. I would also think about a pancake bearing, and possibly a billet water impeller for insurance. Quote
chevy7398 Posted December 5, 2006 Author Report Posted December 5, 2006 If it is spraying oil like that you should see an obvious problem in the seal or between mating surfaces of the cases somewhere. I think for a true and weld, TZ bearing clutch side, and max load bearing stator side I paid $150 plus shipping to get the crank there. I would also think about a pancake bearing, and possibly a billet water impeller for insurance. where did you get it done at?? also what is a pancake bearing?? Quote
sheefreak Posted December 5, 2006 Report Posted December 5, 2006 I had it done at Patriot racing. Any reputable shop can take care of you though. You might check w/F.A.S.T. since he is a sponsor on this site. The pancake bearing replaces the clutch adjuster setup on the end of your mainshaft. Helps keep you from welding the ball to the pushrod. For $45 bucks, it is worth never having to find out what it is like fixing it if they did. You can get these through any reputable builder as well. Quote
FASTOYS Posted December 7, 2006 Report Posted December 7, 2006 where did you get it done at?? also what is a pancake bearing?? This is a pancake bearing: http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=110 Quote
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