Satsol67 Posted November 13, 2006 Report Posted November 13, 2006 Is there a "how to" for modding the timming plate? I have a drill press and I would like to fix it so i can get the +4 from the stock one. How can I tell when its at +4? If I just made the same size holes right next to the ones where the plate bolts on would that be close to +4? Thanks Ron Quote
dajogejr Posted November 13, 2006 Report Posted November 13, 2006 Gaging by how my timing plate is....I'd say this. If you machine 4mm off each hole, counterclockwise to their location now....that's about as close as you're gonna get it. Each degree was roughly 1mm on the plate adjustment...give or take. When I say counterclockwise, I mean if you're looking at it as mounted on the bike, you need the plate to move clockwise to advance the timing, so...the holes will have to be elongated counterclockwise.... I hope that makes sense. If anyone else has better measurements, please pipe in!! Quote
06BansheeSE Posted November 13, 2006 Report Posted November 13, 2006 Is there a "how to" for modding the timming plate? I have a drill press and I would like to fix it so i can get the +4 from the stock one. How can I tell when its at +4? If I just made the same size holes right next to the ones where the plate bolts on would that be close to +4? Thanks Ron Hey, Blak banshee just did the same exact mod you are talking about. I'm sure he can tell you exactly what to do. Quote
Satsol67 Posted November 13, 2006 Author Report Posted November 13, 2006 Gaging by how my timing plate is....I'd say this. If you machine 4mm off each hole, counterclockwise to their location now....that's about as close as you're gonna get it. Each degree was roughly 1mm on the plate adjustment...give or take. When I say counterclockwise, I mean if you're looking at it as mounted on the bike, you need the plate to move clockwise to advance the timing, so...the holes will have to be elongated counterclockwise.... I hope that makes sense. If anyone else has better measurements, please pipe in!! Yes I understand what your getting at. So around 4mm. 1mm for each degree. Thank you Quote
badassbanshee479 Posted November 14, 2006 Report Posted November 14, 2006 I went with the 1mm for 1 degree on my stock plate off my play bike and it works great! it did help that my drag bike has an aftermarket plate in it so I could look at that while I cut the stocker Quote
Satsol67 Posted November 14, 2006 Author Report Posted November 14, 2006 I ordered the flywheel puller tonight so when i get it i will give it a shot. Thanks for the help guys Quote
cam2 Posted November 14, 2006 Report Posted November 14, 2006 here's a link with some good info. go to Q#56 for info on modifying your stator plate. by the way, dajogejr and badassbanshee479 knew what they were talking about. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html Quote
dajogejr Posted November 14, 2006 Report Posted November 14, 2006 I ordered the flywheel puller tonight so when i get it i will give it a shot. Thanks for the help guys That was gonna be my next tip. Use some WD40 or other penetrating oil to thread that puller in. You don't want to only grab 2 or 3 threads on that flywheel, and they're usually a little rusted. Pop it for a second or so with an air impact, and it'll pop right off....no worries. Good luck!! Quote
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