VITO'S 10mm stroker crank :) or:(

[Guest WICKED ATV]

hey i was flipping through my dirtwheels mag and noticed that vito has a 10mm stroker crank

for like 679.00. I believe its a hot rods crank that is trued and welded. would this be a good buy for a broke texas boy trying to build a asphalt cheetah cub.

[Big Blue]

If you are broke no it wont be a good buy, you will need to have the cases trenched, buy straight cut gears, lockup and the list goes on. A 4mm cub would be a more cost efficient deal.

[[email protected]]

thats the same crap i have ........ i mean CRANK

[locogato11283]

If you are broke no it wont be a good buy, you will need to have the cases trenched, buy straight cut gears, lockup and the list goes on. A 4mm cub would be a more cost efficient deal.

i agree. for the most cost effective setup go with the 4mm cub...

[lowriderb]

if youve got the money to spend i would look to get a billet crank.. as well as supporting parts to make the 10mm run..

 

billet crank (10mm) about 850-900 (estimate)

10mm cubs 1100 (long rod)

carbs 500 (rouge estimate)

pipes 560

trench work 550

cub domes 75 (cool head/noss machine)

billet basket with straight cut gears 620

override trans 375 (1-5)

lock up 320

assembly 175 (estimate)

 

 

properly set up you should run harder out of the hole and pull through faster than the 4mm's.. another thought to add to it would be to possibly go with a little bigger stroke like a 14mm cub (which run very hard)

 

the only difference would be the cost of the crank (about 1600), case work (1100), and domes cut for the stroke..

 

going bigger past that would only cost the difference would be the crank (1800 or so), cylinders (2900-3600 depending), billet 2nd gear 330 (at least), bigger carbs would be needed (aprox. 700), pipes (about 600)..

 

 

 

if your on an extreme budget and still want cubs, you could do a 4mm cub and just get carbs, pipes, override, billet basket, lockup ect..

[locogato11283]

if youve got the money to spend i would look to get a billet crank.. as well as supporting parts to make the 10mm run..

 

billet crank (10mm) about 850-900 (estimate)

10mm cubs 1100 (long rod)

carbs 500 (rouge estimate)

pipes 560

trench work 550

cub domes 75 (cool head/noss machine)

billet basket with straight cut gears 620

override trans 375 (1-5)

lock up 320

assembly 175 (estimate)

 

properly set up you should run harder out of the hole and pull through faster than the 4mm's.. another thought to add to it would be to possibly go with a little bigger stroke like a 14mm cub (which run very hard)

 

 

where you get your parts from? they are raping you!! 39mm pwk for a 10mm cub run about 350 almost anywhere..trench work thru dave moore cost me 100 bucks. domes should cost no more than 60 bucks anywehre. billet baskets are 150 and straight cuts run about 300. i have heard from almost everyone i talk to that the 14mm cubs are not performing anywhere near the 14mm cheetahs because of the intake size mainly. the cutoff for the best cub performance has been the 10mm. anymore stroke than that and everyone i have talked to or read about recommends the PV cheetahs. there is no point in building a 7mm cub when you can build a 10mm for the same price, which rules that out. by far the best bang for the buck is the 4mm setup...

[lowriderb]

the basket and gears i bought straight from hinson..which was the newer style with the springs not cushions and that was shipped..

http://www.hinsonracing.com/store/product.html?prod_id=20

 

depending on the carbs you buy will cost more.. for the next set of carbs im buying i will be going with lectrons, directly from lectron set up for alcohol..

http://www.lectronfuelsystems.com/

 

the cranks are priced from twister..

http://www.twistercrankshaft.com/cranks.htm

 

 

case work is an average of different places..

 

trans work is an average of different places..

 

assembly is an average of different places..

 

 

 

 

the 14mm cub that my friend built went some 3.80's without the bottle (he is 135lbs), as well was spinning alot of the track from too long of a swing arm (+11) with a wheelie bar.. the bike weighed about 255lbs (suspended chassis). the only reason he took the top end off (which i listed for sale, for what he told me to list it for) was because he is getting a different top end..

 

 

 

 

and at the very beginning of the post i said "if youve got the money to spend" meaning if your going to pay to go bigger here is what your looking at..

[Guest WICKED ATV]

Loco Gato you are right Ive seen most places advertising trench work for about 100.00 K&T, RDZ, TDR. Im building this thing slowly. Im in no hurry. ive got alot of stuff already. Billet head i just need the right domes got 71mm right now CPI out of frames and other parts.Thats how someone that does not make alot of money builds something nice lol. or i could put about half of it on a credit card. I do appreciate all of your info .

 

 

 

 

 

I maybe the police but i still like to haul ass lol

[dajogejr]

I agree...best bang for the buck is the 4 mil.

But a 7 mil is a waste when a 10's the same cost.

 

Once you get a lockup and override tranny...any decent aftermarket basket will be just fine.

Hinson makes a great basket, no doubt...but you can save money and spend it elsewhere...

[[email protected]]

i run hinson in my 10milli with the lockup , clutch is SUPERB !

[lonestar]

For 697.00 I'd seriously look at the bearings. Who trued & welded it? Are the rods, hot rods? For that price something wrong. You don't want to nickel dime the crank. Go with crankworks or twister. Watch what you buy. Someone is making spin-offs that look like wiseco but are junk. Beware