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Posted

when ever i go to the sand dunes i go though a set of barnet clutch it could be a new clutch in the morning and by the end of the night it would be fried. So i bought a lock out clutch system will that help any and what does it do thanks for the help

Posted

the lock out clutchs prevent slippage , they lock up at a certain rpm if im not mistaken and prevent clutch slippage , providing you with really hard launches etc.

 

if your clutch isnt adjusted correctly you will burn a clutch fast no matter what.

Posted

All the lockup clutch systems I have seen have a set of counterweights on them that apply more more pressure as the RPM increases. If you are putting a brand new clutch in, riding it at the dunes and burning it up in a day, that's actually not that hard to believe. You need to break-in a new clutch otherwise you will likely overheat the plates and steels right away and it just goes downhill from there. My guess is that this is where your problem lies. If you're running good aftermarket springs/plates/steels (Barnett would be fine in my book), you should be able to put down some pretty serious power before needing a lockup clutch system. Since you've already popped for the lockup system you might as well put it on, but make sure to break it in, or you'll be broken down in no time at all... again.

Posted

All the lockup clutch systems I have seen have a set of counterweights on them that apply more more pressure as the RPM increases. If you are putting a brand new clutch in, riding it at the dunes and burning it up in a day, that's actually not that hard to believe. You need to break-in a new clutch otherwise you will likely overheat the plates and steels right away and it just goes downhill from there. My guess is that this is where your problem lies. If you're running good aftermarket springs/plates/steels (Barnett would be fine in my book), you should be able to put down some pretty serious power before needing a lockup clutch system. Since you've already popped for the lockup system you might as well put it on, but make sure to break it in, or you'll be broken down in no time at all... again.

How exactically do you "break in" a clutch? :noexpression:

I thought that they were good to go as soon as you put em in.

Posted

First make sure that you have a little free play at your clutch lever.

Then look at the other end of the clutch cable and make sure your clutch arm pointer aligns with the arrow on the case. Push on it with your thumb or lightly pull on the clutch to take up the spring slack on the arm for an accurate assesment.

 

If it is not aligned properly then loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster screw in the center of the pressure plate to align it and then tighten the locknut. Other than that I always scuff my steels real good on a rough concrete surface on both sides and then clean them before installing.

If you do all of that your clutch should last a long time.

Posted

How exactically do you "break in" a clutch? :noexpression:

I thought that they were good to go as soon as you put em in.

 

I suppose banshee04le's method would work... Essentially, you want to take it easy on the clutch for the first bit after installing it. If you don't the fibers on the friction plates can "glass over", essentially burn and glaze. In addition you can hot spot the steels as well. This is what causes your clutch to slip. Once you start a clutch "hot spotting" you're basically screwed. You could almost think of it like seating a new set of rings. If you take off and start ripping on a brand new set of rings, good luck getting them to seat. Same theory on the clutch. Also, most people will soak their plates in oil overnight before installing them. Believe me, you do need to break in clutches. I've put several clutches in tow rigs, only to have my stupid friends drive them a half an hour and then hitch up to a loaded stock trailer. A month and half later, they're back saying the clutch seems to be slipping, same principle on the banshee. So, short story, take it easy on the new clutch, heat cycle it (slowly bring it up to operating temp, nicely) before jumping it hard. :flamewar:

Posted

I have run the same clutch in my bike for the last 5 months with absolutely no problems. Haven't even had to adjust it. I pretty much only ride in sand, and I have a 4mil that puts out pretty decent power. If you smoke a clutch in one day you are doing something really wrong with your clutch. No offense. If you are having to feather your clutch all the time to get out of tricky spots or climb hills it might be a good idea to gear down a little to give your bike a little more power so you're not using the clutch so much. I abuse the hell out of mine and haven't had any problems with it.

 

I run fiber plates from the FZR1000 clutch, steel plates from Tusk, and 6 HD springs from the tusk kit. I have noticed a little slippage when I'm drag racing, but other than that it does great for just general duning. I will be going to a lockup kit during my next upgrade though since I'm doing a litlte more drag racing.

 

Make sure you are pre-soaking your fiber plates at least 2-6 hrs before you install them. That is the absolute minimum I would soak them. I usually shoot for 24 hrs before I install them. Just a little quirk I have.

 

I have never had to "break in" a clutch, I soak the fibers for a while, intall everything, adjust it, and romp on it the same as I would any other time. Hasn't failed me yet.

Posted

I have run the same clutch in my bike for the last 5 months with absolutely no problems. Haven't even had to adjust it. I pretty much only ride in sand, and I have a 4mil that puts out pretty decent power. If you smoke a clutch in one day you are doing something really wrong with your clutch. No offense. If you are having to feather your clutch all the time to get out of tricky spots or climb hills it might be a good idea to gear down a little to give your bike a little more power so you're not using the clutch so much. I abuse the hell out of mine and haven't had any problems with it.

 

I run fiber plates from the FZR1000 clutch, steel plates from Tusk, and 6 HD springs from the tusk kit. I have noticed a little slippage when I'm drag racing, but other than that it does great for just general duning. I will be going to a lockup kit during my next upgrade though since I'm doing a litlte more drag racing.

 

Make sure you are pre-soaking your fiber plates at least 2-6 hrs before you install them. That is the absolute minimum I would soak them. I usually shoot for 24 hrs before I install them. Just a little quirk I have.

 

I have never had to "break in" a clutch, I soak the fibers for a while, intall everything, adjust it, and romp on it the same as I would any other time. Hasn't failed me yet.

 

 

just like bigred350x i've used the same clutch for about 7months and still works just as good as when i bought it. but then again i dont have a 4mil. :notworthy:

Posted

cool thanks guys ive been m i a. I never knew you had to break in a clutch. i do skuff the steels and presoak the fibers i use klots oil and have the tommy heavy dutty springs in

Posted

cool thanks guys ive been m i a. I never knew you had to break in a clutch. i do skuff the steels and presoak the fibers i use klots oil and have the tommy heavy dutty springs in

well took the side cover off and found out that my

clutch basket shattered SWEAT easy fix i think got it

all taken apart and had an extra clutch system laying

around thankgod but what im wondering is what could

make that happen i got a lock out clutch or could it be

just the ariginal basket was starting to get weak. and also

should i split the cases before i put it back together i dont know

if anything can get in the cases or not. Thanks for the help

Posted

well took the side cover off and found out that my

clutch basket shattered SWEAT easy fix i think got it

all taken apart and had an extra clutch system laying

around thankgod but what im wondering is what could

make that happen i got a lock out clutch or could it be

just the ariginal basket was starting to get weak. and also

should i split the cases before i put it back together i dont know

if anything can get in the cases or not. Thanks for the help

 

With something that catastrophic I would def. split the cases. Its possible you got some small fragmets in there hiding that could come back to ruin your day again. I've never seen a stock basket shatter per se but I've seen them crack and had arms break off. Go to a billet one... Get some straight-cut gears while you are in there too...

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