SvrdRam Posted February 8, 2006 Report Posted February 8, 2006 i jus picked up my second banshee......been riding 4 strokers for acouple years now and come across a blown and wrecked shee......rebuilt the frame and some other mods.....but been outta 2 strokes for some time now and i'm lost with motor mods.......any help would be greatfull... Quote
badassbanshee479 Posted February 8, 2006 Report Posted February 8, 2006 Reeds timing plate cool head, pipes, bigger carbs porting stroker kit, cub cylinders the list goes on and on.... kind of need more info like where you will be riding how much you want to spend etc..... kind of a broad question Quote
FIRST BANSHEE Posted February 8, 2006 Report Posted February 8, 2006 Best bang for the buck, pipes and porting. Quote
SvrdRam Posted February 8, 2006 Author Report Posted February 8, 2006 (edited) well i was already planing on going with a 4mm stroker......agressive trail/dune port...65mm bore........but im lost with pipes......plan on runin the dunes 75% of the time.....and also heard alot of people at engine shops sayin that stock carbs will work fine planed on spending around 2000....maybe up to but no more then 2500..... Edited February 8, 2006 by SvrdRam Quote
lowriderb Posted February 8, 2006 Report Posted February 8, 2006 well i was already planing on going with a 4mm stroker......agressive trail/dune port...65mm bore........but im lost with pipes......plan on runin the dunes 75% of the time.....and also heard alot of people at engine shops sayin that stock carbs will work fine planed on spending around 2000....maybe up to but no more then 2500..... 470694[/snapback] the stock carbs will starve that motor, if you run it with the stock carbs then switch to say a set of 34mm carbs your going to notice a huge gain... for the budget you should be able to get a 4mm cub set up and some carbs and possibly a set of pipes, depending on how you wheel and deal.. alot of people with the cub cylinders have had good luck with the bigger carbs.. my 4mm cub is going to be set up with a set of mikuni 38's bored to 39.5's, i ran the 38's on my 4mm stock cylinder as well with no problems.. with the same cpi out of frames... for duning i would look at some shearer or cpi inframes looking to what you can get.. Quote
Wallrat Posted February 8, 2006 Report Posted February 8, 2006 (edited) Toomey T-5's are a very good all-around pipe that would be a pretty safe bet for anyone. There's other pipes out there that'll make more power, but the t5's are the most versatile/easy to ride. Pick up a wiseco H129 crank (+4 stroke, +5 longrod), some wiseco 795 series pistons, v force 3 reeds, cool head w/ stroker domes, billet water pump impeller, good strong clutch + heavy duty springs (6 or em, and no barnett crap), adjustable timing plate, 200w stator if u like riding at night alot, clamp on k&n's, porting, maybe a better radiator or at least some inline coolers and engine ice, and I'd definately recommend new carbs. 35pwk's would be a good choice. The stock carbs are pretty shitty and tend to stick if u ever hit a puddle. You could technically run em but I think its worth changing em out. Where u gonna be riding at? Do you wanna run race or pump gas? Do you want a general duner or a semi-drag bike? Edited February 8, 2006 by Wallrat Quote
SvrdRam Posted February 9, 2006 Author Report Posted February 9, 2006 lookin for a fun to ride bike.....already got a ltz400 bored to a 440 with pipe , hot cams , port work which is my main bike.....lookin for a good duner that will kick some ass in some drags........but has to some what rideable on trails....(cuz my girl sold her quad.....she now has to ride the 400 if we go riding) cough cough..... .....plan on atleast a 50/50 race mix already.........as far as where im riding.....im out in michigan and all we got out here is Silver Lake and Bull Gap.... Quote
Wallrat Posted February 9, 2006 Report Posted February 9, 2006 M'kay well I have no idea what elevation that is but you could prolly run 19 or 20cc domes in the head, advance the timing 4 degrees and still be okay for 50/50. Pretty much ur not gonna wanna go longer than a +4 swingarm. Even then those things kinda ride like a tank but they're still dune-able. Consequently you'd prolly be better off sticking with stock cylinders for now. You could definately run cheetah cubs, but it might be a bit of a handful. Quote
odaen Posted February 9, 2006 Report Posted February 9, 2006 yeah, kinda agree with wallrat. dune ported stock cylinders with an H129 will perform very well in the sand and on the trails. try to stick to a +4 or shorter swingarm. Quote
SvrdRam Posted February 9, 2006 Author Report Posted February 9, 2006 well thats good to hear....considering i spent the last week buildin a +4 swinger.... .....atleast i didnt screw that part up......as the shee sits right now its pretty stripped out.....no light and air box....i got the chaissi rollin right now.....runnin stock a-arms with works triple rate res shocks up front(plannin on 1 up 2 out arms later on in the year)....rear shock was revalved by MCR suspensions here in michigan with the +4 swing arm.........i think that i have a good base to work from.....use to have a 514 cheetah cyclinder motor back in the day.....im always go overkill....but im tryin not to this time..........this is gonna be a fun budget banshee which is y i need so help... Quote
lowriderb Posted February 10, 2006 Report Posted February 10, 2006 well personally i wouldnt build a motor to suit the swing arm/chassis.. i would build the chassis around the motor.. a 4mm stock cylinder will still be a hard runner.. or if staying with the stock cylidners you can look for a 7mm stock cylinder.. that would be a hard runner as well.. then later youd already have a bottom end ready to go and just swap out cylinder to one of the mono set ups that are out if you wanted even more power.. Quote
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