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Posted

Ok i know there probley tons of fourms about this but i want to make completly sure im getting this right. I have a 96 shee with k&ns to the carbs no air box 200watt stator with 200 flywheel toomey t5s. I ride on the oregon coast mostly florence. I saw that dyno jets kit is 49.99 but it does not come in stages Its just what it is. FMF and Moose has a stage 3 kit for 84.99. are they the same. whats the best and cheapest kit for my applacation. Thx guys im new to the intire 2 stroke banshee world. (only owned 4 strokes.

Posted

Okay, so what exactly do these kits consist of? Is the Dynojet kit (they call it a "Power Kit or something right), new needles and a few spattering a jet sizes? I assume the FMF kit must be about the same, maybe a few more jet sizes and a fancy "go fast" name. Unless I'm mistaken these are just collections of parts that you can buy individually, boxed up, overpriced and with a fancy name slapped on them. Many people will run the stock needles in the carbs (they install in the bottom of the carb slide, since you said you're new), but some including myself, upgrade the needles for a different length/profile. Dynojet makes needles Vitos etc. And jets are a dime a dozen, okay like $3 a piece or so for mains. I don't personally see the need for these overpriced kits, and chances are they may not even have the sizes (jets) you need. Maybe I'm wrong though...

Posted

Naw he's right. Jetting kits are a joke. Just order your jets individually thru a dealer, sudco, or whatever. Looked like the only engine mods u have are a k&n and t5's. Did you get the 200w stator with the adjustable timing plate? What kinda advance are u running? If you tell us ur elevation and temperature we could even tell u what jets to get.

Posted

can anyone from oregon help me out with the elev. and temp at florance im not completly sure. Well what im going to do tonight is see what jets i have in it. i got told 300 or 320 jets are the best but ? Also could you fill me in why the adjustable timing plate is good. I dont have it is there a need for it? or will everything work better?

Posted

From what I can find Florence, Oregon is at 23 feet (basically at sea level). Average high temperatures range from mid 50's in the winter to lower 70's in the summer. Average lows are from mid 30's in the winter to low 50's in the summer.

Posted

The whole "stage 1-3" is a gimmick to sell cheep parts for 5 times what they are worth. Most have bought them to find out that it is just a couple jets and needles, the only advantage is they come with a free Dyno run coupon. I think I have 3 in my tool box if you need one (got the jet kits on ebay for $7). Just get the jets you need. The biggest jet that comes in the Dyno kit is 280 if I remember right. And with your mods I

Posted

Advanced timing is a very good (and cheap) mod that will give u a couple HP and more oomph all across the powerband. You should probably get some 330's, 320's, and 310's. Start with the 330's and if it runs like shit go down to the next size etc etc...

Posted

6 on 1, half a dozen the other... I run the Dynojet needles and like them, others don't and say they suck. I personally feel they offer me more adjustment than the stock needles, but you should be able to adjust very close using the stock needles also, so...?

Posted
Put some 320 mains in, 30 pilots, and raise the needle one clip.  That should run you about $12 and 20 minutes to do it.

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My experience with the T5's is that you won't want a pilot that big. I went to a 27.5 with 1.75 turns out on the air screw. But later, I didn't feel like the throttle response was what it should be, dropped back to the stock, 25, pilot at .5 turn on the air screws, and was instantly better by far. I have this setup for running at Horsfall (Coos Bay/North Bend) so elevation and temps will be almost identical. I think you would be highly disappointed with the 30 pilot. The main jetting should be pretty close though. I run 340's, but in the lower 300's should be the ticket for you, or close to it. :cheers:

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