Timing advance

[fast500#12]

$35 from rickystator

[1.6i]

hey, is there a step by step right up,(article) on installing a timing plate; here on HQ?

 

a shop quoted me around 2hours labor to install a plate, sound right? Should i pay or should i do it myself?

[biggun6ss]

Do waste your money paying a shop to do the job. Took me about 30 min to do mine. Wouldnt have took that long but whoever made the new timing plate didnt tap one of the small bolt holes all the way through. Had to go buy a tap so I could get the bolt in. You will need to get a flywheel puller, $15 and can get them at a dealership. Use an impact to get the nut off that holds on the flywheel. Its real easy.

[2003LimitedBanshee]

You can do it yourself if you have access to some fairly basic tools. If you have access to an air compressor and some air tools it will be much more possible.

 

Basic Outline:

 

1) Remove left footpeg.

2) Remove left side cover

3) Use Yamaha flywheel puller to remove flywheel (I chose to use a 3/8" impact wrench, on a low setting to remove). Also, make sure and check the clearance between lobe on flywheel and pickup (mounted lower right-hand side) so that you can set proper clearance when re-installing using feeler gauges.

4) Use #3 Phillips screwdriver to remove stator and stock timing plate.

5) Next you'll most likely need to sand/grind a small amount of material from each "ear" of the new plate so that it will fit right in (make small adjustments and test fit often)

6) Reinstall using new adjustable timing plate, make sure to attach all wire fasteners and stator. Also reinstall pickup loosely so that you can make final adjustments to the air gap after installing the flywheel.

7) Set timing at selected amount of advance and tighten mounting screws.

8) Reinstall flywheel (this is probably the hardest part unless you have the obscure flywheel holding tool shown in the Clymers), I believe it torques to 59 ft-lbs. Make sure you do not knock the Woodruff (sp?) key loose at any point... the flywheel is keyed and will install easily if all is lined up. As backwoods, ghetto as it sounds I used the #3 Phillips and the balancing marks drilled into the flywheel to brace between the flywheel and the frame. Make sure you can hold the screwdriver in place or you can definitely do some damage. Essentially you use the screwdriver as a wedge so that the flywheel will load against the screwdriver as the flywheel tries to rotate under the load of the torque wrench. The butt of the screwdriver handle will load against the frame in the "U" area close to where the swinger bolts on. Or if you have a real strong friend who can hold a smooth flywheel against 59 ft-lbs (but the tool shown in the Clymers would be nice to find, haven't yet though )

9) Set the air gap between the flywheel lobe and the pickup. Ricky Stator says to go as tight as possible but not tighter than .020". I would set it back to the the measurement you got on disassembly (mine was .032").

10) At this point I like to fire the back just to make sure all is well.

11) Reassemble remaining side cover, footpeg etc.

 

Think I got it all, but I'm sure someone will set me straight if not.

[1.6i]

hey thanks guys, ima take your guy's advice..

[2003LimitedBanshee]

Just thought I would post a little tidbit of info regarding the infamous flywheel holding tool I had been looking for. I found one that is a combo flywheel holder/clutch tool at a dealership on the Oregon coast. Unfortunately, I found it because I puked a stator on a dune trip and had to tear the bike down and replace the stator in the campground. Had to go to the dealership to get a flywheel puller (didn't bring mine) and they had the tool for holding the flywheel. It's made by Pro Motion and worked like a champ, plus will come in handy once I have to do a clutch after getting the porting done.