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How to change my reed valves?


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Ok, well im pretty new to the banshee, and my banshee wasnt running right, so i took it out the sandhills and asked a guy that works on them if he could maybe tell me whats a matter w/ it, so he rode it and told me that the reeds on the left side felt like they were cracked and he told me to bring it to his shop. Well me being 16 and not having a job this summer due to an injury I really dont have the money to take it to him. So this guy of off here sent me a old set of reed valves of off his banshee(stock). I was wanting to just replace the left side w/ the stock ones to make sure that is what is wrong with it. So I guess I am just changing the reeds. Sorry for the long story, sometimes it tends to help people out.

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Take the clamps off of the carbs at the airbox and at the intake and pull the carbs off. The take the allen head screws out of the intake. Pull the reed cages out of the intake and you can tell if they're cracked/damaged, etc. It should be self explanatory from there..........if not let us know.

 

 

Welcome :cheers: to THE hq.

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Well, the simplest way is to

 

1) remove airbox, (im assumnig you still have this)

2) loosten carb clamps (the ones clamping the carbs to the carb boots)

3) carefully loosten the carbs from their boots (twisting, WD 40, anything to get them out without damaging anything)

4) Support the carbs away from the intake ( so you can get to the reeds without trouble) ie- an assistant, or string to hold the carbs away from the intake. You COULD remove them but its too much trouble.

5) There are 4 bolts on each boot fastening them to the cylinders. Loosten them in a criss-cross pattern.

6) now the intake should come appart in this order.

A) Boots with Crossover tube

b ) Reed Pyramid Cage

C) Gasket

7) Now that you have the Pyramid (thay are shaped like a pyramid arent they?) Valves in hand. There are two METAL flaps that LIMIT how far the PLASTIC petals can open. Two bolts fasten each Metal flap.

8) When the bolts are removed the PLASTIC and METAL peices will come off.

9) You replace the plastic petals.

10) MAKE SURE YOU GET THE 4 BOLTS that fasten the petals and metal flaps tight! And on the correct way! You DO NOT want those bolts going in your cylinders!

11) Repeat on other Valve if desired

12) Assemble

A) Gaskets on cylinders

b ) Reed cages

C) Boots

D) 4 bolts 8 TOTAL on the boots Tighten in criss cross pattern (just get em good and tight, But dont strip em LOL

E) Carbs & Clamps

F) Airbox (I yanked mine off the day i bought my shee so i cant give you detailed instructions on how to remove/install the airbox

13) Voila! Done

 

Hope that helps

 

If anyone sees that i missed something add to it

 

Later

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Well, the simplest way is to

 

1) remove airbox, (im assumnig you still have this)

2) loosten carb clamps (the ones clamping the carbs to the carb boots)

3) carefully loosten the carbs from their boots (twisting, WD 40, anything to get them out without damaging anything)

4) Support the carbs away from the intake ( so you can get to the reeds without trouble) ie- an assistant, or string to hold the carbs away from the intake. You COULD remove them but its too much trouble.

5) There are 4 bolts on each boot fastening them to the cylinders. Loosten them in a criss-cross pattern.

6) now the intake should come appart in this order.

A) Boots with Crossover tube

b ) Reed Pyramid Cage

C) Gasket

7) Now that you have the Pyramid (thay are shaped like a pyramid arent they?) Valves in hand. There are two METAL flaps that LIMIT how far the PLASTIC petals can open. Two bolts fasten each Metal flap.

8) When the bolts are removed the PLASTIC and METAL peices will come off.

9) You replace the plastic petals.

10) MAKE SURE YOU GET THE 4 BOLTS that fasten the petals and metal flaps tight! And on the correct way! You DO NOT want those bolts going in your cylinders!

11) Repeat on other Valve if desired

12) Assemble

A) Gaskets on cylinders

b ) Reed cages

C) Boots

D) 4 bolts 8 TOTAL on the boots Tighten in criss cross pattern (just get em good and tight, But dont strip em LOL

E) Carbs & Clamps

F) Airbox (I yanked mine off the day i bought my shee so i cant give you detailed instructions on how to remove/install the airbox

13) Voila! Done

 

Hope that helps

 

If anyone sees that i missed something add to it

 

Later

400803[/snapback]

 

Damn.........Pretty sure you didn't miss nothin' :clap:

 

Good explanation man :headbang:

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Ok, thanks alot guys,I just moved and my shee is still were I used to live. So Im gonna get my brother to pick it up and bring it to my new home then Im gonna strip it down in my garage(before my dad gets home).Ill tell yall the outcome and come back to yall if I have any ?'s.

 

Thanks alot

Casey

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You originally asked where you could find instructions on how to tear down your shee. This site as you can see is very helpful, but you should really invest the money and buy a Klymer's manual. They can pretty much tell you how to tear down your entire machine, and if you have anything that you don't understand, come here and ask questions.

 

Just a thought.................... :cheers:

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Thanks a bunch guys...the reeds didnt even looked damaged just a little dirty..so im doubting that was the problem..Ya prob gonna have to make a top end change. :cry: Cant do a compression check right now though or even ride it cuz i dont have a kick start. I could pull start it but my bro isnt here right now. The banshee life isnt so great at the moment. bangheadbangheadbanghead

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so he rode it and told me that the reeds on the left side felt like they were cracked and he told me to bring it to his shop.

400789[/snapback]

:huh: can you really tell that by taking it for one ride? sounds like he was trying to sucker you into his shop for some bucks!! :evil:

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