fast87 Posted July 4, 2005 Report Posted July 4, 2005 (edited) so today i will be putting her together after about 4 montha of downtime, and 650.00 later i have everything i need(new jugs, cool head, etc...) so here they are: How much is the air gap supposed to be for the flywheel and pickup coil?? How many ft. lbs do i torque my flywheel nut? how many ft. lbs for my cylinder and head studs?(i think 20) also torque specs for my wheels, i usually go as tight as i can get em, and have always wondered what "correct" is?...Thanks guys and as the day goes on i'm sure i'll have a few more questions, i would go right now and buy a manual but they need to be ordered from the nearest bike shop, i'm pretty much broke, and i have this site!! l , Thanks again and any help is much appreciated ~Mark~ Edited July 4, 2005 by fast87 Quote
Rare Scottish Tree Badger Posted July 4, 2005 Report Posted July 4, 2005 How much is the air gap supposed to be for the flywheel and pickup coil?? How many ft. lbs do i torque my flywheel nut? how many ft. lbs for my cylinder and head studs?(i think 20) also torque specs for my wheels 388538[/snapback] .018 59 lb/ ft 20 lb/ ft 32 lb/ ft Rare. Quote
fast87 Posted July 4, 2005 Author Report Posted July 4, 2005 Thanks rare, i got a couple more for ya, how much play is there supposed to be in the rods?? right where they connect to the crank, between the rod and shim, or the shim and crank..i have a feeler guage so i can check it... Also my stator cover gasket is junk(i use a cascade aluminum stator cover if it matters), and since there is no real pressure in that area, can i just use a bead of good silicone around it?? Thanks ~Mark~ Quote
9603banshee Posted July 4, 2005 Report Posted July 4, 2005 yes, a good bead of silicone will work for that cover Quote
Rare Scottish Tree Badger Posted July 4, 2005 Report Posted July 4, 2005 how much play is there supposed to be in the rods?? right where they connect to the crank, between the rod and shim, or the shim and crank..i have a feeler guage so i can check it... 388559[/snapback] Connecting rod side clearance: 0.25 - 0.75 mm ... (0.0098 - 0.0295 in.). I'm just taking mine apart and I have about 6mm clearance! Rare. Quote
fast87 Posted July 4, 2005 Author Report Posted July 4, 2005 i think your measurement conversion is not right....because .254mm equals .010", basically one side has .010" and one has .009", will that me ok?? it seems to be in good shape, unported jugs, etc.. so it should last without a true and weld, you think so?? plus that would take another 100 bucks, and at least 2 weeks which i really don't have, this has gotta be ready for the en dof the month, DUNEFEST!!! ~Mark~ Quote
Rare Scottish Tree Badger Posted July 4, 2005 Report Posted July 4, 2005 That is the right conversion. (Copied from the Clymer) .0098 is only a Scottish Highland Midge's Ballsack-hair off ten thou anyway. ... 0.0002" I measured one. ... Fiesty wee chap! Basically the tollerence is .010" - .030", so you're good to go with what you've got there. Rare. Quote
fast87 Posted July 4, 2005 Author Report Posted July 4, 2005 lol, sorry about that man i'm in a a rush so i wasn;t thinking correctly, it's good to know mine is the least amount of slop you can have, sweet!!! i've done a lot of WOT logging road riidng, along with overheating at the dunes from drag racing all day long , anyway thanks for the specs, they'll come in very handy ~Mark~ Quote
fast87 Posted July 4, 2005 Author Report Posted July 4, 2005 ok, now that i know i need a new flywheel(mine's bent, anyone got one??? very quick i pay with paypal), what is the toque spec for the big clutch basket nut?? also does it say how to adjust the threaded rod witht he nut at the end?? i'm gonna do it so the 2 arrows line up, if there is more to it then plz tell me, Thanks for the answers, i know it's asking a lot but these should be almost if nott he last questions ~Mark~ Quote
Rare Scottish Tree Badger Posted July 4, 2005 Report Posted July 4, 2005 Your torque is 66 lb/ ft. Yeah, you're doing it right. They should line up when you put pressure against the clutch arm with your finger. Put a post in the 'wanted' forum or contact boonman and see if he's got a lightened one. Rare. Quote
fast87 Posted July 4, 2005 Author Report Posted July 4, 2005 i think i got it figured out, thanks for the clutch help, as for the flywheel it was pretty bent, when tightened down it had almost 1/4" of wobble..so we took it off, layed it upside-down in an open bench vice, stuck a small ball peen hammer on the inside of one of the "rivets" that hold the flywheel together, and pounded away on the round end of the ball peen with a 3lb hammer...test fitted a few times and we got it absolutely prefect, it has exactly .018" air gap on all 3 tabs , i was surprised at how it turned out, sinxce it wasn't useable in that condition we figure it was worth a try...anyway thanks again i'll go work now, my friend is on his way to paint my jugs and right side case(the side case will be red again, and the new jugs silver at the bottom fading to red, with a new polished cool head), i'll show u guys some pics when i'm done, should also be super-clean ~Mark~ Quote
fast87 Posted July 5, 2005 Author Report Posted July 5, 2005 one last question(for the day ), how the hell does my clutch go together?? the pads and stuff are right, but i can't figure out how to put the pressure plate on correctly, do i line up the arrow on the clutch basket with one of the three on the outside big pressure plate?? and how does the nut system work, does the black piece that has the nut then the shaft go on the inside of the pressure plate, with the washer and silver nut on the outside?? also i'll check to see where the ball is, but where is the small steel ball supposed to go?? Thanks again and hope rare can help me out again ~Mark~ Quote
Rare Scottish Tree Badger Posted July 5, 2005 Report Posted July 5, 2005 You've probably got it all back together by now, but anyway. ... Yeah, any one of the 3 arrows. Not sure what you mean about 'black piece' . If you mean the pushrod, then the way you describe it sounds the right way. The long pushrod goes through the centre of the clutch boss. You might not have taken it out . ... Put a dab of grease on the ball and that goes in there too, followed by the pressure plate. Rare. Quote
fast87 Posted July 5, 2005 Author Report Posted July 5, 2005 actually i quit last night when i got online, had to go blow something up , anyway the black piece i'm talking about has a shaft with the shape of a 12mm nut head ont he end, and the threaded rod with the philips head goes inside it...and so on the inside of that blaxk piece witht he threaded rod should be the ball?? then the long pushrod going towards the clutch arm, right?? i'll have make sure the ball is there, it might have fallen..anyway i have not been able to get it right..whenever i get it together and pull on the arm it goes until it lines up with the arrow(where i set it using the threaded rod with philips end on it) then just stops, you can't force it any farther...thanks 4 the help ~Mark~ Quote
Rare Scottish Tree Badger Posted July 5, 2005 Report Posted July 5, 2005 ... whenever i get it together and pull on the arm it goes until it lines up with the arrow(where i set it using the threaded rod with philips end on it) then just stops, you can't force it any farther... 388865[/snapback] That's how it should be. (I take it you mean push rather than "pull" on the arm). ... Your clutch 'lever' will pull it further, that's it's job . Rare. Quote
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