northshoremb Posted May 12, 2005 Report Posted May 12, 2005 I just replaced my clutch friction plates and springs, also put a new clutch cable on just like the Clymer book says. the problem I am having is that the clutch return mechanism on the engine isn't returning the lever after it has been pulled. Without the cable attached to the mechanism I can feel the spring tention and how it pushes back but when the cable is on and I pull in the clutch it stays there and won't return unless I manually do it. I havn't started the bike since replacing these parts but have no idea what is causing this. Any thoughts out there? Quote
1800bigk Posted May 12, 2005 Report Posted May 12, 2005 I just replaced my clutch friction plates and springs, also put a new clutch cable on just like the Clymer book says. the problem I am having is that the clutch return mechanism on the engine isn't returning the lever after it has been pulled. Without the cable attached to the mechanism I can feel the spring tention and how it pushes back but when the cable is on and I pull in the clutch it stays there and won't return unless I manually do it. I havn't started the bike since replacing these parts but have no idea what is causing this. Any thoughts out there? 368534[/snapback] did you line up the arrows correctly on the engine case and clutch arm? Quote
northshoremb Posted May 12, 2005 Author Report Posted May 12, 2005 did you line up the arrows correctly on the engine case and clutch arm? 368541[/snapback] There are 3 arrows on the plate so I lined up an arrow on the plate to the arrow on the housing Quote
1800bigk Posted May 12, 2005 Report Posted May 12, 2005 There are 3 arrows on the plate so I lined up an arrow on the plate to the arrow on the housing 368546[/snapback] no, not those arrows. go to page 69 in your clymer manual and look at figure 48. those are the arrows i speak of. if you dont do that step properly, your clutch will not last long at all. Quote
Rare Scottish Tree Badger Posted May 12, 2005 Report Posted May 12, 2005 (edited) My Clymer's on it's way, so I don't know what's shown in the 'Bible'. But my engine may as well be of use while it's on downtime, so here's a pic of what 1800bigk means. ... . I used the socket to hold the lever at that position, but there should be some free play before it gets tight at that position. Rare. Edited May 12, 2005 by Rare Scottish Tree Badger Quote
jons99shee Posted May 13, 2005 Report Posted May 13, 2005 mine did that and it turned out to be the needle bearing on the arm that the cable attaches to might want to check that Quote
northshoremb Posted May 13, 2005 Author Report Posted May 13, 2005 (edited) My Clymer's on it's way, so I don't know what's shown in the 'Bible'. But my engine may as well be of use while it's on downtime, so here's a pic of what 1800bigk means. ... . I used the socket to hold the lever at that position, but there should be some free play before it gets tight at that position. Rare. 368620[/snapback] So in that pic I adjusted the cable so that when pulled all the way it it lines up with that mark. Is that correct? what it was is I didn't have the screw for the pushrod on the plates screwed in far enough. So now I have clutch pull and I beleive it is done correct now. When I pull in the clutch lever it loosens the pressure plates so the clutch can spin and when I let go it presses against the plates and causes friction? I also had all 6 HD dirt digger clutch springs in and it made for a tight pull so I read on here that some of you use only 3? I tried 3 original light springs and 3 HD springs alternated and was still a hard pull so now I just have 3 HD springs alternated with the other 3 spots empty, will this be ok or should I have a spring in all 6 spots? Edited May 13, 2005 by northshoremb Quote
northshoremb Posted May 13, 2005 Author Report Posted May 13, 2005 (edited) I forgot to ask if when I pull out my clutch adjuster arm on the case it looks like the grease or oil in there is brown & milky with some sand. It doesn't seem to be binding at all but want to know if that just moves the pushrod inside the clutch case or is all that crud going to get into my gear box? I can't see down the hole but really wanna know how to clean it or if it is its own case compartment? Edited May 13, 2005 by northshoremb Quote
1800bigk Posted May 13, 2005 Report Posted May 13, 2005 So in that pic I adjusted the cable so that when pulled all the way it it lines up with that mark. Is that correct? 368812[/snapback] no not correct, not even close. you have to read the clymer and it explains how to adjust it properly. this is how I do it in my own words. you have to let all the slack out of your cable at the handle bar. go down to the pressure plate and loosen the 12mm nut and phillip screw thing. then you have to do two things at once. 1. you push your clutch arm (the thing in the pic) torwadrs the clutch and then while still holding pressure on it you adjust the screw in or out until those two arrows line up. if you have it set to where you pull the cable in and it goes to those marks, then that is incorrect. when the lever is pulled completely the arm should go past the mark. Quote
northshoremb Posted May 13, 2005 Author Report Posted May 13, 2005 no not correct, not even close. you have to read the clymer and it explains how to adjust it properly. this is how I do it in my own words. you have to let all the slack out of your cable at the handle bar. go down to the pressure plate and loosen the 12mm nut and phillip screw thing. then you have to do two things at once. 1. you push your clutch arm (the thing in the pic) torwadrs the clutch and then while still holding pressure on it you adjust the screw in or out until those two arrows line up. if you have it set to where you pull the cable in and it goes to those marks, then that is incorrect. when the lever is pulled completely the arm should go past the mark. 368853[/snapback] So when the clutch isn't being pulled in it should be at that mark? Thats inpossible to do on my bike. I have the screw that pushes the pushrod on the pressure plate screwed in all the way and it only make the clutch arm go to the mark after being pulled, then when I release it it moves back towards the stator cover. Something must be totally wrong here, the new cable is the same length as the old one. I put in dirt diger plates and never used the stock rubber vibration oring cause I don't think they are made for the aftermarket plates. I wonder what I'm doing wrong cause the way it is now it puts friction on the plates and when I pull the lever it lets it free spin. Quote
wesw Posted May 13, 2005 Report Posted May 13, 2005 might check to see if you welded the rod to the ball in the clutch assembly Quote
northshoremb Posted May 13, 2005 Author Report Posted May 13, 2005 might check to see if you welded the rod to the ball in the clutch assembly 368922[/snapback] Have no idea what you mean, please explain. Quote
northshoremb Posted May 13, 2005 Author Report Posted May 13, 2005 no not correct, not even close. you have to read the clymer and it explains how to adjust it properly. this is how I do it in my own words. you have to let all the slack out of your cable at the handle bar. go down to the pressure plate and loosen the 12mm nut and phillip screw thing. then you have to do two things at once. 1. you push your clutch arm (the thing in the pic) torwadrs the clutch and then while still holding pressure on it you adjust the screw in or out until those two arrows line up. if you have it set to where you pull the cable in and it goes to those marks, then that is incorrect. when the lever is pulled completely the arm should go past the mark. 368853[/snapback] If you are suppose to have the clutch mechanism line up with that mark when the clutch lever is left alone than it is impossible. the cable would end up being way to long the way you discribe. I just replaced the cable and it is the same length as the stock one. Can anyone else look at the way the mechanism is on there bike for me and tell me if the mechanism are on your bike is lined up with that mark when its left alone or if it lines up after pulling in the clutch lever. Quote
Rare Scottish Tree Badger Posted May 13, 2005 Report Posted May 13, 2005 you have to let all the slack out of your cable at the handle bar. go down to the pressure plate and loosen the 12mm nut and phillip screw thing. then you have to do two things at once. 1. you push your clutch arm (the thing in the pic) torwadrs the clutch and then while still holding pressure on it you adjust the screw in or out until those two arrows line up. if you have it set to where you pull the cable in and it goes to those marks, then that is incorrect. when the lever is pulled completely the arm should go past the mark. Perfect explanation! That's the way mine's set up. ... Once it's done like that, the free play that you allow in the cable at the adjuster on the hand lever will let the pointer/arrow sit slightly towards the cover. But like 1800bigk says, once you pull the hand lever in, the moving pointer moves past the fixed pointer (towards the engine). ... if you just push the moving pointer with your finger, it should stop when the pointers are level. When you had the clutch plates off, if you'd have tipped the bike up slightly, the ball would have rolled out. Behind that is the pushrod. ... I don't suppose the ball's fallen out? That would maybe be why you seam to have a cable that's too long. Rare. Quote
wesw Posted May 15, 2005 Report Posted May 15, 2005 (edited) Have no idea what you mean, please explain. 368943[/snapback] inside your clutch assembly is where the cable moves the arm it pushes a rod into a ball which spins, and then pushs against your clutch adjustment screw and nut against your pressure plate. some times the rod weld itself to the ball and causes not clutch at all. if you pull the lever and the cable moves the arm but feels like mush it most likely that. what exactly happened to cause this stuff, where you going down a hill at a fast rate of speed adn pull the clutch in. if so you aplied a bunch of force on the ball and there is nothing it can do but get hot and weld to the rod. the only way to fix it, is to split the cases and use a punch to drive the rod out, well thats what i had to do. they do make a kinda throw out bearing that solves this its called a pancake bearing. wickedatv.com sell them it called clutch pusher bearing or somethign like that. many other dealer or builder have them the best 50 buck you can invest in so your shit doesnt screw up again the way you are describing what is going on i would say thats your problem when you pull the lever does it feel like nothing and stay there, if so i bet 10 bucks thats what is going on http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/t...hannel=Products its called clutch pusher wes Edited May 15, 2005 by wesw Quote
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