northshoremb

How much for the front shocks?????????

That is true cause when I cranked a 45 foot table top it landed pretty damn hard and collapsed the front right shock to a L shape. Definatley need aftermarket fronts, back one is ok though do to the adjustability.

Why not try racing each other while driving the other persons quad. This way you can determine if its the quad or the driver. Different people drag different IE: if you use the clutch while upshifting you will lose against somebody who doesn't use the clutch. Try that out and see if that is the difference.

Well I did think that 24:1 was a rich mixture but thats what the Clymer's manual suggested. I'll try 40:1 and see what happens. Also how can I adjust my Idle when there is no Idle screw now that I removed the TORS????????

24:1 like the book says

I just rejetted and at WOT and 1/8 throttle I get a nice tan brown plug but meantime it smokes out the silencers and also has alot of oil coming out. How can the plugs be perfect but the silencers still smoke and drip oil?????????????? Also I am using a twist throttle and removed the TORS , so how do I adjust the idle now. It starts ok if I give it some throttle but when I let go it will stall out.

I do have the clymer manual and thats where I tried the test. That is correct that I had the wires off and tested from the wire side of the coil to the negative side of the coil prong. So I thought it was the coil. Since the dealerships don't have any coils in stock and I don't know anyone with a Banshee I wanna know if it is possible to use say a coil off a twin cylinder snowmachine just to see if I get any spark before I order the correct one. Any coil should atleast give some spark, right??????????????

Thanx, I'll go try that out. I put new NGK plug wires and still no resistance from the wire to the connecting prong. I even tried it without plug wires and tested it from the prong that goes to the plug wire and also the main lead on the back of the coil and got no resistance. Out of a 1000 Banshee owner out there somebody has to know if I should be getting a reading or not.????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Yes its fully removed. Just need someone to check the resistance as i stated.

I am wondering if somebody can go and check there coil on there bike so I know if mine is ok? Unplug the sparkplug caps and the 2 leads (black, orange) from the coil. Now use a OHM meter and test for resistance in these 3 ways. From the black prong to the Orange ( which I have a reading ), from plug cap to the other plug cap ( which I have a reading ), also from the black lead prong on the coil to either plug cap ( which I don't have a reading and thing this may be the cause). I have no spark at all today and yesterday only had a weak spark every 4-5 kicks.

I have all the override wires disconected and have a twist throttle so all the TORS SH1T is removed

If I'm not using the TORS do I still need the unit (follow link and its part #16 Control unit http://ronnies.onlinemicrofiche.com/Yamaha...ype=13&A=2&B=38 Cause now I've been trying to kick it over and won't even attempt to fire. Does anyone think it could be the coil?? There is resistance from the to prongs and resistance from one spark cap through the other but no resistance when I go form the one prong to either cap?

Is still can't see any present spark so I decided to kick it over and every 4-5 kicks it attempts to fire for a sec and thats it untill 5 more kicks. So I guess it is getting some spark but only on occasion. Any thoughts. Could the coil be bad or the CDI?

I removed the TORS wiring , lights, and the switch for the on/off and also the key. I looked in the Clymer manual and it shows most are open circuit so there should be no prob. I tried starting it and have no spark now. I followed the manual and tested the resistance between the to prongs on the coil and its ok but when I test from the neg. prong to either end of the cap I get nothing so I though it was the wires or caps but tested the caps and they are ok and when I go from one cap to the other I get resistance. How can I get resistance from one plug cap to the other but no resistance from the ground prong to the caps??????????

this is really pissing me off now. I even dropped resolution down to 532 kb and still saying its to big. Anyone know why?

I don't know why it's not letting me post my pics. My file size is 724 kb and it is suppose to allow 768kb

This is an 87 SHEE that needed alot of work. It's my bro's but I did all the part orders and mechanical work. I love the Maier raptor plastics on it, looks like no banshee out there. Still need to put the top end on, also needs new rear and front tires as well as new front shocks.

If you are suppose to have the clutch mechanism line up with that mark when the clutch lever is left alone than it is impossible. the cable would end up being way to long the way you discribe. I just replaced the cable and it is the same length as the stock one. Can anyone else look at the way the mechanism is on there bike for me and tell me if the mechanism are on your bike is lined up with that mark when its left alone or if it lines up after pulling in the clutch lever.

Have no idea what you mean, please explain.

So when the clutch isn't being pulled in it should be at that mark? Thats inpossible to do on my bike. I have the screw that pushes the pushrod on the pressure plate screwed in all the way and it only make the clutch arm go to the mark after being pulled, then when I release it it moves back towards the stator cover. Something must be totally wrong here, the new cable is the same length as the old one. I put in dirt diger plates and never used the stock rubber vibration oring cause I don't think they are made for the aftermarket plates. I wonder what I'm doing wrong cause the way it is now it puts friction on the plates and when I pull the lever it lets it free spin.

I forgot to ask if when I pull out my clutch adjuster arm on the case it looks like the grease or oil in there is brown & milky with some sand. It doesn't seem to be binding at all but want to know if that just moves the pushrod inside the clutch case or is all that crud going to get into my gear box? I can't see down the hole but really wanna know how to clean it or if it is its own case compartment?

So in that pic I adjusted the cable so that when pulled all the way it it lines up with that mark. Is that correct? what it was is I didn't have the screw for the pushrod on the plates screwed in far enough. So now I have clutch pull and I beleive it is done correct now. When I pull in the clutch lever it loosens the pressure plates so the clutch can spin and when I let go it presses against the plates and causes friction? I also had all 6 HD dirt digger clutch springs in and it made for a tight pull so I read on here that some of you use only 3? I tried 3 original light springs and 3 HD springs alternated and was still a hard pull so now I just have 3 HD springs alternated with the other 3 spots empty, will this be ok or should I have a spring in all 6 spots?

There are 3 arrows on the plate so I lined up an arrow on the plate to the arrow on the housing

I just replaced my clutch friction plates and springs, also put a new clutch cable on just like the Clymer book says. the problem I am having is that the clutch return mechanism on the engine isn't returning the lever after it has been pulled. Without the cable attached to the mechanism I can feel the spring tention and how it pushes back but when the cable is on and I pull in the clutch it stays there and won't return unless I manually do it. I havn't started the bike since replacing these parts but have no idea what is causing this. Any thoughts out there?