NitroTate Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 Anyone know of a good "how-to" on rewinding a stator to get more power out of it. Or is it not worth it??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandman121383 Posted February 1, 2005 Report Share Posted February 1, 2005 hey this should be a good post topic but u might want to search around. or maybe somebody has a link. i got a spare stator i can experiment with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NitroTate Posted February 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 hey this should be a good post topic but u might want to search around. or maybe somebody has a link. i got a spare stator i can experiment with! 315880[/snapback] I did a search and the closest thing I've found so far is how to rewind the stator on a 4 stroke honda. Don't know how different it is, if at all?? They mention Ricky Stator though... http://4strokes.com/tech/honda/brpstatr.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBD Posted February 2, 2005 Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 Check out Ricky's Stator 200W with adjustable timing plate; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandman121383 Posted February 2, 2005 Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 hey nitro i was lookin round the web and came across that site too. i remember a while back on the old forums someone had rewound one and told us all about it. maybe someone will remember or he'll see this topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navy00banshee Posted February 2, 2005 Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 i need a new one anyway. i dont think i would try rewinding it. just get the ricky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duneslinger Posted February 2, 2005 Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 I rewound the stator on one of my banshees after i failed to tighten one of the screws holding the stator to the plate and chewed up the windings. it cost my about $35 for both the magnet wires and about 4hours! but its worked fine for 9months and counting i did it my self!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NitroTate Posted February 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 I rewound the stator on one of my banshees after i failed to tighten one of the screws holding the stator to the plate and chewed up the windings. it cost my about $35 for both the magnet wires and about 4hours! but its worked fine for 9months and counting i did it my self!! 316111[/snapback] "duneslinger": I would prefer to try to rewind myself to save money for the flywheel and other mods for now, so what is your advise, know of any how-to's? I'll have to post a pic later tonight of what happened to my flywheel, kinda crazy, has anyone ever seen a flywheel sheer off in a circle, like a donut??? I'll post it tonight... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duneslinger Posted February 4, 2005 Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 (edited) you'll first need a small micro torch to burn off the epoxy coatting over the wires until lightly chared & blistered black. look at the wires where they attach to the stator the larger guage wire is for the lighting coil and the smaller pwrs the cdi. trace the stator and label where the colored wires are. try and uncoil the wires it helps to warm the coating with the tourch to soften the epoxy. the windings switch clockwise and ccw on the lobes make notesand its one peice through all the lobes of the same size i counted like 335 turns on the small wire and 45 on the large wire when done i coated it in a clear 5min epoxy. you can find magnet wire at electronic supply stores try to match the wire guage a1/2poundroll should be plenty i used 19mag and 29mag wire made by consolidated . i'll try to find my diagram and post it.from what i've read the more turns the more voltage so don't go nuts Edited February 4, 2005 by duneslinger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NitroTate Posted February 4, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2005 you'll first need a small micro torch to burn off the epoxy coatting over the wires until lightly chared & blistered black. look at the wires where they attach to the stator the larger guage wire is for the lighting coil and the smaller pwrs the cdi. trace the stator and label where the colored wires are. try and uncoil the wires it helps to warm the coating with the tourch to soften the epoxy. the windings switch clockwise and ccw on the lobes make notesand its one peice through all the lobes of the same size i counted like 335 turns on the small wire and 45 on the large wire when done i coated it in a clear 5min epoxy. you can find magnet wire at electronic supply stores try to match the wire guage a1/2poundroll should be plenty i used 19mag and 29mag wire made by consolidated . i'll try to find my diagram and post it.from what i've read the more turns the more voltage so don't go nuts 317316[/snapback] Sweet, so you wound your new wire at 335 and 45 turns correct? Thanks Man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouperSport Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 In case someone didn't mention it earlier, the main difference between 2-stroke and 4 stroke stators is this. A 2-stroke generally uses AC power (alternating current). One end of the wire is grounded to the stator and the current alternates back and forth through the entire system. Basically anything thet runs exactly the same when you attach either lead to power (or switch ground and power), such as lights will run on AC. A 4-stroke uses DC power. It is a direct one way flow of current. A starter motor (as most 4-strokes have) require current traveling one way (DC current) to keep the motor turning the same direction. Reverse the current it rotates the other way. (With AC power, for instance, the current alternates so fast, a DC motor won't even turn.) To accomplish DC power, both leads (ends of the wire) from the stator are run to a regulator/rectifier. The regulator portion limits it to 12volts. The rectifier portion "fixes" the AC signal, so it becomes a constant one way output to one wire and provides a new ground to complete the circuit. Make sense? (I hope so... it's pretty complicated) Although LEDs are a diode and polarity sensitive, LEDs, for instance, will run on either. With AC you can hook either lead to power or ground and it will light because at a given moment the current will instantaneously flow in the correct direction to light it. An LED on DC will run brighter beacuse the current is always flowing in the same direction, however it must be connected correctly or it won't light (reversed polarity). I've been considering a stator rewind myself and been doing some research... Just a note about rewinding. Watts = Voltage x current (amperage). From what I understand, more wraps on the stator coils equals higher voltage. Thicker wire equates to more current (amperage). With a regulator it "regulates" the current to 12 volts, so you are pretty much locked in at the same voltage anyway, so it's current you must increase for lighting (ignition coil has no regulator...explained later). Better to stick with the same number or wraps (45) or close (slightly more if anything) and just use slightly larger wire for the coils. That will give you the extra current you want, and therefore more watts. The ignition coils are more sensitive to voltage changes than current. You don't need lots of current to jump a spark between two electrodes (the spark plug), but you do need lots of voltage. The more voltage, the better the spark. That's why the ignition has no regulator and the stator coil for ignition uses smaller wire and LOTS of wraps (335). You can pretty much follow a write-up for a 4-stroke stator, just remember that one end of the magnet wire will need to be soldered back to the stator as it originally was. If you are converting to DC ("floating the ground"), you'll keep both wires disconnected (from the stator) and run them to the regulator/rectifier. Hope that helps. If I can find the source of this info again I'll post a link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouperSport Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 (edited) Another fact to make note of... A regulator (that limits to voltage to 12V) is not as current sensitive as a rectifier. You can really boost the current, but it still runs fine at 12volts and you just have allot more current. A rectifier for DC (as trailtech sells), is very sensitive to current. You can only boost it so much. A 150watt regulator/retifier will only put out 150watts MAX. It may take a slightly higher input, but will only output 150w. If the input is way over 150w you can fry the rectifier. just a thought. Edited February 10, 2006 by SouperSport Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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