duneslinger

you'll first need a small micro torch to burn off the epoxy coatting over the wires until lightly chared & blistered black. look at the wires where they attach to the stator the larger guage wire is for the lighting coil and the smaller pwrs the cdi. trace the stator and label where the colored wires are. try and uncoil the wires it helps to warm the coating with the tourch to soften the epoxy. the windings switch clockwise and ccw on the lobes make notesand its one peice through all the lobes of the same size i counted like 335 turns on the small wire and 45 on the large wire when done i coated it in a clear 5min epoxy. you can find magnet wire at electronic supply stores try to match the wire guage a1/2poundroll should be plenty i used 19mag and 29mag wire made by consolidated . i'll try to find my diagram and post it.from what i've read the more turns the more voltage so don't go nuts

i've 2 bikes that are .100 over and have no heat problems but this is the last bore on a stock sleeve.

I rewound the stator on one of my banshees after i failed to tighten one of the screws holding the stator to the plate and chewed up the windings. it cost my about $35 for both the magnet wires and about 4hours! but its worked fine for 9months and counting i did it my self!!

rdz pipes do look like sheerer pipes which i have on one of my bikes and i would start with a 280/300main jet on a stock bike with air box k&n filter and lid off.

i have a friend that bought a set off ebay. they are alot like my shearer pipes but 25% larger in dia. they work great with his 4mm stroker!!

what ever happened to 100hp shooter?

does the noss cool head have a revised coolant flow pattern like the trinity stage4 and the choozen head or just flow across the top of the cylinders and out the other side like a prodesign??? 20cc domes and advanced timing i would say 1/2 race to be safe.

hualers rule on the sand 8,9or 10's work if you're geared for them! drop one front tooth [13] for some extra pwr if people say hualers don't turn? no way i've blasted down many trails on the dune with my hualers just fine, edges and the other vpaddles come around alittle easier that's all. I,ve run 8paddle hualers 20/12/9 on one of my bikes for 2years a not portted geared 14/41

i've had a small leak on the left cylinder external from a stud that pulled threads when intalled,repaired threads and that was almost a year ago. this bike has 66.5 pistons with 21cc domes dune port work and pumps approx 175 psi. i really like chozen's three piece{counting domes} head design also cool flames

i have 2 bikes that are 66.5 one has a choozen cool head with std 21cc domes 170 psi and the other has a pro design cool head 19cc std domes 170 psi. i have noticed that most std aftermarket domes work up to 66.5 big bore domes are more for you 409+ big bore motors

if you placed a stock head gskt on the 66.5 cylinders you would find they over hang but the one that come with the .100 piston don't a cool head dome for a big bore has a thinner lip betwen the o,ring and the inside of the cylinder to clear the larger piston the squish band would be very close on the outside of the piston becouse of the dome size on the piston. you could run 2 base gskts for a little more clearance.

what would happen if you added these ports (5/16) down from the reed housing area into the case then added a second set of drilled ports on the roof of the reed housing to the top of the rear transfer port would this increase transfer flow or just wreck the motor??

if added to a banshee would these help or hurt performance?

cool dyno

I was looking at some tecate cylinders that where portted for flat trac racing and there was a extra set of ports in the reed area of the cylinders going stright down into the case below the reeds not the thumb/boost ports to the sides. is this to add to the upper aux boost port when the piston comes down and pushes the fuel charge up the transfer ports? has any one tried it on a banshee??

I've been running 100 low lead av gas for 4 months(30 gallons) on the sand but I did move the main jet up 2 sizes to a 350 main. 175 psi with +4 timing 40:1 mobil-1 oil and still running hard

A simple aid for cooling is to fill in the gap from the radiator to the shroud with some wheather stripping type foam so all the air must pass through the rad and not just pass around it. every little bit helps

take the savings of buying the banshee and add some pipes and that 4 puke with never keep up in a drag even when you miss a shift!!!!

is it safe to run straight low lead av fuel in a banshee with 170psi comp???

i ride dunes only in oregon and currently run a k&n in the box no lid and sides trimmed down 1" was just wondering if this could flow enough for the stock carbs on a portted moter with shearer inframe pipes or do i need to buy pod filters? I noted that some people on here with 4mil trokers still running a k&n in the box but extended another 2" futher back?

I ride sand dunes and was wondering just what is done to the trans to make it a override? when you shift does it skip from 2-4 ? and are they a drag only type of mod, no trail riding? how stong is a cut gear?

has any one know if there's a springloaded style chain tensioner offered for the banshee?? I have seen one on a honda that was in the place of the lower chain roller and took up the slack. Could make front sprocket changes easier and not have to adjust chain as much.

I've been running 175 comp on a ported motor 100 over bored 66.5= 385 +4 timing with 22cc domes on J&S 130race gas 1/2 92 octane & mobil 1 oil for more than a year with no problems, Runs hard on the dunes

i had two bikes ame mod one t5 one fatty both ported 170comp 14/41 dune riders hands down fattys over t5 much better bottom pull and just as good on top end, sold t5 pipes bought sheeres in frame pipes great power. only differnce was bike with t5 pipes timing adv to 4degrees other stock both on 1/2 120 race gas

was just asking if i should add this mod to my pistons