Ducman Posted October 27, 2004 Report Share Posted October 27, 2004 I'm getting some more parts in this week to try to get the jettng dialed in on my new stroker w/ 34mm carb setup. I called a local dealer that has a dyno with a sniffer and asked how much it would be to do a dyno run and they said that the standard dyno map was $75, they said that if I wanted jetting done it would be 1/2 hour of labor which would put it at approx. $120. My reaction was: damb that sounds like a sweet deal! They said they have the necessary parts in stock for jetting the Mikuni TM 34mm too. At first I was planning to do all the labor myself and just use the dyno as a check but for 1/2 hour of labor, I might just get lazy and say do it. Also I have decided to go with K&N clamp ons since taking the carbs off is such a bitch now that I have like 1/2" between the carbs and the stock air box and the carb intake bell is as big as the airbox opening. This may throw off all the jetting work I have done to date anyway. I think the stock air box and foam filter may be holding up a lot of performance. My main question is what air fuel ratio's at which RPMs and throttle postions should I be looking for? I haven't had any experience with this shops service department but their parts dept. always pisses me off so I don't go through them and I have good experience dealing with my local Yamaha shop anyway. Any other dyno advice, things to look for and make sure the shop is doing corectly would be apprediated as I am a dyno virgin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indubitably Posted October 27, 2004 Report Share Posted October 27, 2004 I've never used a dyno myself, but i had my bike tuned on one last summer. If i could do it again i wouldn't, the guy that did mine made it extremely rich and i fouled quite a few plugs over the course of the season. I would do it yourself and just start out rich and work your way down its really easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitrod Posted October 27, 2004 Report Share Posted October 27, 2004 I've never used a dyno myself, but i had my bike tuned on one last summer. If i could do it again i wouldn't, the guy that did mine made it extremely rich and i fouled quite a few plugs over the course of the season. I would do it yourself and just start out rich and work your way down its really easy. did he do it on a dyno with and exhaust sniffer to measure mixture and temp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FIRST BANSHEE Posted October 28, 2004 Report Share Posted October 28, 2004 I think jetting is why to important to trust to someone you don't know, if your close now shouldn't take long to get it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Blue Posted October 28, 2004 Report Share Posted October 28, 2004 i paid $80 when i had mine done and i was able to stand there and watch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oilsmoke Posted October 29, 2004 Report Share Posted October 29, 2004 Ducman Do it and the do a review for all of use . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minkia38 Posted October 29, 2004 Report Share Posted October 29, 2004 i did mine at dyno edge - it DEFINATELY wasnt dialed in right when they were done but i got to see her top out at 92mph on stock bore and sprockets! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducman Posted October 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2004 Yeah, I definitly have a complicated review comming up. I really think the dyno will help alot to figure out the jetting if there is a mechanic at the shop that is a good tuner and knows what to look for as far as air fuel mixtures. I have done so many changes all at once that it was very hard to even know where to start with the new carbs. It is also sending me some mixed signals as far as plug color. After it was first broke in I threw in a set of new plugs, went out and rode it for 10-15 minutes, did a WOT plug check and it was pretty black. I did this again a couple days ago and it came out pretty light colored. I know the needle was rich because it bogged real bad so I dropped the needles all the way down and it improved a lot but still seemed a bit sluggish going into the band with a slow throtle roll on and reacted better just going straight WOT. I think the case was getting loaded up with oil from break-in heat cycles at an idle and slow put put riding and now after doing a buch of agressive riding at WOT the system had dried up alot and stabilized. The silencers were wet and oily and now they are getting pretty drying and looking normal. This motor seems to have needed a bit of time to "come in" to a stable operating range. It is running a lot better know at the same carb settings than it was originally. I think when I put the pod filters on this weekend it will lean out the needle enough, and if not I will install the leaner dump tubes (needle jets) that I ordered. I will also go up 2 sizes on the main. With any luck at the dyno it wont need any major jeting changes and might be able to get it spot on with only one minor change. I still would like to know what air fuel ratios to look for on the banshee, pilot, needle, and mains at WOT. For example on a supercharged car you want A/F = 14.0 :1 under normal driving which is a perfectly balanced (stoichiometric SP?) fuel air mix for optimum combustion but under WOT you need more like a maximum of 11.5 : 1 so it is rich enough to supress detonation and a minimum of 10:1 or else you are loosing a lot of HP due to a too rich of a tune. Anybody know? Banchetta? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00BANSHEE Posted October 29, 2004 Report Share Posted October 29, 2004 Not sure on a banshee, but for your 450 it is right at A/F = 13.0 :1 I had mine tuned on a dyno and we left it a tad rich at 12.5 :1 it runs perfectly with no backfiring or stalling like you here from alot of other people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oilsmoke Posted October 30, 2004 Report Share Posted October 30, 2004 Ducman Over the last year a half building my knowledge base of Banshees I think I read banshee are in the neighborhood of 12.8 air to fuel ratio. But remember use that with care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Blue Posted October 30, 2004 Report Share Posted October 30, 2004 right around 13 is ideal but the guy tuning mine set it at a strane curve but he said that is the way they run the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00BANSHEE Posted October 30, 2004 Report Share Posted October 30, 2004 strane curve What do you mean by a strane curve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Blue Posted October 30, 2004 Report Share Posted October 30, 2004 I meant to say strange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00BANSHEE Posted October 30, 2004 Report Share Posted October 30, 2004 Awesome power for a stock stroke motor. Did Lonnie out of Oklahoma do the dyno tuning for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Blue Posted November 1, 2004 Report Share Posted November 1, 2004 (edited) yep lonnie sure did, super nice and a pretty cool guy to talk to. i was pleased except for the dip in the 9500 range but ill have to deal with that he said it was from my stock ignition. Edited November 1, 2004 by Big Blue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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