Stock '98, FMF fatty's, pwrcore2's, 230 jetts?

[3dflyer]

I just bought a basket case banshee: 1998, fmf fatty pipes, power core2 silencers, and found 230 jetts in the stock carbs. Needles are adjusted to the stock clip location (3rd grove). Using Klots technoplate about 25:1 ratio. Stock bore, great compression, just rebuilt the tranny, cleaned carbs look great and seem to meet specs (floats).

 

Looking for a reliable ride, not balls to the wall performance. I will take usable rather than finicky and hyper any day.

 

Any comments and suggestions would be welcomed.

 

Also having a pita of a time getting this thing to start/idle. Have tried to sync the carbs and TORS units, but I guess I just don't get it. Sounds like the ignition cuts out at low throttle. Won't idle with finger off the throttle trigger. Just touch the lever and it idles.

 

Boy I wish I could talk to someone on the phone about how to set this machine up, as I am all alone in this location. Everyone here is running 4 bangers, and I have no atv shops to visit for help.

 

3dflyer

[Toomey Banshee]

First off your mains are way to lean. On my 99 with Toomeys and pro design air filter, no lid I'm running 320's. If you have the stock air intake system I would start with at least 280's. Work your way down. Secondly to sync your carbs you use your right carb as the reference carb and sync your left. Just remove the rubber boot on the left carb. Hit the throttle and look when the slides hit the sight window on both carbs. If they dont hit at the same time you have to adjust your left one to hit at the EXACT time the right one hits. To do this losen the two bolts under the rubber boot and adjust it with the bottom bolt. As far as your idle goes that can be adjusted using the large thumb screw on top of the tors on your carb tops. Make sure you have the machine warmed up before you adjust the idle. Also, on a stock machine such as yours you generally want the air screw at 1 and a half turns out each. Back to the sync process, alot of people in here take off their air box completely and use a flashlight to look at the back of the carbs to see when the slides START to move up. They (slides) have to move at the same time. I've tried both and like the way I described first. Good luck and welcome to the HQ. Ask as many questions as you want, someone will help you out.

Edited October 17, 2004 by Toomey Banshee

[hamuel]

Yah a 280-320 main and probly a 30 pilot would fix your idling.

[SDD]

3D your bike will not idle until you unplug the TORS connector that comes out of the throttle itself. Follow the wires down and you will find a connector. Unplug it and you should not have to hold the throttle to idle any longer. Your jetting is lean unless you are at say 6000 ft elevation and warmer tempatures with the airbox lid on. If you removed the lid you should be around 300 for mains. Is there any kind of mods besides the pipes?

[Ducman]

With the Air box lid on, stock or foam filter, stock cylenders, FMF fatties , sea level, approx. 80 deg temp, with no other mods effecting air flow use a #27.5 or #30 pilot approx 2 turns out on the air screws, needle middle clip and #260 mains. Air box lid off use #280 mains. Main size will increase with other mods like K&N filter, timing advance, colder temps, porting ect. Try to error slightly on the rich side to be safe.