bansheetimes2 Posted October 4, 2004 Report Share Posted October 4, 2004 Just curious if anyone changes there own bearing in the swingarm and axle. The bearings went in the axle of my 98 and while I have it apart i'd like to replace the bearings in the top of the swingarm. If anyone has any tips, tricks that would help make it easier, please let me know. Also if you have any other info, things to look out for, things that are a b*tch that would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted October 4, 2004 Report Share Posted October 4, 2004 heres a tip, buy a FUCKIN huge hammer. that swingarm bolt is nearly impossible to remove with out a bfh and some elbow grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knight_ripper Posted October 4, 2004 Report Share Posted October 4, 2004 and buy a cylmers manual....it will save you some headaches!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holyman Posted October 4, 2004 Report Share Posted October 4, 2004 Send me an email and I can walk you thru it. I also give HQ members a break on the cost IHRbearings@peoplepc.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickyPap Posted October 5, 2004 Report Share Posted October 5, 2004 I bought a bearing kit for the front of the swingarm. the needle bearings on both sides were completely gone except for the outter metal linning of the old bearings. I ruined 2 new bearings trying to press them in before I realized it. the metal is so smooth in there it really looked like part of the swingarm. Now I'm in the process of diggin' the old crap out. I've already tried reaming it out w/ a drill and file tip... hope you don't run into this problem and let this be a another example of how important maintenance is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted October 5, 2004 Report Share Posted October 5, 2004 I'd recommend putting a grease zerk on the carrier, and one on the pivot as well. The carrier is pretty easy, when you get it all apart just drill & tap it for a grease zerk and a vent bolt. I put the zerk right in the rear center of the carrier, and a bolt centered at the top; when you grease it just remove the vent bolt and stop pumping grease into the zerk when it comes out the vent hole. Use the same 6007RS sealed bearings as stock, and just pry the plastic seal off the inside of each bearing so grease can get into the rollers. The axle seals are 62x43x8 and 62x42x8, that's the ODxIDxCC dimensions (metric) and the National part number, you can get them cheaper than from a dealer by going to Holyman or a local bearing store, just make sure the seals are rubberized and the bearings are good quality Japanese or German. If you have stock axle nuts try to follow the directions in the Clymer manual, you don't want to overtighten the nuts and crush the sleeve in between the bearings. On the swingarm pivot, you can either drill & tap the swingarm itself for a zerk, or what I did; since the pivot bolt is hollow, I welded the bolt head end shut, and found a drive-in zerk for the threaded end. Then I just cross-drilled the bolt and the spacer tube with like a 1/16" or so hole, so when I pump grease into the zerk it will flow between the spacer and the bolt, then between the spacer and the swingarm, eventually all the way to the needle bearings and out the dust caps. Works great. Only other tips I can think of is just take your time and if something won't budge try soaking it with penetrating oil first. Oh yeah don't forget some Anti-Sieze on the splines for the brake and sprocket hubs, and the wheel hub when you put it back together. To get the axle out you only need to remove the left wheel hub, the rear brake caliper, the chain, and then (hopefully) slide the axle out through the sprocket hub and carrier, you won't need to remove the disc hub or the right side wheel hub. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBOMBR Posted October 5, 2004 Report Share Posted October 5, 2004 save yourself some money. go to a bearing supply place the part # for the swinger brg is HK2218-RS MFG - INA BRGS should be like 10 bucks each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheetimes2 Posted October 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2004 (edited) I'd recommend putting a grease zerk on the carrier, and one on the pivot as well. The carrier is pretty easy, when you get it all apart just drill & tap it for a grease zerk and a vent bolt. I put the zerk right in the rear center of the carrier, and a bolt centered at the top; when you grease it just remove the vent bolt and stop pumping grease into the zerk when it comes out the vent hole. Use the same 6007RS sealed bearings as stock, and just pry the plastic seal off the inside of each bearing so grease can get into the rollers. The axle seals are 62x43x8 and 62x42x8, that's the ODxIDxCC dimensions (metric) and the National part number, you can get them cheaper than from a dealer by going to Holyman or a local bearing store, just make sure the seals are rubberized and the bearings are good quality Japanese or German. If you have stock axle nuts try to follow the directions in the Clymer manual, you don't want to overtighten the nuts and crush the sleeve in between the bearings. On the swingarm pivot, you can either drill & tap the swingarm itself for a zerk, or what I did; since the pivot bolt is hollow, I welded the bolt head end shut, and found a drive-in zerk for the threaded end. Then I just cross-drilled the bolt and the spacer tube with like a 1/16" or so hole, so when I pump grease into the zerk it will flow between the spacer and the bolt, then between the spacer and the swingarm, eventually all the way to the needle bearings and out the dust caps. Works great. Only other tips I can think of is just take your time and if something won't budge try soaking it with penetrating oil first. Oh yeah don't forget some Anti-Sieze on the splines for the brake and sprocket hubs, and the wheel hub when you put it back together. To get the axle out you only need to remove the left wheel hub, the rear brake caliper, the chain, and then (hopefully) slide the axle out through the sprocket hub and carrier, you won't need to remove the disc hub or the right side wheel hub. Good luck. Awesome, awesome, awesome. Thanks alot BenBB, its the exact type of info I was looking for. Luckily the swingarm itself already has a grease jerk in it so i'll be able to skip that. But I definitely want to put a jerk in the rear carrier. I've found a good website that shows the layout of parts for just about every location on a banshee from the years 1990-2003. It's a good tool to help when taking stuff apart. You just select the year, the model and which component(for me it was rear arm and rear wheel) and it shows a blown up view of the swingarm/rear axle assembly with all bushings, bearings, nuts, and washers. If anyone is interested its http://216.37.204.206/xtremepowersports/Ya...M/YamahaATV.asp It also provides a price listing if you want to just order the parts through this website. Prices don't seem too bad. Edited October 5, 2004 by bansheetimes2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.