need some help, don't know what the deal is?

[lastlegwarrior]

yesterday i put the shee back together and was hoping for the best. well things didn't go exactly as planned. Here's what i did to the shee i had to split the cases for new shift forks, then i put a fresh rebuild on her. I also put on a rickystator adjustable timing plate (i measured the distance between the magnet and flywheel points), but i set it at zero for the break-in, i also got a lightened flywheel. So i got thing back together and it acted like it had no spark, i could kick it till i was blue in the face and nothing. By the way i still have stock tors, before the rebuild i was running with the tors disconnected, so i wondered if that had anything to do with it, so i plugged them back in and it was acting like it wanted to start, eventually it did. But getting it to start consistently is terrible, i mean with a fresh rebuild it should start at least the second kick everytime. Once you do get the thing running it misses on the right side occasionally, then the thing sputters and pops and wont even get near to touching the powerband. You can only go a 1/4 of the way on the throttle and that's pretty much it before it really starts running crappy. I was thinking maybe it's running really lean, so i did the choke trick nothing, i pulled it out and pushed it in and it still ran the same. The entire shee is stock with the exception of lightened flywheel and adjustable timing plate but that is set at zero so i wouldn't think that would matter anyway. I cleaned the carbs before i put them back on and i currently running a 200 main, the stock needles where moved down one because of pipes and filters but i moved both of them back up one. Basically the thing runs like total crap in every gear, i think it has something to do with my spark because even with some starting fluid (last resort) the shee doesn't really want to start. I think it's my tors or something electrical.

 

P.S. i took off the head and everything looks good as new but there was hardly any signs of combustion????

[.]

isnt the stock main like 200-220 off the showroom floor? You should be quite a bit richer if you have pipes, a good 260 or so if you have the airbox lid still on. Did you put the crossover tube for the choke back on? Just a thought, that tube will cause you to have problems like you're stating.

 

Is the parking brake still connected? On a fresh rebuild, it will pop and be inconsistent through the first heat cycle a little bit and wont want to go into powerband at all. When you're first getting it started, you dont want to rev it like that anyway, you gott get those rings seated.

[boonman]

What's the gap between the pickup and the timing tabs? Are you sure everything is connected and grounded properly? A bad ground is a huge enemy. You also say that everything is stock, except for the flywheel and timing plate... And then you say you have pipes and filters? If you don't have spark, it is definitely electrical. if it doesn't start, it could be a number of things....... Compression, ohmage on the stator..... Fuel.....

[Banchetta]

you answered your own question, disconnect your tors

[lastlegwarrior]

I'm sorry i guess i wasn't very clear. My shee is totally stock now, i had to sell the pipes to pay for the rebuild, yes the e-brake is still connected, and i think the gap between the pickup points and the magnet is like .017. And yes i know the rings need to be seated, i had been fooling with the thing all day and had putted around on it for quite a while, i was just going to see if it would hit the powerband, and obviously it didn't. sorry about the confusion. thanks for the help.

[BenBB]

God it could literally be a million things. Start with the simple stuff; you need 4 things to get it to start and run:

1. compression (ya fresh rebuild I know but just takes a few minutes to check it)

2. fuel (premixed and fresh of course, petcock "on"? pull a carb and see if the float needles are stuck-fuel in the bowls? plugs smell like gas after a half billion kicks?)

3. air (air filter clean? your old pipes not full 'o rat nests-don't laugh that shit does happen-air has to get out also)

4. and spark (at the right time-tried new plugs? spark test? check new stator resistance? that last one is also easy to do and electrical shit can ALWAYS be DOA, even new out of the box).

 

I would disable the whole shitty TORS like Banchetta said, unplug the control box just above the left cylinder, unplug the carb tops, and disconnect the wire connectors at the e-brake and thumb throttle housing.

 

If all of the above checks out, move on; leak-down to check bottom end seals, test ALL electricals (see the FAQ below), sacrificial offering to the Banshee gods, etc. Good luck.

Edited August 31, 2004 by BenBB