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Something is wrong with the idle circuit. Be it a clogged pilot, slides not far enough up, something. You are running stock pipes? Stock airbox? Do you have the snorkel still on there? If you do, take it off, and leave the main jet alone. Are you sure it's running rich? Have you done a WOT check? (Wide Open Throttle) I am still thinking it has to do with the idle circuit....

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I will take the snorkel off today and see what happens. I believe shees running rich because shee bogs around half throttle to WOT. I'm going to try adjusting the throttle cable at the perch to see what happens to idle.

 

Later

 

Cary

 

Oh yea, are the slides suppose to bottom out or what? <_<

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I cannot see how a closed slide will flood the engine. :unsure: Wierd. ANyways, on the idle thing, I don't remember if you have the TORS removal kit or not. If you do, you have to grind the angled part of the carb where the idle screw goes into. I thought I did mine far enough, the instructions tell you to file untill they are flat. Well, after they are flat, you still need to take about another 1/8" off. It doesn't hurt anything. It just give you more adjustability. This could be the idle problem. BUT, I am still thinking that the pilot jets are clogged. Did you pull the pilots out??? You have to get a small flathead screwdriver, and get in where the plastic slosh cup sits and remove the teeny tiny pilot jet. Blow it out, and use solvent.

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Boon, I did remove the TORS. I bought it here from dirtclog. I didn't get any info with it on modifying my carbs. I have stock carbs, so the only screw on my is the piolot air screw. If that isn't what you're talking about then I'm lost. I have read up on jetting on the Un. BANSHEE JETTING FAQ and it mention a couple of times about carbs modified w/idle screws. Of course, me, lost again.

 

Thx for sticking w/this thread. Just remember, if you guys are getting tired of seeing and responding to this post, times that by 100 and thats how pissed I am that my shee is running correctly :( .

 

I'm going to take the carbs apart again for the sec. time in a week and clean the pilot jet.

 

All of these problems have taken place after to mods done to my shee:

1. Added K&N and lid to stock box. Will take snorkel off today to see if shee is still running rich.

2. Took handlebars off and had'em sprayed w/LINE-X (truck-bedliner paint). I adjsuted the idle on the throttle perch and I will double chk it to make sure that's why its not idleing correctly. BUT, if I screwed up and missed that one I believe I will :shootself: twice.

 

 

Thx for your patience, really

 

Cary

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i have much the same thing happening to mine it is an 87 model i just bought the previous owner installed carbs from a 2000 minus the tors it has about 100 psi of compression in each hole but it seems to only want to fire on the right side i have had the carbs off everything looks ok and of course put new plugs in serviced the filter but it seems to only want to hit ad mid range rpm unless i barely give it throttle and let it wind slowly any ideas?

Edited by afarmboy
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Alright CD, With the TORS removal kit, you also need an idle kit. Which usually comes free if you get it from an aftermarkt dealer. it comes with 2 screws, and two nuts, and a drilll and tap. (one screw for each carb). Now, if you look at the slide, on the side of it, there will be an angled part. THis is where the idle screw is suppposed to hit against to keep the slide slightly open to the proper setting. Now, you have to drill and tap into the side of the carb. Think of another carb, where there was an idle screw. Look at the carb on the shee. You will see a spot to the outside of each carb where there "could be" an idle screw. This is where you drill and tap. (you may want to call motion pro and see if they will sell you an idle kit) Make sure you have the carbs off the bike. Aluminum chips will be everywhere. Once you drill and tap, you have to de-bur the inside of the carb where you broke through. Now, on the outside, you will see that the hole you just drilled, has a little "tit" coming of the side of the carb. It is "slash cut", or kind of angled. A nut will not lock it down properly because it has to seat against a flat surface ffor best application. So, they tell you to file it down untill it's flat. Well, after it is filed flat, take an 1/8" more. So that the idle screw can basically protrude further into the slide bore to catch the slide and hold it open to allow fuel to flow through the pilot jet... This can be part, if not all of your problem..... DO NOT use the cables to adjust your idle. This willl give you no free play.... Which is a bad thing....

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afarmboy, I had the same problem when I got my banshee it fired only in one cylinder most of the time. I installed new cdi (dyna fs)fixed it for a week ran great then it died on me and I had no spark so I ordered a ricky stator stator and fixed it. It's ran fine for over a year now.

 

Back to CD's problem don't know much about the tors removal kit mine came with the box unplugged, Boons got you covered there. One thing you could do to get rid of the carburator problems is get yourself a trinity CV2 system one carb 2 minute jetting changes and easy on the thumb but hard on the wallet at $450+. Just a suggestion I wouldn't be without mine as long as it has enough juice for my motor.

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do you really think its spark? why does it run fine at certain rpm and if i ease into the throttle...i am wondering is it fuel? also off the subject a bit... what is the exact procedure for checking compression4 or 5 kicks gives me almost 100 psi so i did the same on the other side....if there was a lot of differance i would asume the worst but with both cylinders the same and only one side not hitting right i must have other problems thanks for the help!

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