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Oil/performance


Ultimateduner

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Maxima - Castor 927 cause it smells purrrrdy. :drool: I went from Yama 2R 36:1 to Maxima Castor 927 40:1 recently and I didnt feel a darn thing. Seemed to smoke slightly less, probably due to the slightly highr ratio. The 2R hides the smell of the race fuel and the Castor adds to it but doesn't cover it up. Yeah this might sound dumb, but does that polished water pump cover do anything for performance? No! but the bling makes ya feel good. :)

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I tell ya what, I used to run Castor 927 and I really liked the oil (smells wonderful as posted above and never had any mechanical problems from it :) ) but ALWAYS had problems starting when it was cold. NEVER started on its own. Shook the gas tank to mix it up before each crankin and still no luck...I changed to Klotz Super Techniplate this last weekend and to my amazement shee starts on the first kick now!! I'm a Klotz man now, and plan on using it unless someone convinces me otherwise...JMO :):cheers::headbang:

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I did hear one time that the castor 927 has a lower flash point than many other oils so more of the oil actually burns when your on the pipe for a long time and really heating things up creating a slight increase in the amount of combustion that takes place. I couldn't tell any difference though. For the same reason, the castor isnt supposed to protect the rings as good under excessive overheating type of conditions. Probably all BS though.

 

I didn't have any starting problems what so ever, same as with the Yama 2R. I haven't had a single drop of oil come out of my pipes either that I have noticed. I haven't delt with it in freesing temps either. Costs like 2x as much as the Yama 2R which sucks.

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Andy at grandriverracing did some dyno runs with different oil at the same ratio's. I can't tell you what brands and types he tried and how he tested them or what gains he saw. He suggested I use Maxima Tundra R. It is a snowmobile oil. But, it is also certified in Japan and Europe and doesn't clump up when it gets cold out. I'm sure there are other oils that are certified there also. Their standards are a lot higher than ours.

 

$15 a gallon for any oil is awesome. I have to order this oil because no one carries it. $31.49 out the door per gallon..... OUCH!!

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I bet most people here change there oil more than once. I don't know the answer to your question. I wouldn't think it would matter. The only difference would be jetting. I'd think that if you mixed the same amount of oil, even the jetting wouldn't change. The color of the plug might because different oils burn different.

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I believe that it is fine to change your oil a couple of times durring the life of the top end if you wanted to, but not between every other tank. It takes a while to build up the proper amount of oil in the crank and cylinder which is one reason why you have to take it easy when breaking it in. It also takes a while for the new type of premix oil to cycle through the motor and replace the existing oil. You get the best protection when the motor has all of one type of oil. While the transition is going on the oils may resist blending in the crank bearings and cylinder and the different detergents in the oils may be fighting each other so you may not be getting as good of lubrication untill you achieve a homogenieous layer of oil from the new premix. I would think going from one synthetic to another, or one petroluim based oil to another wouldn't be as bad though. I think there are many good oils out there, its best just pick the prettyest smelling one and stick with it. ;)

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