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Posted

hey guys..ive had some electrical problems recently and now im only running on one cylinder. I pulled the plugs,checked for spark, replaced the plugs, still ...one cylider...im pretty sure the coil is bad but i was wondering what one of the wires was for..

the wires that come out of the parking brake..were cut out...but i guess the guy just rerouted the wires using some home made reconnection ..instead of just taping them up...kinda confused me...it was a u shaped connection just taking one wire , splitting to two, and reconecting it......pretty weird...ive never seen that before but does nayone know what it could be and if it oculd have burnt out the coil

im going to get the coil tested tomarrow i think

Posted

i switched the wires and it wouldnt even start

the coil had silicone on it...the guys before i bought it messed with it...kinda bootleg ghetto thing they had goin

Posted

checked the coil and tested fine:

well it was electrical for sure at first...the bike ran fine...even on both sides...and then it would be like the kill switch was going on...just die out and come back

 

about a week later...now it runs on one cylinder

Posted

try unplugging the torrs box next to the coil, it's a 3 prong connector. Also the coil is powered by an orange wire and a ground solid black. The kill switch is the black with white stripe. so long as the circut is open it will run. there is a green, yellow blue and red wires..forgot what they are for I belive those are the lighting wires. The blue goes to the voltage regulator, the red and yellow are high/low beams and the green comes grom the stator. I could be wrong. all the safety switches should be an open circut type. so long as those wires don't touch it all should work. It's been a while since I had to deal with any of those wires..I removed them all. The toors works like a kill switch it stays open until eather A: a sensor on the carbs trips it or b: parking brake or throttle switch activate it. Just unplug it. That will eliminate any torrs issues. Then you can concentrate on other issues. The coil itself is cheap and very hard to repair a new one cost like 20 bucks. on the flywheel there is a magnectic pickup and two tangs on the flywheel. clean those up. If your stator is bad it will cause strange ignition issues and a weak spark. there is a test procedure in the factory and clymer manuals. The CDI is a diffrent issues. in order to figure out if it's bad, you have to test everything else ans there is no real test for the cdi. and one will run close to 400 bones. I would recomend buying a new wiring harness for 120 bucks and find electrical scematics and remove the tors wires then install it on the bike. You can test the coil yourself. If both plugs spark..the coil is good. You might have a poor ground. If only one sparks..it's bad. both plugs fire at the same time...regardless of what pistons at TDC. weird but that's how it works. so each plug wil fire at tdc and bdc. Twice per revolution. Also when you pull the harnes apart you'll notice all the switches run off the same circut.

Posted

this may soudns dumb...but i can just leave the torrs unplugged for good after that...should i just tape them up on the ends and let em hang?

Posted

I'd cap them off and zip tie thwem someplace where it won't do any damage. id water gets in the plugs it will kill the motor as the circut is then closed.

Posted

no i havent checked for water anywhere..ill just have my guy look through it...hes good with shit like this

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