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Crankshaft life


booxzzy

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100,000,000 hours or 10 seconds.
 
Depends on how well your motor is tuned and how well you take care of it. Check for play on it when you pull it out.
 
 
I did and for something that did over 400 hrs, it's really tight. I was expecting to be fairly worn.

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To do the checks required to give you go or no go on runout you need a jig or a true stand. Feeling it means nothing. The centers are always the Achilles heel on older cranks 
Yup,spent almost an hour yesterday trying to get it within 0.05mm, got flywheel side right but having trouble with clutch side. Will try again next week, when I get some free time and kids are not bugging me every 2 seconds and I can focus a bit more.

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You talking bearings runout or crank. With the crank they can be finicky. Use standard measurement. I usually knock it like .003 over and walk it back in true with the welder. It takes practice for sure. First couple I did were really frustrating till I learned how to manipulate the tools n jigs to work for me. I ended up making some primitive tooling to help me out 

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You talking bearings runout or crank. With the crank they can be finicky. Use standard measurement. I usually knock it like .003 over and walk it back in true with the welder. It takes practice for sure. First couple I did were really frustrating till I learned how to manipulate the tools n jigs to work for me. I ended up making some primitive tooling to help me out 
This is my first time so it got frustrating for sure,but I'm not in hurry, I'll take my time to get it right, after all I've got spare crank I can use instead of this one.
When welding you use tig welder right?

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Your clymer manual should show how to check that it’s still in spec. You’ll need a set of V blocks and dial indicator on a magnetic base and a set of feeler gauges. If it is not something you are sure about, there are plenty of builders who can true it and weld the pin and swap the outer bearings. 

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Your clymer manual should show how to check that it’s still in spec. You’ll need a set of V blocks and dial indicator on a magnetic base and a set of feeler gauges. If it is not something you are sure about, there are plenty of builders who can true it and weld the pin and swap the outer bearings. 
I've got the bearings on the way, should be here in a week or so. Hope to get it going by summer.

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are there specs to check thrust and runout in the case? 
You can measure big end and small end clearances while the crank is in the cases and possibly run out too but if you need to do any corrections you would need to take it out. 89e7d44311811b29d6a7a4eb9ed219e2.jpgb00262c421487683d04d36bdecf53a77.jpg

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You talking bearings runout or crank. With the crank they can be finicky. Use standard measurement. I usually knock it like .003 over and walk it back in true with the welder. It takes practice for sure. First couple I did were really frustrating till I learned how to manipulate the tools n jigs to work for me. I ended up making some primitive tooling to help me out 
One more question, once you weld the crank how do you rebuild it, do you just grind the welds off or?
Question might seem stupid bud never though of it until now.

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