LukeSandiefer Posted March 31, 2017 Report Posted March 31, 2017 This will be my first top end/build iv'e done. The parts I got new are 21cc domes in a Chariot head, 28mm PWK, port job (getting done) by Alan Cain, Chariot intake, Chariot cages, Pro Circuit pipes, 65mm Wisecos, K&N pods, and a honda throttle. I will start building and tuning soon, and was wanting some more pointers. I am doing a leakdown test, squish band test, and compression test, is there any other precautions I should take? Lane at Driveline bored and honed my cylinders, and measured ring end gap and cylinder wall clearance. I have a good amount of money into this and can't have it fail Quote
camp0429 Posted March 31, 2017 Report Posted March 31, 2017 Have you been into the bottom end? Be a good idea to get the crank checked out and welded if it's not already. Quote
guns4children Posted March 31, 2017 Report Posted March 31, 2017 Don't mess with the bottom end. You'll be going 4 mill next season anyway. Quote
tfaith08 Posted March 31, 2017 Report Posted March 31, 2017 Save time and money and go with a 10mil super. Quote
trickedcarbine Posted March 31, 2017 Report Posted March 31, 2017 If your doing a 10mil super.... You may as well do a 18mil DM Bout how it feels. Quote
LukeSandiefer Posted April 3, 2017 Author Report Posted April 3, 2017 Thanks guys, and the engine hasn't had one catastrophic failure. Pistons were replaced more often then other people would replace them, crank bearings are sound and have no up and down play. And also, guns4children is right lol, i'm going 4 mill next season. Maybe even 421 driveline assassins. Quote
guns4children Posted April 3, 2017 Report Posted April 3, 2017 Told you guys!! BHQ advice professional. I'm like one of those professionals that works behind the counter at Advanced Auto Parts! Quote
guns4children Posted April 3, 2017 Report Posted April 3, 2017 I must be as good at sarcasm as I am with giving helpful advice. Obviously the people who work behind the counter at these stores are mostly unfit to be giving advice. That's what I was trying to get at by comparing myself to them. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Quote
LukeSandiefer Posted April 3, 2017 Author Report Posted April 3, 2017 (edited) I'm not too worried about my crank separating, I don't ride that often and like what was said before, I'm going 4 mill crank with maybe some Driveline cylinders. Thanks for the advice though....This all started by me just wanting to get new carbs...Do I need help Edited April 3, 2017 by LukeSandiefer Quote
bigweav81 Posted April 3, 2017 Report Posted April 3, 2017 It's your bike.....do as you please. OP are just giving sound advice on what one should do/ check. More to just wiggling the connecting rods, and trying to feel free play, or movement. May never have a problem, or may end up with several. Sent from my SM-S820L using Tapatalk Quote
tfaith08 Posted April 17, 2017 Report Posted April 17, 2017 If you aren't gonna weld the crank, go ahead and assume you'll need new cases. Save the trouble and jump to a 24DM triple. AJA, I would never have a banshee engine torn down and not have the crank checked, trued, and welded. That's too easy. The way I see it is that you're going to tear it down one way or another, you may as well do it when you decide to instead of when it decides to let go. Do a pro mod while you're in there. A good crank and trans will be a VERY good base for whatever you decide to build. $400 should cover everything. Well worth it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
guns4children Posted April 17, 2017 Report Posted April 17, 2017 I bet hes already ripping his new topend. Quote
LukeSandiefer Posted April 18, 2017 Author Report Posted April 18, 2017 I bet hes already ripping his new topend. I wish, i'm still waiting for my cylinders to get back from porting. Quote
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