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Chariot cages


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I've read a lot of topics on these and haven't really searched what I'm looking for.

 

Are these reallly better than vforce cages?

 

I just sold my vforce 4 cages to buy a pair of chariot cages. Was hoping someone else could chime in and say good things about them.

 

I am a big collector of all chariot parts for my quad, so I had to have these. I do like that the replacement reeds will cost a lot less. And I'm guessing the boyesen reeds last longer as well. I've seen carbon fiber reeds flake apart with very little time on them.

 

Anyway thanks in advance

 

 

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I am a big collector of all chariot parts for my quad, so I had to have these.

 

 

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At the end of the day this is what matters. You got exactly what you wanted.

I have a lot of stupid shit on my bike. But I like it. That's all that I care about.

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I just thought I would add some food for thought.  

 

There are several variables that dictate how reed valves perform on an engine.  Max flow at various pressures, and stiffness of reed pedals dictated by their tuned length, material, etc.  I hardly know of anyone these days that actually adjusts their pedals but it is a paramount parameter for optimal performance!

 

Let me offer this example.  

Test brand X and brand Y on  a flow bench, both at 20"HG, then at 10"HG.  You will find that as you lengthen the pedals, you increase flow but you have to keep allowable pedal deflections in check to protect the reeds.  What I am saying is this might come down to less emphasis on the actual reed blocks, and  more about the pedals themselves.  

 

You may actually find that brand X flows more at 20", while brand Y flows more at 10".  Then this becomes a function of pulse activity in the intake.  Porting, engine size, rpm, all dictate that vacuum pressure.  IE, tune the pedals to the engine.  

 

 

Maybe that is just opening a can of worms?  

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I have a chariot intake as well so I'm not sure if he builds them to pair with the cages for better performance or not. But with what I've seen with vf4 reeds flaking apart with extremely low hours on them, I think in the end I'm ahead. And I'm speaking with personal expirence. Had a low low hour set of them and one reed cracked apart with less than 6 rides on them. I've also heard horror stories of carbon fiber reeds blowing apart on sled motors and destroying top ends.

 

Boyesen reeds have been around forever and I'm the only person with a modified banshee within a 200 mile radius so I'm not worried about someone whoopin on me out riding over a little loss throttle response.

I was just looking for some insight to them cause chariot claims there better and was looking for some more insight from others who have used them

 

 

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Is there any correlation with motor size, rpm, power level for the reason why the VF pedals break up?

 

I ran 15 gallon of fuel thru my new VF4's at the dunes gettin on it pretty hard, but my motor was all bolt-on, no porting, so probably around 45ish whp and they still look perfect.

 

The Serval these are going in will double that output, rev higher and breath harder.

 

I'm wondering if I need to keep an extra set of pedals and gaskets handy...

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Is there any correlation with motor size, rpm, power level for the reason why the VF pedals break up?

 

I ran 15 gallon of fuel thru my new VF4's at the dunes gettin on it pretty hard, but my motor was all bolt-on, no porting, so probably around 45ish whp and they still look perfect.

 

The Serval these are going in will double that output, rev higher and breath harder.

 

I'm wondering if I need to keep an extra set of pedals and gaskets handy...

Extra pedals are a must. I run v2s in everything and never leave home without extras.

 

 

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Is there any correlation with motor size, rpm, power level for the reason why the VF pedals break up?

 

I ran 15 gallon of fuel thru my new VF4's at the dunes gettin on it pretty hard, but my motor was all bolt-on, no porting, so probably around 45ish whp and they still look perfect.

 

The Serval these are going in will double that output, rev higher and breath harder.

 

I'm wondering if I need to keep an extra set of pedals and gaskets handy...

I ran my VF2's for many many hours in my 4mil, and then in my 4mil cub before they needed reed replacement.  You could tell that they were starting to get stressed near the mounting screws and also at the corners at the downstream edge of the reed.  I have heard of severe catastrophic failure of VF reeds where they break and kill the top end, but mine had plenty of signs that they were starting to get worn out and didn't look like they were about to come apart.  I just checked my VF'2 reeds that have quite a few 421 cub hours on them and they still look like new.  Not a bad Idea to keep a new set handy though, because you can't just go down to the nearest motorcycle stealership and buy a pair, and when they start to look worn, you don't want to risk running them any more.

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I agree that thiers alot of factors in choosing reeds, but i didnt pull the vf2 reeds are better statement out of my ass, i know the shop who was tasked with the r and d from v force for the banshee, they chose the reed v force ended up running. And these guys swear 2s are still better also know another very big builder that says 2s all the way. Now we were talkin cubs in the 421 ish size range. I like boysen pedals as well great company, but for straight up power vf2s for smaller cubs and wildly ported 350s seems to be the tickit.we didnt chat about bigger cubs, or alky motors or what not, just my bike, and his opinion on reeds with hundreds of testing hours, ill keep runnin vf2s..

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