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Appreciate the numbers J-Madd.

 

Are a lot of guys running this kind of set up at the tracks?

 

 

 

 

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No one that I know of. Most that run the MSD on big twins or triples run the other style.

 

I don't see the benefit of that vs a correctly programmed and functioning dyna unless the crank is out of phase.

 

19v lithium battery is what everyone runs.

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Think I'm gonna do some research and tinker around with it. See if I can clean up the look, mounting appearance and work with the power source.

 

Got nothing to loose but time this winter..

 

Thanks for all the helpful knowledge home slices.

 

Open to any PM's about helping or possible purchasing.

 

 

 

 

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Think I'm gonna do some research and tinker around with it. See if I can clean up the look, mounting appearance and work with the power source.

 

Got nothing to loose but time this winter..

 

Thanks for all the helpful knowledge home slices.

 

Open to any PM's about helping or possible purchasing.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Time is money. Sometimes it don't pay to fuk wid shit
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Time is money. Sometimes it don't pay to fuk wid shit

True dat true dat.

 

Realistically doe.. this ain't gonna be no money maker and aren't we all already loosing are asses lol That's just way of the game.. right?

 

For me this is more about being a zero to a good competitor.

 

Money talks doe lol

 

 

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If the switches correspond to the total loss brains on standup jetskis, You are set up for Rev limit at 12,500rpm, Holeshot 4000rpm, Max timing -1 degrees, retard begins at 4000rpm pulling 30 degrees until rev limit at 1250rpm. You'll need to get a dial indicator and check what the static timing is with the brain set to led mode to figure total timing. (since it is pulling 30 degrees, I'm guessing the flywheel is advanced at least 40 degrees)

 

FYI http://documents.msdperformance.com/42351.pdf

 

Buying a few 4S Lipo Batteries from hobbyking and a cheap charger would be a trick setup for replacing the drill bats.

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IF that is the same as mine, I have the cover that shows what dipswitches do what. I set my initial timing at 30 degrees btdc with a degree wheel, then pulled timing that made it about the same as the OEM map as a starting point. Mine was programmed by Mark Herek when I got it. On my big twin, I think 30 degrees was too far down in the hole for the dial indicator to touch the piston (IIRC), which is why I used the degree wheel...or maybe I double checked my measurement with the wheel. I don't recall.

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