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Clutch/clutch lever issues


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Should be able to adjust it at the perch with just a bit of slack and be golden.

 

Again, your explanation that it worked better with 1/2 a lever pull worth of slack makes no sense.

Yeah, I know that's how it should be but when I adjust it that way, the engine stalls when I put it in gear

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We must be talking about 2 different things. That is mechanically just not possible.

I'm pretty sure we're on the same page. Also, it seems to be temperature related somehow. Like if the thing is completely cold, it'll stall in gear even with the cable loosened. But once its sat there in neutral for a couple minutes and warmed up, it doesn't. I understand mechanically how the transmission works and everything but this has me bewildered :confused:

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Oh yeah.

Both of mine need to warm up some before I pop them in gear.

I figure that's normal.

 

But without your cable properly adjusted the clutch shouldn't release at all.

Theoretically, they shouldn't need to warm up right? If the clutch is fully disengaged, then the quad shouldn't jump or kick down or do anything when you put it in gear. The only other banshee I rode worked that way. I would guess that is the proper way for them to work just like a manual car, clutch fully on and fully off respectively.

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Clutch plates will stick together, especially when the oil is cold. Work the clutch in and out a couple times while it's running in nuetral.

Still doesn't explain the issue I'm having with my banshee's clutch, or why the one my friend has, acts like a manual shift car

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Still doesn't explain the issue I'm having with my banshee's clutch, or why the one my friend has, acts like a manual shift car

Sure it does. With a wet clutch, when 2 plates stick together in theory your clutch is not fully released. If one plate is stuck to the other then that means the steel disk between the 2 plates which rides in the clutch basket groove is going to take the rotation from the clutch basket, transfer it to the fiber disks and into the transmission. Just the same as it would if it were in gear.

 

I am not sure what you mean by acting like a manual shift car.

Edited by camp0429
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Were not really saying that your clutch is for sure sticking when cold, it is just common for that to happen. When the clutch lever is pulled the plates don't move a whole lot as it is, so if your cable is streched or your lever/perch is bent or something, it just makes it that much worse. Long story short, if it kills the engine when you put it in gear, then the clutch is not releasing all the way.

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Were not really saying that your clutch is for sure sticking when cold, it is just common for that to happen. When the clutch lever is pulled the plates don't move a whole lot as it is, so if your cable is streched or your lever/perch is bent or something, it just makes it that much worse. Long story short, if it kills the engine when you put it in gear, then the clutch is not releasing all the way.

Right. So, do you know what the solution to the original problem is? New clutch cable or what

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Unhook the cable from the perch. Move the clutch arm on the engine case till it stops. The tip should align with the arrow on top of the case when you push it to its stopping point. If that's not happening, you will need to pull the clutch cover and use the adjuster in the middle of the clutch pressure plate to make it line up. Once that's good, you can set the cable tension how you want it. If it all lines up but you steel need excessive adjustment to make it not stall, it's probably time for a new clutch cable.

My personal experience, I have found sometimes that the actuator does not necessarily have to line up with the case arrows. I actually had to adjust mine to the right side of the case arrow to stop it from creeping in gear. Also, like as has been stated, a stretched cable will make it impossible to get adjusted right, they are cheap enough to change out yearly or so. Also keep it lubed. One other thing is the perch/lever combo needs to jive with each other to get enough pull

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