NEW REBUILD! WHAT SHOULD I DO!?!?!?!?!

[Alex_o345]

So I got my shee in pieces and I have a bad crank bearing and pretty chewed up tranny!!

I don't want to spend a forture but i'm thinking of keeping this shee for a while and this is my first time apart and i'm willing to drop a couple grand into it but i know it can get up to $5000 easy and more.

 

So if you were me what would be the first things to do??

 

-My main questions are should I buy a band new crank or would it be smart to just change the bearing? Or is it stupid to cheap out here.

I just noticed the arm is kinda scrwed too so would need new one of those. Should probably just get new crank eh?

. I'm already $800 deap with new tranny, pistons, seals. (canadian pussy dollars btw). 

- And I found a used tranny for $200 shipped.  I Figured if i can get a tranny with not too much wear it would be better then leaving my tranny in. Its pretty chewed up!

 

So right there i'm $1000 deep unless I replace bearings in crank. and save some money that way!!

 

I have FMF FAttys on it. There a lil beat up as well. 

 

I want to power coat the frame and what ever else i can? - How much does that usually cost?

 

I'm skepticle to get oversized pistons and cylinders because I dont want the thing to blow up every summer.  

 

 

Am i'm being nuts?  what you guys think??

 

 

I appreciate some good opinions!!

Edited June 10, 2016 by Alex_o345

[Larry's Shee]

You said "Arm is chewed up" Do you mean connecting rod ?? If so definitely replace the whole crank? Even if it is just one bearing you have to wonder why did if go out? And what effect would that have on the rest of the bearings, including rods.

 

If you're wanting to cheap out on the engine, you sure as fuck can't afford PC. From the sounds of things you should just get a couple spray bombs and call it a day.

[Shee_fast]

If your budget is there id buy a new hot rods 4mm crank and do a stock cylinder 4mil imo... But if you get a good used trans id go that route also

 

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[ray408]

Send motor to redline or f.a.s.t and bite the bullet and have everything gone through that will save headaches in the future and have a new motor imo

 

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[Alex_o345]

Banshees are crazy eh!! lol

 

I know I'm getting a little over my head and that I have no clue what I'm doing but I basically wanna slap this thing together without needing to much help and being confident that its going to last. I'm going to get the new crank because yah the connecting rod is fucked and I'm going to try and find a good tranny because mines chewed to shit.

 

I think clutch is good - your probably right about the kicker idler gear bushing and shift shaft.

 

I feel like getting into a +4mill stroker or whatever it is is where i'm going to start getting into trouble because I don't know shit about that.

 

Is there a big difference if i just hone it and get 64mm pistons or if I bore a bit to 64.5 or 65?  Will I notice much a difference?

 

Its sad that 2 -3 grand into this thing is fuck all in the eyes of true banshee enthusiasts but i love hearing the input and one day I'll be there.

 

This was the first toy I've ever bought about 6 years ago lasted me 4 years without touching it -  replaced top end last summer and blew the crank. Guess I shoud have done everything the first time.

 

All I know is I love the thing and don't wanna get rid of it anytime soon.

[sangheraent]

dude just get a serval kit why mess with it.

[Larry's Shee]

As to crank they aren't worth messing with unless it's something special, like 7,10 mil

 

As to new piston in old hoe, if things are that good all you need is a hone and rings.

If you are buying new pistons spend the money and have it bored. Cylinders naturally wear out of round and tapered, therefore new pistons will NOT fit properly.

Machine shop will measure cylinders and tell you what size overbore you will need. When they have pistons they bore and hone to fit those pistons.

Putting new pistons in old hoes will actually reduce your reliability, unless they are perfect.

[Strm Trpr]

Bored cylinders and or honed and chamfered (of builder of your choice but make sure it is done 1st before purchasing pistons)

^^^ This is sooo inaccurate!!

 

Any machine shop with half a brain will inspect and mic your cylinders to determine if a .010", .020" or greater oversized piston is needed.

 

Then once the pistons are in the shop's possession they'll mic the pistons to determine their exact diameter at the proper location vertically on the piston.

 

Then they'll bore, chamfer and finish hone your cylinders to achieve the optimum piston to wall clearance.

 

There are piston manufacturing tolerances that can be off a couple thousandths bigger or smaller.

 

Boring cylinders to next oversize without having the new piston dimensions verified for optimum piston to wall clearance is completely and totally fucking retarded.

[Larry's Shee]

^^^ This is sooo inaccurate!!

Any machine shop with half a brain will inspect and mic your cylinders to determine if a .010", .020" or greater oversized piston is needed.

Then once the pistons are in the shop's possession they'll mic the pistons to determine their exact diameter at the proper location vertically on the piston.

Then they'll bore, chamfer and finish hone your cylinders to achieve the optimum piston to wall clearance.

There are piston manufacturing tolerances that can be off a couple thousandths bigger or smaller.

Boring cylinders to next oversize without having the new piston dimensions verified for optimum piston to wall clearance is completely and totally fucking retarded.

This is so very true !! My son's cylinders and pistons came back marked A & B. I never asked how much difference between the two pistons, didn't matter to me. I assembled accordingly.

[Alex_o345]

Awesome guys!! This was just what I needed to know. That's what i'll do for sure - crank, tranny, bored cylinders.  There stock now so should I go up to 64.5mm incase I need to borethem again down the road? or should I go 65mm?  or more?

 

I like the idea of the modded shift star.. does that work good?

 

And I guess I will get a leak down tester. I'm scared to use it and find a freakin problem though. What is it for exactly? It looks for cracks and leaks in the case?  What do you do if you do find a leak?

 

WTf is this pancake bearing for? Is it actually useful?-- I thought maybe it was a joke before I looked it up. lol

 

I defiantly want to get the frame and whatever else power coated. Any tips of that?  Pieces I should or shouldn't get done?  You can't do that to the engine right?

 

I probably want to get new plastics and get everything cleaned right up -  shits expensive though is there any good place to order plastics?  - cant find full bore anywhere I feel like I'm missing something.

 

Pipes are and little dirty and have couple scraps and burn marks - any tips on polishing those?  I just want to clean everything right up before I put it back together. Although I'm lazy as fuck and just learnt he best way to do things the first time, hence why I'm talking to you guys before I do anything and spend any money.

 

Always appreciate the help and have learned a lot from this website. 

Edited June 13, 2016 by Alex_o345

[Larry's Shee]

So there's a chance your running 2 different sized pistons in the same motor?     Duno about you, but most people say to avoid doing that as it un balances the motor....

No, they were both say 65mm , but may have had say .0005" difference

[Larry's Shee]

Out of the last handful of wiseco pistons I've used, only one ring needed to be filed, including a Warrior. I always check them though.