Jump to content

No spark


AK47KID

Recommended Posts

Check you coil...and stator and pick up

How would I go to check the igniting coil? And pick up coil and stator. I've never had to check them on other quads

 

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

Edited by AK47KID
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Boy, you've left yourself open for a lot of comebacks, lol.

 

Either buy a Clymers Repair Manual or find the download on here.

 

Could be bad kill or key switch.

Have you even checked for broken wires in harness?

Did this run and stop? Or is it new to you POS ?

 

 

BTW, welcome to BHQ.

Grow some thick skin, you're going to need it, lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Trouble shooting list

 

-Flywheel (no rattles good magnetically)

-Flywheel key ( not sheared off or not advanced key with extra timing on plate)

-Stator (ohmed and tried another good working stator of known working bike?)

-Pick up and pick up gap (don't be afraid to file nubs)

-Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through

-Connectors cleaned and greased

-New spark plugs

-Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in

-New plug boots if old ones don't ohm out.

-Ohmed and tried known coil

-Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric -Harness ground cleaned up

-Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted properly

-Disconnected the tether switch

-Test kill switch

-Swap coil

-Swap CDI

-Swap stator

 

Random stuff from electrical FAQ:

At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run.

 

You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails.

 

your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated.

 

the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...