Blowtie316 Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Degree wheel and a top dead center guage, and I'm not trying to be a dick! Just some insight. It's hard to get true runout with crank installed in all the areas needed to eliminate crank problems. With it out and in a true stand you can check the inner bearings which is where I see most runout issues on stock cranks That's what I was afraid of. I can do both ends and I have a degree wheel and a dial indicator, I will see if I can't whip up something to adapt it for use as a tdc gauge. But I have no way of checking the runout at the inner bearings without tearing it all apart again. If I can't find any issue with the runout on both ends, and both cylinders are in time, I'm just going to run it. If something seems amiss, I will tear it down and send it to FAST for a real checkout. Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blowtie316 Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Got a response back from FAST. They check the cranks and they don't ship with more than .003 runout. Said to check the following; Rubber Motor mounts- Not checked, I guess I need to do this. Rubber washers (dampers)- Brand new ones just installed Loosen and retighten all motor mount bolts - done twice Check flywheel and make sure it's tight- done this 5 times, also used different flywheel. I'm still going to try to check crank phasing and runout again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blowtie316 Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Yes exactly. It still won't keep the motor itself from shaking like a motherfucker, but it might transmit less to the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Yes exactly. It still won't keep the motor itself from shaking like a motherfucker, but it might transmit less to the chassis.Might?? It will. Sleeper built my motor. Replaced all mine. I have 4 D shaped mounts as well. I have no vibration really at all other then the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blowtie316 Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 You guys are funny, one guy says motor mount bushings and nobody jumps on board, but I say fast mentioned it as well and now everybody's raggin on me. I'll pull it down and check them. At that point, I feel like I might as well change them out because I wouldn't know how to tell good from bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Hillbilly method (been awhile since Ive done it this way so bear with me.) Pull the plugs and flywheel cover. Take a pencil and put it in plug hole Rotate flywheel by hand until you see the pencil at TDC... (roll in back and fourth a few times) WITHOUT MOVING FLYWHEEL move pencil to opposite plug hole. Rotate the flywheel in the SAME direction you were rotating and see if the pencil drops. If it drops that means that you have one cyld at TDC, and one that is not at BDC... If it raises that means that one is at TDC and one is at BDC. Now this isnt a scientific way to do this, but its been my experience that when they vibrate like you are saying they are far enough out that you will see it pretty clearly. Its a cheap/easy way to give it an initial look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blowtie316 Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Hillbilly method (been awhile since Ive done it this way so bear with me.) Pull the plugs and flywheel cover. Take a pencil and put it in plug hole Rotate flywheel by hand until you see the pencil at TDC... (roll in back and fourth a few times) WITHOUT MOVING FLYWHEEL move pencil to opposite plug hole. Rotate the flywheel in the SAME direction you were rotating and see if the pencil drops. If it drops that means that you have one cyld at TDC, and one that is not at BDC... If it raises that means that one is at TDC and one is at BDC. Now this isnt a scientific way to do this, but its been my experience that when they vibrate like you are saying they are far enough out that you will see it pretty clearly. Its a cheap/easy way to give it an initial look. I guess a guy could use 2 pencils and watching them both just rotate the crank slowly, they should both change directions at the same time although opposite directions. I'll try the hillbilly method first just for fun, then I will try to be a little more accurate with a piston stop and degree wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blowtie316 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Pulled the engine tonight to check all the bushings, one of the tension rod bushings was a little soft. Both right under the motor were oil soaked. I pressed them out already and will order new tomorrow. The other mounts seem good. I cannot get any movement out of any with just my hand. If I stick a bolt in them I can get them to move but not much, they seem pretty good. Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phelps Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 I guess a guy could use 2 pencils and watching them both just rotate the crank slowly, they should both change directions at the same time although opposite directions. I'll try the hillbilly method first just for fun, then I will try to be a little more accurate with a piston stop and degree wheel. you would just have to know green to realize 2 pencils never crossed that peanut... you're chasing harmonics. the further out they're allowed to travel the worse they get. the engine vibrates. at this point we don't know if the engine itself is vibrating more than the next. assuming it is then it's internal. assuming it isn't and it is "felt" vibrations than you're chasing a mounting point. rather it's the engine mount sleeper is saying, or a exhaust mount or any mount. not being a ass, but typically a topic like this doesnt get this much attention so for everyone to be attempting to help i would take any advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blowtie316 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 you would just have to know green to realize 2 pencils never crossed that peanut... you're chasing harmonics. the further out they're allowed to travel the worse they get. the engine vibrates. at this point we don't know if the engine itself is vibrating more than the next. assuming it is then it's internal. assuming it isn't and it is "felt" vibrations than you're chasing a mounting point. rather it's the engine mount sleeper is saying, or a exhaust mount or any mount. not being a ass, but typically a topic like this doesnt get this much attention so for everyone to be attempting to help i would take any advice. The first comment went over my head. I hope my comment wasn't taken the wrong way. I did the pencil method last night, as far as I can tell they are perfectly opposite of each other, one is a bdc when the other is at tdc. Since the engine is out, I might as well put the degree wheel on it and check it more accurately. I will do that while I wait on the new rubber dampers. I pulled the motor and checked all the rubber isolators as sleeper suggested, I also did the hillbilly method per n2otoofast4u and didn't notice anything wrong. Am I overlooking advice? You are right about threads like this not getting attention, I have already searched and read all of those, most were literally no help at all. Atleast maybe this thread will help out the next idiot like me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phelps Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 lol i was simply saying using two pencils instead of one never crossed green's mind. no i wasn't meaning you skipped any advice, just simply let sleepers resume offend you. i would have just took the advice without getting offended. once you have checked everything so far and you're not happy with the results i would start looking elsewhere on the bike. cracks in the engine gussets, exhaust or engine hitting the frame etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blowtie316 Posted November 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 Try as you BansheeHQ veterans might, I am not easily offended. Sarcastic, definately. Moving along... I will keep working at this thing and post my results. Again, thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 Clutch basket slop? The bronze bushing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blowtie316 Posted November 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 No, its apart right now and looks as good as new, no play to speak of. Also I still have the vibration with the clutch completely removed. Thanks though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 How bout the primary gears? Matched set? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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