Blowtie316

I'll be there Friday in campsite 101. Don't have my banshee anymore so I'll be rocking a trx250r. Do they still sell race gas at the pump?

When I ran it on the od, it was real tight like .001-.002 until it got close to the timing blocks then it would jump up a to .005-.006 depending on which block. I did not try it on the face.

I was convinced by post 19 and 22 but people kept throwing out ideas. Laugh all you want. Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2

I tried backing the timing off to -4 with no change. It has about 80% 110 in it right now. I have tried main jets up to 350 and all it did was get real sluggish. I installed the new tension rod bushings, no change. At this point I'm convinced it must be normal for a 4mil. Time for an anti vibe stem. Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2

Latest update... I checked runout again on both ends, left side was .002 on the crank, right side was .oo1". Runout on the od of the flywheel with it installed was .006" but it seems to jump around when it gets close to the blocks that pass by the pickup coil so I'm not sure how accurate it is. Checked cylinder bank phase alignment with a dial indicator finding tdc, they were exactly 180 degrees apart. Pressed in a new motor mount bushing on the rear left although there was no real reason for it other than I had already ordered 1, the old one was still fine. Put the motor back in and mounted without the tension rods installed (still waiting on new bushings) and the t5 pipes, still the exact same amount of vibration. I will post again when I get the tension rods installed but I don't expect it to be any different.

Point taken on the timing. I think it will be accurate to +or – 1°, is there a tolerance for phase alignment? Is the flywheel supposed to be neutral balanced? I had taken a runout reading on the OD of the old flywheel by turning the crank, it was .006" I have not checked the new one. Is it common to have an oem one out of balance? Thanks for your ideas.

I will check phase with a timing wheel. I planned to use a piston stop to locate and and align the wheel to tdc on one cylinder, then check it with the other cylinder. Also, I did remove the clutch and gear entirely (started with a drill on the crank nut) and I still had the vibes.

The stingers were rubbing when I first got it, but I have adjusted everything and got them away from the frame, everything looks good now. The only thing unusual is the two pipes themselves basically rub against each other where they turn up behind the bottom of the steering stem. There are flat spots on both pipes like they are meant to sit together. I just got a set of T5s that I am going to try also when I get this thing back together.

Yeah, the way my buddies bikes are, there is a certain RPM where it peaks, like maybe 4000 rpm (guessing) then after that it smooths out real nice. Mine just gets worse the harder you rev it. The more and more I read, it's probably normal and that is part of the reason that it was rubber mounted in the first place. This thing feels like a cr500.

Right now it's all back apart to check everything out. One of the tension rod dampers was soft so I am replacing the two bottom ones. I still want to put a degree wheel on it and check phase as well as check runout on both sides as well before I put it back together. If it is still vibrating when it goes back together, I will certainly post a video.

Wrist pin bearings and pistons are new, as is the crank, probably around 4 hours on it and it's vibrated like this since it went together. Everything felt good going together, I am very meticulous when putting it together, I check everything. The bearing journals in the cases looked perfect, no marks from spinning or damage whatsoever. Trans gears and bearings all looked good to me but this is my first banshee so I wouldn't notice everything. It does it with transmission disconnected, so I can only assume it is the crank/rods/pistons area.

Now that I don't know. This engine was assembled when I got it but it came with a box parts that basically is the bottom end minus the cases. They appear to be fairly tight to each other and I don't notice any abnormal wear. I also don't hear any noise when I'm accelerating or decelerating. It is mosly apparent when revving, and the vibration is the same with the clutch removed, so nothing is even touching the primary gear.

No, its apart right now and looks as good as new, no play to speak of. Also I still have the vibration with the clutch completely removed. Thanks though.

Try as you BansheeHQ veterans might, I am not easily offended. Sarcastic, definately. Moving along... I will keep working at this thing and post my results. Again, thanks for your help.

The first comment went over my head. I hope my comment wasn't taken the wrong way. I did the pencil method last night, as far as I can tell they are perfectly opposite of each other, one is a bdc when the other is at tdc. Since the engine is out, I might as well put the degree wheel on it and check it more accurately. I will do that while I wait on the new rubber dampers. I pulled the motor and checked all the rubber isolators as sleeper suggested, I also did the hillbilly method per n2otoofast4u and didn't notice anything wrong. Am I overlooking advice? You are right about threads like this not getting attention, I have already searched and read all of those, most were literally no help at all. Atleast maybe this thread will help out the next idiot like me.

Pulled the engine tonight to check all the bushings, one of the tension rod bushings was a little soft. Both right under the motor were oil soaked. I pressed them out already and will order new tomorrow. The other mounts seem good. I cannot get any movement out of any with just my hand. If I stick a bolt in them I can get them to move but not much, they seem pretty good. Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2

I guess a guy could use 2 pencils and watching them both just rotate the crank slowly, they should both change directions at the same time although opposite directions. I'll try the hillbilly method first just for fun, then I will try to be a little more accurate with a piston stop and degree wheel.

You guys are funny, one guy says motor mount bushings and nobody jumps on board, but I say fast mentioned it as well and now everybody's raggin on me. I'll pull it down and check them. At that point, I feel like I might as well change them out because I wouldn't know how to tell good from bad.

Yes exactly. It still won't keep the motor itself from shaking like a motherfucker, but it might transmit less to the chassis.

Got a response back from FAST. They check the cranks and they don't ship with more than .003 runout. Said to check the following; Rubber Motor mounts- Not checked, I guess I need to do this. Rubber washers (dampers)- Brand new ones just installed Loosen and retighten all motor mount bolts - done twice Check flywheel and make sure it's tight- done this 5 times, also used different flywheel. I'm still going to try to check crank phasing and runout again.

That's what I was afraid of. I can do both ends and I have a degree wheel and a dial indicator, I will see if I can't whip up something to adapt it for use as a tdc gauge. But I have no way of checking the runout at the inner bearings without tearing it all apart again. If I can't find any issue with the runout on both ends, and both cylinders are in time, I'm just going to run it. If something seems amiss, I will tear it down and send it to FAST for a real checkout. Thanks for your help.

I'm going to check runout again on both sides of the crank. Is there a way to check for time with it installed?

Thanks for your resume'. At this time, I am not worried about how much vibration could be transmitted to the chassis through weak isolators. I am trying to determine if the vibration I have is normal or excessive. As it is now, it doesn't seem like it would last very long.

No I haven't checked them. I honestly cant see how they would increase felt vibration when they're worn unless the engine iss moving so much it rubs metal to metal somewhere which isn't happening. The engine itself vibrates much harder than what I feel in the pegs and bars. If I put my foot on the clutch cover it shakes the shit out of it.

Im not worried about felt vibration. Im just worried that it will rattle itself apart. It shakes plastic and makes the handlebars blurry. I get that its going to vibrate, this just seems excessive. Is it going to be worse with a serval top end and cpi inframes? Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2