BrokeVW Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 I'm in the middle of doing the TORS removal, and wanted to verify the procedure on the electrical side of things with a 2000 model. I can just unplug both carbs, the thumb throttle, and the control unit and the ignition will still operate? I will be removing the control unit, thumb throttle switch and obviously the carb switches. I plan to fill the rubber grommet with RTV to seal it where the wire passed through for the thumb throttle. I also have questions about my carbs... the manual shows a washer over the needle in the slide, mine has none, but the previous owner re-jetted it. Should there be a washer there? On assembly of the slide, is this the correct assembly? I had to clean around my front chain sprocket to see if I have a leaking seal there or if it was wet from the previously leaking carbs, and when I removed the plastic side cover, there was a few drops of water in there. Everything looks sealed, and I found the notch for the RD350 neutral switch wire and it has a rubber plug in place so I can't see how the water got in but it was clean so I'm guessing from the hose while cleaning. Is there a common point for them to leak at that I can fix? Thanks! Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeletor Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Don't cover the hole. Someone has probably replaced the needles the washer is for setting the needle at 1/2 increments. When I re jetted MY 06 banshee I removed the wwasher. Make sure your throttle cable is routed correctly this cost me a lot of time to figure out if it isn't right it will run like crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeletor Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Yes you need to remove wires from carbs, throttle, parking brake, and remove tors unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokeVW Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Thanks very much, I'll continue on with removing the control unit and wiring then.... I'll leave the needle alone and not worry about the washer, and I'll try to sort out how water is getting into the stator area. Oh, one last question... does it matter how this fuel valve is inserted as far as the thin wire loop used to hang it from the float? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokeVW Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Yes you need to remove wires from carbs, throttle, parking brake, and remove tors unit. I need to remove the parking brake switch as well? I wondered about that... it isn't in any of the wiring diagrams in my Clymer. With my Warrior, it was tied to the ignition system and would allow it to start and idle but not rev up or have any power if the parking brake was applied.... is it the same with this Banshee or does it tie into the TORS unit? What does it do in the TORS system? I understand the throttle and carb switches being used, but I can't figure out why the parking brake would be tied to the TORS. I disabled the switch on my Warrior after it acted up one day on me, but I can't recall if the circuit is broken or completed when you apply the parking brake, I'll have to take this one apart to see what it should be when the brake isn't applied, and then permanently make it a broken or completed circuit so I never have to worry about it. I also planned on adding a non-parking brake lever assembly, and thought I had read one of the Yamaha dirt bikes had the lever I need, any idea where (which model) to get a stock Yamaha clutch lever without the parking brake crap on it? I need to price one compared to an aftermarket lever like AVS or the like. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trxbansheer Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Got a question. I've got a 04 banshee with nos machine cool head, with toomey t6 piping with a customisable with dual k&ns. The jetting right now is a 290 main and a 25 pilot.. it smokes thick white smoke, it ran fine before this last gas tank. Should I go with a 300 main with 30 pilot with 32 to 1 gas oil mix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Got a question. I've got a 04 banshee with nos machine cool head, with toomey t6 piping with a customisable with dual k&ns. The jetting right now is a 290 main and a 25 pilot.. it smokes thick white smoke, it ran fine before this last gas tank. Should I go with a 300 main with 30 pilot with 32 to 1 gas oil mix? Try starting your own thread. White smoke as nothing to do with your jets. If it smells sweet, it's anti freeze. If stinky out right pipe it's crank seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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