turbowrenchhead Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 (edited) With the noss head that I run I have had some issues with the copper washers. I purchased vittos acorn nut kit. However they squish so much that they compress onto the studs. This makes for a very difficult head removal. Are there any disadvantages to running a head bolt with a flat flange? One can just use a lil silicone to seal the flange to the head to seal the coolant chamber. This would make a head removal much easier. Edited May 21, 2014 by turbowrenchhead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUILDER Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 The copper washers are really only there as a fail safe. As long as your O-Rings are all good there will be no water to leak out of the nuts. I have ran plenty of motors with no copper washers under the nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Studs don't wear threads out in alum cyls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 I tried just acorn nuts without washers, they leaked. There are some studs that the o rings don't seal off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 i use a lil bit of sealant on the threads and copper washers. something is up if they keep leaking tho, they normally dont. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 I wonder if steel washers and a bit of silicone work..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Copper is the perfect sealing washer as it's soft. Just look for fatter copper washers if yours are really thin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dixie normus Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 (edited) It blows using copper washers. I prefer the pro design/noss type that puts a o ring around each stud Edited May 22, 2014 by Dixie normus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m671054 Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Studs clamping load would be at the cyl deck. Bolt clamping load would be under bolt head. Studs are a much better design. Find some better washers check mcmaster carr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dixie normus Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Studs FTW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abe Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 I personally was curious why one needs the acorn nuts with NOSS style heads vs not needing them with a pro design even though both have pretty much the same design for orings around the studs. In my belief it's due to most people running the noss head use their oem studs which do not have a stepped up center section and have no more than a single thread edge or nothing contacting the oring to prevent the upward flow. the pro design studs and even the arp studs that I'm using have a longer and larger diameter center section that makes a seal against the oring to prevent upward flow of the coolant through the threads. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
registered user Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 ive got various engines. some have studs and others have bolts. never had a problem with either one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m671054 Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 ive got various engines. some have studs and others have bolts. never had a problem with either onewere they always bolts? Or was it designed with studs and you switched to bolts? As your aware bolt pattern/spacing and thread depth, along with head rigidity would all factor into your ability to maintain a good seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
registered user Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 (edited) no i havent put bolts in where studs originally were. ive never had the need to do that. got couple honda which use studs in the cylinder and a nut holds down the head. got couple ktm's and they use bolts that screw into the cylinder. both methods have worked fine Edited May 22, 2014 by registered user Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbowrenchhead Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 These cylinders I have now are at 66mm and they won't have a long life on the bike. I think I'm going to get some bolts today. My Noss head doesn't have seperate o rings for each stud. Just the main o rings for the head to seal it off from the dome and atmosphere. There are only two studs that are outside the main o ring that are not going through the coolant chamber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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