tdod101 Posted January 4, 2014 Report Posted January 4, 2014 Stock clutch ? Lock up clutch ? Pros cons and what else is there ? Quote
trickedcarbine Posted January 4, 2014 Report Posted January 4, 2014 (edited) Depends on power. In MY OPINION......... I feel that if there is a little extra money, almost any bike can benefit from a lockup. Slingshots with a stock modded cover are pretty cheap. The benefit in higher powered motors is very noticeable slip reduction/elimination under WOT and the ability to tune the clutch for launch or slip out of turns for Trail/dune guys. My favorite thing about a lock up on a trail or dune bike is the ability to run way light springs and it lets it almost feel like a new honda 4 poke. My bike has a lock up, Barnett 3&3 springs, ASV lever, fresh cable, with a good basket and inner hub. People get on it and ask how the hell it even hooks the clutch up with a pull that light. But it works and it's nice to ride all day compared to 10 years ago where guys just stuck in the heaviest springs they could pull. Guys will say spend the money elsewhere if the bike ain't a drag bike but look at the GNCC riders or MotoX riders, they all have lots of dollars invested in clutches designed to make riding easier, not harness high HP. Edited January 4, 2014 by trickedcarbine Quote
WINDYCITYJOHN400 Posted January 4, 2014 Report Posted January 4, 2014 7 plate clutches with all heavy springs will start slipping at around 65HP. (You can't "hear" it, but it's there) 8 plates can hold 65HP with 1/2 heavy and 1/2 stock but start slipping closer to 70HP. All heavy's will get you to about 75HP. Anything over 80HP is definitely Lock-up territory. So depending on what you want for clutch pull will dictate when you NEED to move to a lock-up. All of Trickedcarbine's input regarding clutch set-up and tuning is very valid. But I would add that I wouldn't just slap a lock-up on a stock tranny. I would only run a lock-up on a ProMod or Override. Many (but not all) trannys get hard to shift with an Arm style lock-up unless they are at least a ProMod. I can't speak for a slingshot style for trail riding. Quote
tdod101 Posted January 4, 2014 Author Report Posted January 4, 2014 Hmmm, clutch tuning is beyond my abilities but very willing to learn, the more you guys teach me the better understanding I'll have. When I do end up talking to a site sponsor I will see what they're input is on what I should get for my set up, I really do appreciate all the input guys, love this site! Quote
satts Posted January 4, 2014 Report Posted January 4, 2014 Yep I'm learning too tdod101. .i have been following you questions ,so I don't get "BASHED" lol,I wanted to know bou the lockup Quote
satts Posted January 4, 2014 Report Posted January 4, 2014 I will let you asked the questions ,I will take answers,lol Quote
oldskool Posted January 4, 2014 Report Posted January 4, 2014 Yep I'm learning too tdod101. .i have been following you questions ,so I don't get "BASHED" lol,I wanted to know bou the lockup lmao Quote
trickedcarbine Posted January 4, 2014 Report Posted January 4, 2014 7 plate clutches with all heavy springs will start slipping at around 65HP. (You can't "hear" it, but it's there) 8 plates can hold 65HP with 1/2 heavy and 1/2 stock but start slipping closer to 70HP. All heavy's will get you to about 75HP. Anything over 80HP is definitely Lock-up territory. So depending on what you want for clutch pull will dictate when you NEED to move to a lock-up. All of Trickedcarbine's input regarding clutch set-up and tuning is very valid. But I would add that I wouldn't just slap a lock-up on a stock tranny. I would only run a lock-up on a ProMod or Override. Many (but not all) trannys get hard to shift with an Arm style lock-up unless they are at least a ProMod. I can't speak for a slingshot style for trail riding. Yeah, definitely would want the tranny done. At a minimum, have a machinist do every other dog, machine the drum for a bearing, and have all the bolt ons. Even with the sling shots. Both styles of lock up will add to the stress on the tranny. Quote
Coupelx Posted January 4, 2014 Report Posted January 4, 2014 My thoughts are that for most play bikes a lockup is added cost, added stress, added weight and more shit to go wrong. if i want the clutch to slip i will slip it. Quality clutch kit, quality oil and regular changes go along way to holding power. but with that said i dont think old windy john is far off in his estimates if you ride hard. especially in the sand which is notorious for being a parts killer. i run an 8plate clutch with 2 unknown heavy springs and 4 stock springs. decent pull and plenty of grip. clutch kit is the $40 tusk kit. has about 2 years on it now and still going. Quote
Pastrykiller Posted January 4, 2014 Report Posted January 4, 2014 I have 3 recent dyno trips that show slippage. Dune port 56 hp stock motor "bad clutches and no lockup will ever fix". Replaced clutches with fzr600's and Toomey springs= Zero slippage 75 hp 358 cub pump gas. Slipped on fzr600 clutches with stock springs. Added a slingshot with 3 toomeys and=zero slippage 83 hp 421 cub. Slipped on fast hd clutches with hd springs. Added a slingshot and guess what. Zero slippage I personally would recommend a driveline or gigots slingshot to anyone with a bike that intends to add power. It's the cheaper route and you don't have to buy a new clutch cover. Quote
Pastrykiller Posted January 4, 2014 Report Posted January 4, 2014 My personal 421 race gas cub started out with a slingshot so I don't have any data to show other than it never slipped on 90+ Hp Quote
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