10 mil 75mm Twister Small Block

[trickedcarbine]

Well, I'm finally able to pop the clutch on my new build and I have decided on the Twister Small Block. I made this decision because if something happens In race season I can always keep pistons around and bore it and be at next weeks race instead of waiting for nikasil. On top of that there is the added cooling ability as well.

 

Now my question is, do I have Louie do the his CNC touch up or do I just buy it shelf stock and send it to someone else? I don't really know who is messing with these things and getting good results lately and I am NOT gonna send this thing to Kevin at Herr. Just haven't seen much on these things lately and wondered who is currently doing good things with them. Not looking for a drag motor, more like a clean up to crisp things up a little bit bottom - top if possible. Just never dealt with Louie and curious how his work would stack up.

[J-Madd]

I'd send it to a builder if I were you.

[n2otoofast4u]

So you are starting with a brand new fresh cyld that you are buying direct from twister? Louis can massage it for sure, but being what you are using it for I think you would be best to ask the question if just having the machine do a bit extra is ok or if there needs to be additional hand work to a builder who is a bit more familiar with the type of racing you are doing.

[trickedcarbine]

damn going for the big stroke eh!

 

 

I got a guy in canukia that runs a 4mil 75bore twister... no idea who did the work but the side his cyl is stamped PK.

 

shit if a 4mil 75bore twister is a 512.. wtf is a 10mil twister?

 

how come you decided on a 10mil... i know for turn around time due to nika is quicker... but isnt piston costs on the twister out of the roof?

 

sorry for the irrelevant Q's... but im curious why you going this route

 

 

plus in winter.. if you got heating issues... there's some other issues lol

All last year I himmed and hawed about the 10 because I didn't think the 10mm would live. But I've talked a ton with different builders and they say it is possible if I keep the compression/timing down some and gear it right so it's not up past 9,500 much. There is that kid TTbansheerida, that has had his together for some time and it is a 10mm cub. I just wanna build it as big as I can so I only do it once and be done(granted the crank lives). If not, then I'll go back to my passion 4 mil till I can build a big 4mm.

 

Oh, your right the pistons are $$$$$. But not much more then the pistons for the 535 cheetah I considered.

Sorry if the topic title is a little deceiving. Well, I'm finally able to pop the clutch on my new build and I have decided on the Twister Small Block. I made this decision because if something happens In race season I can always keep pistons around and bore it and be at next weeks race instead of waiting for nikasil. Add to that the cost of cheetah was a bit more before I even calculated the machine work and additional fixes and porting.

[trickedcarbine]

id imagine your builder passion which is one of the only builders I know that has bikes in TT / oval racing could get you in the right spot unless you wanted to try someone different for fun...

Who knows, but I think I am open to having it done by someone else.

[trickedcarbine]

So you are starting with a brand new fresh cyld that you are buying direct from twister? Louis can massage it for sure, but being what you are using it for I think you would be best to ask the question if just having the machine do a bit extra is ok or if there needs to be additional hand work to a builder who is a bit more familiar with the type of racing you are doing.

Yeah, new from Louie. I guess I wonder how well he can massage them and was hoping someone has seen his personal stuff run.

[n2otoofast4u]

I doubt there's many of his motors out there built specific for What you do. There might be a few that are running them that they bought complete and are using them as purchased but I doubt that's the feedback you are looking for. How long did Louis say it would be for you to get a cyld?

[trickedcarbine]

I think the bonus with these big engines is the fact you dont need to constantly ride your clutch down and feather it to keep the revs up to produce power. wont need to rev these to the peak to get where we want. just results in us beating less on them to get power. If what I expect is right... we will have to be tame with our throttle control instead of just constantly pinning it waiting for it to get that peak rpm.

Once I built my 4 mil motors, I didn't quite have to use the clutch as much. I will say that my 4mm big bore stock cylinder wasn't as fast as my new passion motor but due to displacement alone it would come out of the tight stuff with a bit less effort. As for keeping it in the power I started to tune the clutch so that the lockup does most of the work.(toasting clutches though) Only problem is our tracks are almost always different so I hope to get enough info logged so that I will be able to pull up to a certain size track and know exactly what setup should be in the clutch. But not to get to far off, you are right. The bigger motor will definitely make riding far more effortless. As for having to much power, nah. Never. If your cub starts to blow the tires off, start messing with that lockup. There are things you can do that are a bit Un conventional that keep it in the rev but the tires won't blow off. Just takes a lot of work.

[trickedcarbine]

Man, such a bummer that a bunch of the guys that run these just aren't active on the forum much any more.

 

Next inquiry: Would I be right in assuming an engine this size would be better off with the larger intake from the CR125? I am also curious as to whether or not I should do the big flange exhaust or just the regular banshee sized exhaust flange but run small flange/ big bore pipes?

[Coupelx]

Jared/bigred350x was a big fan of billet stuff but i havent seen here in while. He is pretty sharp.

[Redline Racing]

I've built quite a few of the 10 mm 75 mm small blocks. I'd run stock style cages unless you can get the older v2 cr125 cages.

I'd get it without sleeves in it to grind transfer tunnels easier or have lew cut them.

I like lew alot but he can be VERY difficult to get parts from sometime.

I would do a 521 super cub. Start with a serval to get port timings where you want them. Spend the time on getting pipes setup for your RPM range and it will rip. I did one on gas with 41's and inframe sheares it was little pipey but pulled like crazy. I know with a couple simple changes it would be way better than a twister. You can also get the parts very easily. Cam

[ban565]

Louie told me to use small flange pipes and stock style reed cages unless you are building a drag motor. I have the same motor you looking at building.

[n2otoofast4u]

Tricked have you talked with Louis on the phone about your thoughts?

[trickedcarbine]

Some on the phone, but I just would rather have an idea of what to say over the phone so I don't waste to much of his time.

[trickedcarbine]

Ok, finally bought the last few remaining parts to rebuild my 4 mil, now it's back to buying expensive junk for the Twister.

 

I'm hoping to get the exhaust next month. I already have Shearer small bore small flange inframes and Rockets but this thing will be over 500cc so I'm thinking I need to get a set of big bore pipes. But with this cylinder I can run either small or big flange. So would any one think I should opt for the big flange as well? The bike is basically hot lapped for 15/20 laps, so I'm not sure if a motor that big will be ok with just the big bore or if I need the bigger flange as well? (64 stroke X 75 bore, on race fuel)