CrashRyan Posted August 10, 2013 Report Share Posted August 10, 2013 So i started building my first banshee is January and I have run into a problem im hoping you guys can help me with any and all suggestions are welcome but please read exactly what i am dealing with before just thowing out a random comment (because you all know it happens here lol) Ever since the beginning i have had an electrical issue which when you break down the banshee electrical system it is very simple, but this is what is happening. I have an OEM coil checks out, OEM CDI checks out (put it on a buddies machine and it kicked right over), OEM stator checks out, aftermarket flywheel, wiring harness has the key switch removed and handle bar switch is still functional. now that you have the background on the electrical system here is my problem... My bike runs great (sounds like an issue right?) for about 2+ hours then i have stator failure. When testing the stator the yellow and black have continuity, the striped red and green wires have continuity, but the solid red and solid green do not have continuity. This has happened to two stators in the past month. My quetion is ..... Can a aftermarket flywheel creat to much power or generat to much current for the stator to handle? if you have any help for me please feel free to ask questions and feel free to make suggestions. I already have purchased a OEM flywheel but have not purchased a new stator yet... just looking for answers to my question thanks for the help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandking Posted August 10, 2013 Report Share Posted August 10, 2013 One of my bikes did something similar and it turned out to be a bad ground. It would only act up when warmed up and under load like going up a steep hill. Wouldn't run right until it cooled down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WINDYCITYJOHN400 Posted August 10, 2013 Report Share Posted August 10, 2013 Contact Evan at RaceTech for both your new stator needs, as well as experienced help with your electrical diagnosis. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrashRyan Posted August 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 okay ill see what i can figure out thanks for your guys thoughts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrashRyan Posted August 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 so just thought i would post this up if anyone else ever comes by it you will know. the after market stator that i had was an RMStator that actually has magnets that are way to strong for the amount of current the banshee wiring system can handle. Basicly what i was doing was frying the circuts on my stators every time i went riding. Evan was telling my that alot of companies are trying to do a upgrade flywheel but dont pay much attention to the tolerances of the wiring system therefor they actually overdo the upgrade and cause problems with the actual wiring in the system. hope this helps you guys or at least someone in the future. lesson learned never touch an RMSator flywheel again. or much else aftermarket for that matter lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mailman Posted August 14, 2013 Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 Good info. CrashRyan. Thanks for posting up the solution. Most guys have found that the oem banshee electrical is best for reliability and hp too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted August 14, 2013 Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 NEVER run any flywheel other than OEM used stators are just that used. if you have bought ones that had issues later welp thats probably why they got sold.. the only stators i sell that are used i know for a fact ran or i ran on one of my bikes.. electrical issues can just "happen" also stuff breaks.. wiring issues are very easy to find IF you know what to look for. loosing cont on the red/green after its warm indicates a broken wire in the stator windings. stator heats up wire looses contact. stator cools down wire gets contact again.. make sure your chassis ground is solid. the OEM one at the back by the cdi breaks often OR gets a lil loose and will still make the bike run but has issues. i personally like to ground the coil neg right there at the mounting points. also clean to bare steel on the coil mount and also use dielectric grease on all your ground connections. make sure your stator ground is solid on the stator plate. that it isnt rusty or jacked up. also check the stator plate just incase its some cheap ass painted cast ones. ( only seen that a few times) the motor ground is very important and that lil bitty stator ground wire is all it has. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted August 14, 2013 Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 The timing can be off with the aftermarket flywheels as well. As far as all the grounds, they are not needed as I've argued before, but don't hurt for sure. The black wires go back to the stator for the ground, and the stator is grounded to the motor which is grounded to the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrashRyan Posted August 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 Thanks for all the comments guys you have all been a huge help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted August 16, 2013 Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 Or the rivits loosen up until they shear off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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