stoddardshee Posted July 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 haha i hear that on the jetting. i have all the mods in the first post again: porting (jeff will let me know what they think when they get a look at the jugs (hopefully wednesday) 65mm wiseco pistons wiseco 4 mil crank billet intake with 33mm pwk keihin carbs dynatek cdi (no advance on crank) set on tune 1 k&n pods paul turner high revs amsoil 40:1 interceptor oil (know i mixed all tanks for sure) stock head and .080 head gasket (sent head to jeff and gunna see if he can verify cc's and maybe bore it for the stroker to keep it stock looking) vforce 4 reeds br9es plugs the carb i have a 45 pilots with 2 1/2 turns out on screw and cgl needle on middle clip (know this is good as plugs have always been on the richer side but not too far) and wot i have a 165 mains is this too lean on the mains? seems a little big almost or equal to others running somewhat similar builds im at 1500 -2000 elevation it hasnt been over 90 and 60% humidity here. the 165's were stock in these pwk's so maybe i need a little more but i dont think jetting would be it as the right side was still like perfect. ill post up some pix of my plugs i pulled the right was still brown and the left (side burned up) was pure white. pipe was all white inside as far as i could see. i still have the rollover valve in so ill gut that right away as i have seen the left carb fuel line a lil low a couple random times (have a T from the stock petcock with the right carb going straight through and the left is T'ed off....is there a better way to split the lines or maybe time for a pingel? whats the limit of the stock valve 70 hp or so? i also have my wot plug chop so ill post them pix up too if ya guys care to take a look thanks for all the help so far as i mentioned i already tore down post catastrophe so i didnt check the leak down but when i reassemble ill make sure to seal er tight again. also is the best way to clean the bottom end to split the cases or could i just flush the bottom with solvent or something (could use a suction gun to suck er all out? thanks again you guys' help rocks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey83 Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 split it. They're too easy to split to just try to flush it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoddardshee Posted July 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 Yeah definately true...trans better last as thisll be the 5th time in 3 weeks i changed it haha... Do ya guys think i should do a pingel valve or should i be fine guttn the gas cap...also FAST has the cylinder nykisil coating...would it be worth the extra coin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoddardshee Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 (edited) Plug chop left cylinder pre destruction WOT Plugs after destruction left cylinder on left side obviously Meltdown in left cylinder Left Piston Left Piston again Right cylinder WOT Plug Chop pre choping Edited July 10, 2013 by stoddardshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoddardshee Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Looking at these more and more im guessin i ran that carb dry....definately gunna gut the cap for sure but what do you guys think when is it time for a pingel valve? also what do you do for filters or just rely on the sock in the tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 I still think it developed an air leak, but by not doing a leakdown test before disassembly, your chances of finding it are slim. One possibility that will be obvious on teardown, is if the stator side crank bearing is going to pieces and destroyed the seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoddardshee Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Ill make sure to check the crank out when i split the cases to clean it out....if the bearings are fine i suppose it wont hurt to put new seals in huh. the way it looks this crank hasnt been in there long so they should be good but ill check the bearings. what are some tips on assembly to keep this thing sealed? rtv everything both sides of gaskets and all or what? i had new gaskets and everything was properly torqued and sealed....these cant be that bad or no one would keep em on account of buring em up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Maybe that's your problem. Gas dissolves RTV. Use Threebond 1211 or Yamahabond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 no rtv......SOME people will say that it works for them and that its fine to use...blah blah blah. But you wont find any of our site sponsors using it to seal cases up period. On gaskets such as the clutch gaskets, I usually take a little grease and wipe a thin layer on those....that way they still seal, and are able to be removed gently and reused. The exception is the reed gaskets. If you talk to Jeff he will also tell you to watch out for the cylinder to reed cage gasket. IF they leak there during your leak down, just pull the reeds off and then use a layer of the case sealant and reapply the gaskets. Yes there is a downside of using the reed gaskets with case sealant.......there is a 90% chance that you will need new ones when you remove them. I usually replace them no matter what........but as a side note, try and find a powersports store and see if they can order some for you. The powersports store near me can order them in a 5-pack of gaskets for $7....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoddardshee Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 I guess i used permatex right stuff...use it all the time at work on everything...before jeff sends the cylinders back ill ask him for a couple tubes of that...anyone know of locally bought alternatives? I used gm anerobic sealant on the case halves as it seals rock hard not gummy like cheap rtv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 You actually want the rubbery kinda gummy texture but you want something that is oil AND gas safe. The vibrations will actually rattle cracks into the rock hard stuff. You should only need one tube of the case sealant from Jeff as the stuff goes a LONG way......ive split my motor 3 times and my buddies 3 times and I still have a little more than half of a tube left. You don't wind up using that much on the cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoddardshee Posted September 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 (edited) Ok guys its been a long time but I sent everything to FAST and he straightened the crank and ported the cases and now I've been waiting one month (since he sent back the crank and cases and said 2 weeks then and 2 months total) for him to finish. I'm waiting on stroker domes and a head, and my cylinders to be bored and ported out to mid top power band with t-5's. anyone know of another builder that does just as good of work? Jeff is just so busy I'm tired of waiting hell it's already 50*f out. I need this done in a week....I knew he was busy when I sent me down but he said he's cramming for 2 sand rides common up I can't believe everyone he's rushin done has been waiting since before July! Edited September 15, 2013 by stoddardshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juss11 Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 I sent my stuff to Keven (herrjuggs) for a 4mill dune port/bore etc. Had everthing back in 2 weeks. I have never had Jeff do any engine work, but I have bought a lot of parts from him & he sends fast!! Both are great guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ore rider Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 stodderdshee, in post 16 you mentioned that you have the "T" fitting in you're gas line installed so that perpendicular leg leads to the left carb while the straight through ends are connected to the petcock and the right carb. I would recommend changing it so that the perpendicular leg is connected to the petcock as your current setup may cause the left carb to receive less gas than the right carb. It wouldn't cost anything and would eliminate one more potential fuel issue once you get it all back together. Or you could just get a dual pingle petcock and be done with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do-work-son Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 If you need it done in a week you might just wanna find a good used set of cly and piston on here that are ported for a 4 mil .. Herr juggs does awesome work and you won't be disapointed and he is super fast but I'm pretty sure he quotes two weeks! Call him or email him and ask kevinherr@herrjugsracing.com 858-945-3622 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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