stoddardshee Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Ok guys first post so bear with me please. A month ago i bought a basket banshee (all tore down) had been partially parted out. Got it together two weeks ago and ran great. Looked ljke a fresh build with welded wiseco 4mil crank, wiseco 65mm pistons and unknown porting (but looks to be good and corrected for 4mil and had a FAST sticker) so hopefully good port job. Also i installed a paul turner high rev pipes, new keihin 33mm pwks (165m, 45p 2 1/2 turns, and the cgl needle on middle 1500ft) billet manifold, k&n pods, dynatek ign stock curves, no advance, br9es, vforce 4 reeds, amsoil interceptor 40:1. So been running great both carbs synced and starts and ran good. I plug chopped wot and had to lean the pilot some. Plugs look good still even maybe a tad rich. Locked it up wot on highway (im licensed) and the left side burned up. Plug and pipe are white. Right side both are nice and brown and piston looks awsome. I just pulled both bowls and found no debris in left or right. Since this has ran its always had a little more oil residue out left pipe not much just a little more than the right. Whole thing is tightly sealed as ive heard the stories and plugs always checked every other ride and been dark never white. A little before this i was drifting gravel roads in 4 th and it dogged a little and was puking badly burning smelled smoke out left side only (did it once before same side) i upshifted and babied it 1 mile and it gradually cleared up and ran great again (didnt check plug to see if stuck rich or lean). When it went i was halfway through the powerband in 6th so i doubt an airleak would affect it that bad as i was wot and it tested good before i pulled her down. Im thinking carb issue and am scared to put em back on. I bought em off ebay and heard the fake kiehins and these look legit and new. Please help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfrjag Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Did you try doing a leakdown? Those billet manifolds are known to have serious air leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoddardshee Posted July 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Yupp was done when i assembled was tighter than turttles ass...thing idled great and ran great cept for the two times she smoked and smelled burnt!.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee760 Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Also wide open throtle pulls in 6th gear is a big load on the motor and you need to run it richer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fappy'97 Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 was tighter than turttles ass... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Did you try doing a leakdown? Those billet manifolds are known to have serious air leaks.After it melted down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey83 Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 When it went i was halfway through the powerband in 6th so i doubt an airleak would affect it that bad as i was wot and it tested good before i pulled her down. Im thinking carb issue and am scared to put em back on. I bought em off ebay and heard the fake kiehins and these look legit and new. Please help! Why do you say this? If it was tight and sealed it would do good wot pull. Then it developed an air leak and went lean on your half throttle long distance run. Do a leakdown test on it before you rip it apart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoddardshee Posted July 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Jugs are already sent to fast...i understand a small leak at part throttle will skew jetting and air fuel mixture but at wot there isnt hardly any vacuum behind the carb just flow so wot shouldnt make a difference and i shouldve been way lean at idle or a lean decel popping (highest vacuum) besides airleaks are most common when cold. At least all this is my experienve on new cars not powrrsports...im a car mechanic...just new to two strokes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoddardshee Posted July 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Also that same cylinders always been a little more oilier than the right but never shown lean on the plugs.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoddardshee Posted July 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Both times it smoked and stank...it was on this same left cylinder...would it smoke like that lean?...also stinks real bad like burning...noticed smoking at wot on one side bad let off n coast and continues to smoke whiteish blue stop n revved a couple times and let er idle n came out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 could be a leak between cases that only happens when it's hot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoddardshee Posted July 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 How bout a pingel? I never looked at the fuel lines while wot that long....do i have enuf fuel supply on the stock valve?...just find it hard to beleive an air leak...it ran so good to just be an oh whoops meltdown in .02 seconds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey83 Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Its either air leak or that left bowl ran out of fuel. If you did a leakdown test after rebuild then why not just do one right now so you can either eliminate a lot of stuff or start looking for the leak. There have been several people I know that had a leak only when warming.or running hard. Sloppy cases will allow stuff to move around and start leaking by. Somebidy already mention that your intake are notorious for leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 well....you could have had an airleak develop....its rare to find a motor that was sealed begin to leak....but it IS possible. Also running a motor at WOT with too lean of a main jet (which controls 3/4-wide open) can melt it down. Yes doing plug chops is a HUGE part of tuning.....but if your tuning it on the ragged edge of being a balance of perfect and lean.....it can be too much for long pulls. You did mention a pingle.....that is a good possibility that you can't supply enough fuel/oil mix while your running your motor hard. Have Jeff check out your porting and let you know what type of port job it has. ALSO.....check your gas cap....if it still has the roll over valve inside of it (flip cap over and look at bottom....remove the 3 screws and literally pull all the guts out and throw everything away). I have been told multiple times by Jeff to gut the cap as it will limit the flow of fuel in any built up motor on the banshee. while your at it I would suggest pulling your current fuel valve out of the tank and making positively sure that the screen in the tank is clear and debris free. Let us know if you have any other questions or info on what could have happened. On a side note....whenever a 2 stroke motor burns down you should make sure to do a compression test AND a leakdown test to help ensure the possibility of an air leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted July 9, 2013 Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 ?...just find it hard to beleive an air leak...it ran so good to just be an oh whoops meltdown in .02 seconds They always run the best just before failure. The closer to the edge the quicker it happens. There are some that have melted down during a dyno pull, just had to try one size smaller so they could claim having a bigger dick.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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