ROB@UNLIMITED SALES&SERVICE Posted October 13, 2003 Report Posted October 13, 2003 I'M BRAND NEW TO BANSHEE'S, BUT I'VE BEEN READING LOTS OF POSTS AND HAVE COME UP WITH SOME MODS. AND WOULD LIKE SOME INPUT, INSTEAD OF ASKING WHAT TO DO TO MAKE POWER. WELL HERE GOES ITS A 97 SHEE AND I'M GOING TO BE RIDDING ON FAST TRAILS AND MX TRACKS (but of course i'll be dragracing my buddy's). -I JUST PUT A CRANK AND TOP-END IN HER (0 hours) -I HAVE PORTED THE CYLINDERS AND REEDCAGES.(FWI.i have lots of experience with porting) -PUT A + 4 KEYWAY, INLINE COOLERS,PUT 6 1 INCH FILTERED VENTS IN THE AIRBOX LID, ELIMINATED THE TORS,1/2 REED BLOCK SPACERS, AND BOYESEN REEDS -I ALSO HAVE A SET OF DYNO-PORT NEEDLES AND AN ASSORTMENT OF JETS THAT ARE SUPPOSED TO WORK WITH T-5 PIPES THAT I'M GOING TO TRY. -IT'S GOT FMF'S ON IT.K&N SINGLE FILTER WITH OUTERWEAR IN STOSK BOX, AND ABOOST BOTTLE (sounds like bottle does nothing) -I PLAN TO MILL .030 OFF THE HEAD(to try and achieve 160 psi.)LIGHTEN FLYWHEEL BY 9oz.,PUT AN AFTERMARKET CLUTCH OR RUN AN RZ350 AND SPRINGS,RUN WATER WETTER (to help keep her cooler) -I ALSO PLAN TO SHORTEN THE ARM BY 2 INCHES. -SHOULD I PUT V-FORCE CAGES OR RAD VALVES IN ? OR KEEP THE STOCK CAGES THAT I PORTED ? -SHOULD I OFF WELDED THE CRANK ?? - CAN ANYONE THINK OF ANY OTHER CHEEP OR DO-IT-YOURSELF THINGS THAT WILL WORK ?? -WHAT KIND OF HP WILL SHE BE MAKING ---LETS HEAR IT GUYS Quote
Blue Duece Posted October 13, 2003 Report Posted October 13, 2003 what kind of port did you do?........if you dont have the pipe yet maybe a lower end pipe? paul turner maybe....what kind of gearing? my guess would be depending on your port high 50's or low 60's on the HP, just a guess though...... Quote
ROB@UNLIMITED SALES&SERVICE Posted October 13, 2003 Author Report Posted October 13, 2003 THE PIPES WERE ALREADY ON THE SHEE, AS WELL AS THE FILTER, AND THE BOTTLE. IT ALSO HAS FMF SILENCERS (just incase some one asks) THE PORT JOB WAS VERY SIMULAR TO "RACE LOGIC'S" SPORT PORT(www,racelogic.com/overview)THIS COMPANY DOES GREAT WORK. THEY SELL TEMPLETS FOR PORTING (i'd be willing to go in on a set to compare it to our port jobs, if anyone is interested ?) SHE HAS STOCK GEARING NOW (i figured i'd ride her then change to what she needs) BUT I'M OPEN FOR SUGGESTIONS !!! Quote
banshee_rider95 Posted October 13, 2003 Report Posted October 13, 2003 Yeah sounds good..but get that crank trued and welded it will save u time and money in the long run Quote
ROB@UNLIMITED SALES&SERVICE Posted October 13, 2003 Author Report Posted October 13, 2003 THANKS WHAT DOES IT GENERALLY COST TO HAVE THE CRANK WELDED ? AND DOES IT HAVE TO BE BALANCED ? WHERE DO THEY WELD THE CRANK ? I'M ASKING THIS BECAUSE I'M A MACHINIST AND ALSO TIG WELD ,AND I'M WONDERING IF I CAN DO IT MYSELF. Quote
txblueshee Posted October 13, 2003 Report Posted October 13, 2003 You'll love the cut swingarm if you ever cut it, if you plan on doing mx I would stay w/ the fatties b/c the T5's require ALOT more clutch work. You'll be making some pretty kick ass power, then I would do chassis mods. If I were to do my mods over it woud be like this: Intake Shocks Cut Swingarm Pipes Tires In that order!!! I suggest you try out a 15t front sprocket, you'll have plenty of power to pull it. It makes the 'shee just pull FOREVER in 3rd, 4th and 5th. That exrta little bit in 2nd/3rd helps you clear those jumps that you just need that extra little bit. Mike Quote
ROB@UNLIMITED SALES&SERVICE Posted October 13, 2003 Author Report Posted October 13, 2003 :wink: THANKS GUYS KEEP THEM COMMING DON'T BE SHY :wink: I'M PULLING THE CRANK BACK OUT, AND WOULD LOVE TO HEAR OF MORE THINGS TO DO. ALSO WHAT IS THE DEAL WITH THE O-RINGS IN THE STOCK CLUTCH ?? GET RID OF THEM ?? WHAT TYPE OF CHASSI MODS DO YOU GUYS DO ?? "IF THERE ARE ANY GUYS WITH LOTS OF BANSHEE KNOWLEDGE THAT WOULD RATHER TALK OTO ME ON THE PHONE PM ME WITH YOUR #, OR PM ME FOR MY # Quote
Banchetta Posted October 13, 2003 Report Posted October 13, 2003 Ok here we go. :twisted: First, of all, the high rev pipes are great for open riding like desert and high speed riding where your always at peak rpms. Your style riding would be better w/ a set of midrange pipes. I run PT mids and love them. I've also like the Fmf sst's and Bills pipes for all around low end and top end power. A shorter swingarm is a must if your running knobby tires. Take 2" out. Excellent mod, not only for traction, but makes dramatic changes in handling as well since the rider is more over the wheels. One of my best mods... Keep the reed spacers out. I lost 2hp on the dyno w/ them across the curve. They make it hard to get the carbs out to. Remove the air box lid or cut the end of the lid off right behind the clips so you still have all 4 clips. Cut the last 1.5" off. Makes a huge difference. The vents won't do nothing especially being in the top of the lid. Next, gear it up to a 15 tooth front sprocket. You might even be able to pull higher depending how well tuned it is and what pipes you run. The +4 timing is a great choice. Shaving .030 off the head is a lot and I don't suggest it. I know other peeps haven't had problems, but one of my friends did. He shaved .025 off his head and put holes in the pistons even w/ 93 octane. Rebuilt it and did it again. After 3 sets of pistons, he went back to a stock head and problem solved. I run a head mod and love it. Never had a problem. Shaving the head is a cheap upgrade, but can be very expensive if it doesn't work.... Reed petals are great and will work just as good w/ your ported cages as anything else. Save your money on the cages. Get the crank welded and trued. Cost 75 bucks or do it your self. You might need a better clutch. The stocker won't handle 50hp. Find a clutch setup that pulls easy. I like the Duncan clutch for this reason. The is a clutch lock up assembly on the market now for the shee. They use it on street bikes forever and works well. Look into that while it apart. I'm guessing you'll be in the 50's for hp, which is respectable. I'm pushing 53hp across 2000rpms. My shee doesn't peak at just one point of rpm. It has a flat dome shape and a wide powerband of about 3800rpms. It pulls hard at the bottom and doesn't stop. Thats why I suggest the midrange pipes. Thats for motor mods, but power is useless w/o the chassis mods. Move your foot pegs back 2". Some guys use blaster foot pegs which move back 2" and lower 1". I just cut and rewelded mine. Cut and reweld your shifter and brake lever 2" shorter also. Shifting will be easier at the touch believe or not. I redrilled another hole where the brake lever connects to the piston (whatchamacallit), so the leverage = out. Another good mod is the shift star. It makes shifting a little easier. 2+2 or 2+1 arms are great improves stability. A must on a track. Get front shocks to go w/ them. Major improvement even on 4" bumps.... Tires, you want a round tall front tires. Don't get a flat front tire. They bite too hard on roots in the trails and rip the steering out of your hands. They also make the shee dart hard to one side when hitting ruts or hills. I like the tallness due to easier rolling over objects and bumps along w/ less resistance and rotation on the bearings. For rear tires, get a knobby like the Razor, shredder, holeshots, fast trekkers, turf tamers, etc. Most mx guys run the 18" turf tamers on the track, most common in my area is the 20" razors for sand pits and trails. I just bought the shredders and like them just as much as the razor. Tallness of the rear tire depends on riding terrain. Some go w/ the 22" for rocky trails and better ground cleareance. Mx guys use the 18" for less sidewall and more ability to slide. Thats what I got right now, and I'm sure I'll come up w/ more. Quote
ROB@UNLIMITED SALES&SERVICE Posted October 19, 2003 Author Report Posted October 19, 2003 :shock: :? :roll: COME ON GUYS DON'T JUST READ,GIVE YOUR THOUGHTS !!!! Quote
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