KozyHeat Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 I don't think the leakdown would've cought a leaking spark plug because it never weeped from the head until today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 I don't think the leakdown would've cought a leaking spark plug because it never weeped from the head until today. Are you serious dude? When you do the test and have a leak and doesn't hold pressure, you have to check EVERY possible place. Ya check the trans vent for leaking 3bond seal, they can leak @keyway/collar clutch side , oh did I mention they can leak at the spark plugs? O, but you already found that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 My spark plug came loose and I blew the left side out - What does that have to do with crank seals, tranny vent, and a leakdown. Obviously wasn't the problem. My plug literally blew out or was undertorqued Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 You don't get it. Your plug backed out from detonation caused by an air leak elsewhere. But you don't know that because you refused to do a leakdown test after you put the top end together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 I suppose. I should have noticed it but I was upjetted so far I didnt feel it. Maybe slightly, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 I suppose. I should have noticed it but I was upjetted so far I didnt feel it. Maybe slightly, Yeah don't worry you don't have to take responsibility. Totally the bikes fault. No negligence on your part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 sorry for ruining a beloved Yamaha Banshee. I will have to do better next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted January 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 My carburetors were out of sync. I messed it up bad when I tried to get it to Idle earlier that day. I did not realize how critical the sync is! In either case - to loose a motor over something so simple as a leakdown test would be silly. I have to do them now when I assemble a motor. Probably be a few months before I throw it all together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted February 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2013 Its messed up pretty bad. Did leakdown today - None noted along the case or crank seals or bolts or base or head. In the beginning the spark plug leaked on the right side ( opposite of the blown one ) but I tightened that ( it was a used plug ). Had it up to 60psi by accident ( unfamiliar automotive cylinder leak tester ) - SHOT out my 1/2in pvc cap Scary! Better that then the metal Expansion plug. That would be like a bullet. Tore down the motor Heads messed up a little Cylinder is really good for how much metal was in there. I will clean up on the next overbore. I checked the lower bearings for play when I installed them last time. They didnt move forward and back. Only side to side. Used a flashlight and I couldn't see any rust or anything like that. How did I break my lower bearing? Spinning the motor too fast with my small tires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 This could not have been more easy... your love is a verb Here in my room this side is fine lookin' Not done yet. Just remove the 2 screws from the bearing retainer on the clutch shaft! Thats it! Dont mess with anything else. I removed the lower stuff because I will mod it, and soak my cases so they can be shot with some paint. oah well, its done its done WOWWWW That needs to be MATCHED soooo badly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 What would you do? used crank ? or 2 x $55 magnum connecting rod kits on my stock crank ? Could be welded too if you guys deem it. That is option one. Another option is to go for a +4 that includes crank + piston set as one assembly Also many in-between options as well. My crank pin washer left some HUGE chunks. one is an inch long :\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 psh nevermind on that magnum stuff... """WISECO CRANK REBUILD KIT CONNECTING ROD KIT""" seems to run about $150 in a quick look - but it includes both kits, not just ONE... so that is definitely an option in the budget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HolySheet Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 If all it needs is rods, then get a stock stroke hot rods kit. Unless you plan on going all out and stroking it, I would say no to welding the crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Thanks. I have somebody who offered to press in rod kits if thats the path I wanted to choose. I thought the kit was a lot more. :)f Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted February 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 I am getting ready for some case cleanup. I haven't done this before but check it out. The paper template is a replica of my cylinder mating surface. the black is what I could potentially take out on the cylinder as well as the case. I still need to lay it on my case and mark it but I was just wondering about the transfers because I have seen them opened up before on other machines - but specifically not on the Banshee. I don't know the specific requirements for a gasket and how much mating surface it must have to fully seal without leaking for the base but I just picked the smallest part (approx 3.88mm) and rounded it up a tiny bit to an easy 4mm. Then I traced that around the gasket outer edge 4mm carefully.I like it but I just don't know for sure yet if I will remove that metal from my cylinder & case. There isn't any stud holes/case holes to hit if I do that. There is room - Any advice against hogging it out a bit more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.