Motor build types

[Fakkundo]

Hi guys,

 

I've been looking for a topic like this for a long time but I didn't find nothing related. This is the thing, I'm gettin introduced into the motor work and looking for ideas for my current build. I've noticed on several posts, build descriptions including words as "Serval", "Stroker", "Cub", "Wampus", "4mil", "10mil", etc.

I've an idea about the meaning of these builds, but I couldn't find a specific definition for each motor work. Could someone clarify these "regular" concepts, or provide some information about?

 

Thanks,

[ginger]

Hi guys,

 

I've been looking for a topic like this for a long time but I didn't find nothing related. This is the thing, I'm gettin introduced into the motor work and looking for ideas for my current build. I've noticed on several posts, build descriptions including words as "Serval", "Stroker", "Cub", "Wampus", "4mil", "10mil", etc.

I've an idea about the meaning of these builds, but I couldn't find a specific definition for each motor work. Could someone clarify these "regular" concepts, or provide some information about?

 

Thanks,

 

 

Its the type of motor work done.

 

Cub is a type of cylinder that the motor will use.

 

stroker is a motor with more stroke then a stock motor. 4mil and 10 mil are versions of strokers. 4mil has 4mm more stroke and 10 mil has 10mm more stroke, they also make 7mil and pretty much anything you can imagine.

[gotta_goatsfast]

That is a LOT of information to cover.

 

Why don't you tell us a little more about your banshee, your riding style, your 2 stroke experience, the type of riding you do and the terrain you do it on, and an aproximate budget. We'll be able to give you a better idea to take to one of our site sponsors who will further help you decide what you need and want. If you're looking for general terms, browse through the MX, Dune, and drag sections (don't use the search function, just scroll through the sub-forums) and click on what ever interests you.

[ticktock]

It was tough. Google is a bitch. This topic is brought up every 4 months so finding info is easy. Best of luck

 

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=124606&st=0

 

Adam

[Fakkundo]

Its the type of motor work done.

 

Cub is a type of cylinder that the motor will use.

 

stroker is a motor with more stroke then a stock motor. 4mil and 10 mil are versions of strokers. 4mil has 4mm more stroke and 10 mil has 10mm more stroke, they also make 7mil and pretty much anything you can imagine.

 

Thanks for your reply, I guess "Xmil" describes the crank stroke. 4mil seems to be the regular setup for most bikes here

 

 

That is a LOT of information to cover.

 

Why don't you tell us a little more about your banshee, your riding style, your 2 stroke experience, the type of riding you do and the terrain you do it on, and an aproximate budget. We'll be able to give you a better idea to take to one of our site sponsors who will further help you decide what you need and want. If you're looking for general terms, browse through the MX, Dune, and drag sections (don't use the search function, just scroll through the sub-forums) and click on what ever interests you.

 

Thanks for your comments gotta_gofast. About my bike, it's basically a MX setup (LT setup, wider front/rear ends and basic motor add-ins. You can see more details here http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=153487&st=0&p=1327642entry1327642). It's my 4th Banshee, I ride only at sand. Want to get some extra power, but only for Dune/Play, not drag or track racing. I actually wanted to get the specific descriptions about the standard, most common motor works to create a chart including some details as make, description, bore, estimated HP, use, etc. (this will be useful for anyone looking for the available options)

 

It was tough. Google is a bitch. This topic is brought up every 4 months so finding info is easy. Best of luck

 

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=124606&st=0

 

Adam

 

Thanks for your reply Adam, found that post really useful. I'll keep lookin' for related posts and see what shows up

[Jereme6655]

since you said your looking for a description of the power on each of these types of motors........i suggest you look in the dyno room section of our website. There you'll be able to see the peak power and torque and if you know how to read them you'll be able to see just how quick the powerband comes on and where about in the rpm range that it hits at.

 

But dont forget to make sure you look at what other bolt on mods that may be accenting the motor.....ie pipes, reeds, intakes, filter setups.......pipes especially will make your motor jump up faster on the low end or top out higher than others....

 

Most banshees came from the factory making about 30-35hp stock.

[ticktock]

The forum search tool sucks. Search google then choose more results from BHQ. That's normally how I find things

[jbooker82]

Thanks for your reply, I guess "Xmil" describes the crank stroke. 4mil seems to be the regular setup for most bikes here

 

 

Yes because a 4 mill stroker crank drops right in. If you go with a 7 or 10 mill you have to cut trenches in the crank cases so the rods dont scrap as they spin.

 

 

All stroker cranks require you do something with the clearance between the Piston and Cylinder Head. The most prefered method is using a cool head or stock head that has been cut deeper. Approx 2mm. The stoker crank causes the pistons to fall 2mm farther down, and pops up 2mm out of the cylinder. The other option is to use a thick 2mm spacer plate between the cylinders, and crank case. The bad thing with this is it alters the port timing. It causes all ports to open sooner wich might not be ideal with your current porting or riding style.

[mike0chek]

Yes because a 4 mill stroker crank drops right in. If you go with a 7 or 10 mill you have to cut trenches in the crank cases so the rods dont scrap as they spin.

 

 

All stroker cranks require you do something with the clearance between the Piston and Cylinder Head. The most prefered method is using a cool head or stock head that has been cut deeper. Approx 2mm. The stoker crank causes the pistons to fall 2mm farther down, and pops up 2mm out of the cylinder. The other option is to use a thick 2mm spacer plate between the cylinders, and crank case. The bad thing with this is it alters the port timing. It causes all ports to open sooner wich might not be ideal with your current porting or riding style.

 

x2

[Fakkundo]

Yes because a 4 mill stroker crank drops right in. If you go with a 7 or 10 mill you have to cut trenches in the crank cases so the rods dont scrap as they spin.

 

 

All stroker cranks require you do something with the clearance between the Piston and Cylinder Head. The most prefered method is using a cool head or stock head that has been cut deeper. Approx 2mm. The stoker crank causes the pistons to fall 2mm farther down, and pops up 2mm out of the cylinder. The other option is to use a thick 2mm spacer plate between the cylinders, and crank case. The bad thing with this is it alters the port timing. It causes all ports to open sooner wich might not be ideal with your current porting or riding style.

 

Thanks for the clarification, just a quick question: what do you mean with "stock head that has been cut deeper"? I guess this is the opposite to mill/shave the stock one.

About the 2nd option, a few buddies have the same setup here as well, it seems to be a good option to save a couple bucks (not my idea anyway)

[gotta_goatsfast]

...because the piston moves 2mm farther (in the case of a 4mm stroked crankshaft) in either direction. If the piston rises 2mm higher than stock, what do you think will happen if we did not address this? Therefore, if you re-use the factory head what do you need to do to accomadate the extra "rise" of the piston?

 

As for using spacer plates, I strongly advise against it. As said previously, it alters your port timings (relationship between ports and piston/crank position changes) and it adds one more gasket to the top end. Since this joins the top end to the case (it is stressed a lot holding the cylinders to the case on every powerstroke) you really want to make it as least complicated as possible. An added gasket provides a greater potential for a leak.... a leak that can add un-metered air into the cylinder causing a lean condition (can be fatal to your motor).

 

First thing... know your budget. If you blow your budget on fancy parts and run out half way through, you'll end up with no motor for riding season. After you've established a budget, find out what you can do with it. Talk to our sponsors and see what they can do for you. If none of these sound appealing, wait til you have more in the bank. Lastly, plan your build for future improvements. Spending a lot of coin on a hotrods 54mm stroke crank and stock stroke cub cylinders are fine if this is your absolute final goal. But if you want to step up the power, you'll have to purchase ALL of these parts again. If you opt for a 58mm stroke (4mm stroker) and stock ported cylinders, you'll have a fun bike that is easy on your budget. When you have a surplus in your savings, pull the stock ported cylinders off and purchase a 421 cub or serval top end. Allowing you to keep some of the other parts. With planning for future increases in power, you will want to cut your trans and add the usual shifting mods while you've split the cases.

[gangstahic]

...because the piston moves 2mm farther (in the case of a 4mm stroked crankshaft) in either direction. If the piston rises 2mm higher than stock, what do you think will happen if we did not address this? Therefore, if you re-use the factory head what do you need to do to accomadate the extra "rise" of the piston?

 

As for using spacer plates, I strongly advise against it. As said previously, it alters your port timings (relationship between ports and piston/crank position changes) and it adds one more gasket to the top end. Since this joins the top end to the case (it is stressed a lot holding the cylinders to the case on every powerstroke) you really want to make it as least complicated as possible. An added gasket provides a greater potential for a leak.... a leak that can add un-metered air into the cylinder causing a lean condition (can be fatal to your motor).

 

First thing... know your budget. If you blow your budget on fancy parts and run out half way through, you'll end up with no motor for riding season. After you've established a budget, find out what you can do with it. Talk to our sponsors and see what they can do for you. If none of these sound appealing, wait til you have more in the bank. Lastly, plan your build for future improvements. Spending a lot of coin on a hotrods 54mm stroke crank and stock stroke cub cylinders are fine if this is your absolute final goal. But if you want to step up the power, you'll have to purchase ALL of these parts again. If you opt for a 58mm stroke (4mm stroker) and stock ported cylinders, you'll have a fun bike that is easy on your budget. When you have a surplus in your savings, pull the stock ported cylinders off and purchase a 421 cub or serval top end. Allowing you to keep some of the other parts. With planning for future increases in power, you will want to cut your trans and add the usual shifting mods while you've split the cases.

 

Word

[jbooker82]

Thanks for the clarification, just a quick question: what do you mean with "stock head that has been cut deeper"? I guess this is the opposite to mill/shave the stock one.

About the 2nd option, a few buddies have the same setup here as well, it seems to be a good option to save a couple bucks (not my idea anyway)

 

 

Like what was said above they cut the combustion chambers deeper in to the head. That way the piston doesnt smack it because they will come up out of the cylinder an extra 2mm. You use the stroker domes, or cut head so you dont have to stick a thick 2mm spacer plate under the cylinders. Most all builders when they build a 4 mill motor will port the cylinders to not use a spacer plate.