j_rod421 Posted July 15, 2012 Report Posted July 15, 2012 Guys, I'm slowly but surely building another chassis to strictly drag race with. With the economy being in the tanker, I'm not making millions selling pumps and electric motors right now. So, money is a draw back right now. For the time being, I'm going to swap the motors back and forth (drag chassis for track races and weekends the wife doesn't want to go to the dunes). One thing I'd like to do is have a set of carbs set up for alcohol on the drag chassis, then stick with sunoco 112 on the play chassis. First question, is there any draw back to switching between the two several times a year, other than the obvious hastle? Second question, where's a good place to start on the set up. I've never set a banshee up on alchohol. I plan to buy a set of keihn 39pwk's set up on alchohol mainly because that's what I'm running right now on gas. Can you advance the timing enough with just an adjustable timing plate? What kind of timing advance does it entail? We run 35 degrees advanced on the circle burner race car. My current set up is listed below. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! FYI... Eventually I'll be moving the cub into the drag chassis full time and building a serval motor for the play chassis. 421 Cub w/ 17cc Domes, clean up port job Ricky Stator Adjustable Timing Plate Ricky Stator CDI OEM Coil Iridium Plugs Shears Small Bore In Frames Stock Cages w/ Boyesen Carbon Fiber Reeds (Soon to be Upgraded to VF3's w/ stuffers) Quote
BigRed350x Posted July 16, 2012 Report Posted July 16, 2012 Guys, I'm slowly but surely building another chassis to strictly drag race with. With the economy being in the tanker, I'm not making millions selling pumps and electric motors right now. So, money is a draw back right now. For the time being, I'm going to swap the motors back and forth (drag chassis for track races and weekends the wife doesn't want to go to the dunes). One thing I'd like to do is have a set of carbs set up for alcohol on the drag chassis, then stick with sunoco 112 on the play chassis. First question, is there any draw back to switching between the two several times a year, other than the obvious hastle? Second question, where's a good place to start on the set up. I've never set a banshee up on alchohol. I plan to buy a set of keihn 39pwk's set up on alchohol mainly because that's what I'm running right now on gas. Can you advance the timing enough with just an adjustable timing plate? What kind of timing advance does it entail? We run 35 degrees advanced on the circle burner race car. My current set up is listed below. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! FYI... Eventually I'll be moving the cub into the drag chassis full time and building a serval motor for the play chassis. 421 Cub w/ 17cc Domes, clean up port job Ricky Stator Adjustable Timing Plate Ricky Stator CDI OEM Coil Iridium Plugs Shears Small Bore In Frames Stock Cages w/ Boyesen Carbon Fiber Reeds (Soon to be Upgraded to VF3's w/ stuffers) Save yourself the time and get a set of mikuni carbs if you plan to swap a lot. 1 set of carbs and just change the dump tubes and needles around and you're good to go for either fuel. No harm in switching between the two, just like you said, its going to be a pain in the butt. Your timing plate will offer you plenty of adjustment for both fuels. The stock CDI box advances the timing a little bit already, so the +4, +7, +9, etc is timing added to the entire curve thats in the stock box. If you want a custom curve get yourself a dyna and program some custom curves in it, one curve for each fuel. Quote
j_rod421 Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Posted July 16, 2012 Save yourself the time and get a set of mikuni carbs if you plan to swap a lot. 1 set of carbs and just change the dump tubes and needles around and you're good to go for either fuel. No harm in switching between the two, just like you said, its going to be a pain in the butt. Your timing plate will offer you plenty of adjustment for both fuels. The stock CDI box advances the timing a little bit already, so the +4, +7, +9, etc is timing added to the entire curve thats in the stock box. If you want a custom curve get yourself a dyna and program some custom curves in it, one curve for each fuel. I used to have some 28mm Mik's. I couldn't tell you what model they were though. What model would your recommend and who would you have do the mod's for the power jets? Another question... I've seen some issues come up with the duneable overrides with other peoples bikes and readin threads on other websites. I think it sounds like a great deal for what I'm looking to do temporarily. What's your experience with them? Too good to be true or actually a great mod? I've really wanted to try the dyna's but I was always "scared" of it because that kind of tuning seems to be over my head. I can jet and adjust timing with the stator plates by the feel of the seat, but I get nervous I guess when it comes to hooking it up to a computer. Are they fairly user friendly? I know 50 ?'s.... I want to have a port job done on the cubs. I've talked to a couple people and have gotten completely different responses on the outcome. One guys says it wasn't worth the money, they other said that it was night and day. I know it depends on the builder. I'm in Kansas so I've been thinkin about having Jeff at FAST do a job on them. With the cubs, since the port timing is already pretty drag, can you get pretty good gains with additional porting? Quote
BigRed350x Posted July 17, 2012 Report Posted July 17, 2012 I used to have some 28mm Mik's. I couldn't tell you what model they were though. What model would your recommend and who would you have do the mod's for the power jets? Another question... I've seen some issues come up with the duneable overrides with other peoples bikes and readin threads on other websites. I think it sounds like a great deal for what I'm looking to do temporarily. What's your experience with them? Too good to be true or actually a great mod? I've really wanted to try the dyna's but I was always "scared" of it because that kind of tuning seems to be over my head. I can jet and adjust timing with the stator plates by the feel of the seat, but I get nervous I guess when it comes to hooking it up to a computer. Are they fairly user friendly? I know 50 ?'s.... I want to have a port job done on the cubs. I've talked to a couple people and have gotten completely different responses on the outcome. One guys says it wasn't worth the money, they other said that it was night and day. I know it depends on the builder. I'm in Kansas so I've been thinkin about having Jeff at FAST do a job on them. With the cubs, since the port timing is already pretty drag, can you get pretty good gains with additional porting? Give Jeff a call, he can answer all of your questions for you... If you're close to him, and you like the way he treats you on the phone, then go with him and have him do your work. I would suggest you call Kevin @ HJR. He does top-notch work and has some of the fastest turnaround time in the industry. You wouldn't be disappointed with him. - Jared Quote
03crawldaddy Posted July 19, 2012 Report Posted July 19, 2012 Why not have two sets of carbs? Leave them in the frames, just switch motor. Maybe that's what you are talking about already and I missed it completely. Quote
dajogejr Posted July 19, 2012 Report Posted July 19, 2012 Get rid of any Ricky Stator ignition part for starters. They are garbage, period. You'll chase your tail forever on electrical/tuning issues. 17cc domes is a little tight for my liking unless you're above 4000 feet elevation. Even on a 4 mil. I've always been a fan of more timing and less compression. To be honest, to get the best performance you'd use different domes for alky as you do gas. However, you're looking for a do all/be all motor, you'll have to sacrifice a little performance in order to just swap frames and carbs. I always start at 7 on timing. On my old 300 foot bike I ran 7 to 11 degrees of timing, high .040s to mid .050's squish on a 20cc dome. This was a 10 mil cub, granted, not a 4 mil. Quote
J-Madd Posted July 19, 2012 Report Posted July 19, 2012 I'd say 2 sets of carbs, 20 cc domes, and a dyna ignition and you'd be good to go. Set up a curve for gas and alky (as mentioned.) Quote
Rotax Raptor Posted July 19, 2012 Report Posted July 19, 2012 I'd say 2 sets of carbs, 20 cc domes, and a dyna ignition and you'd be good to go. Set up a curve for gas and alky (as mentioned.) X2. If you try running 17cc domes with alcohol and +8 timing = big trouble. I'm at 800 ' above sea level and run +8 timing and custom cut domes roughly 20 cc. Quote
J-Madd Posted July 19, 2012 Report Posted July 19, 2012 I have a 421 Cub you need to buy for the drag bike. Has ran 4.0s in stock chassis and 3.8s in drag chassis in 300 ft. I have another that has run 3.7s but I'm keeping that one. Quote
j_rod421 Posted July 24, 2012 Author Report Posted July 24, 2012 Get rid of any Ricky Stator ignition part for starters. They are garbage, period. You'll chase your tail forever on electrical/tuning issues. 17cc domes is a little tight for my liking unless you're above 4000 feet elevation. Even on a 4 mil. I've always been a fan of more timing and less compression. To be honest, to get the best performance you'd use different domes for alky as you do gas. However, you're looking for a do all/be all motor, you'll have to sacrifice a little performance in order to just swap frames and carbs. I always start at 7 on timing. On my old 300 foot bike I ran 7 to 11 degrees of timing, high .040s to mid .050's squish on a 20cc dome. This was a 10 mil cub, granted, not a 4 mil. I wasn't sure if the alky would work with 20's. I'm with you bud. If I can run lower compression and comp it with advancement that's what I want. Domes don't cost much either compared to wiping out a set of cylinders and trashing a crank. The ricky stator stuff was mostly just convenience (fried EVERYTHING at little sahara). I thought about the Nology coil. Is the Dyna fairly easy to tune? Not too computer savy. I'm sure I'll just have to get one and play with it. Quote
j_rod421 Posted July 24, 2012 Author Report Posted July 24, 2012 X2. If you try running 17cc domes with alcohol and +8 timing = big trouble. I'm at 800 ' above sea level and run +8 timing and custom cut domes roughly 20 cc. What problems? Pre-ignition? Detonation? When I tear this thing down this winter, what issues should I look for (if i do indeed have any)? Quote
j_rod421 Posted July 24, 2012 Author Report Posted July 24, 2012 Thanks for the responses guys! Great input! Now... Who's got a used set of Servals for sale????? Quote
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