Screamin Banshee92 Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 I was wondering if a coil going bad would make it seem as if one of the plugs is fauled and then it runs great and the not so great only the one cylinder seems to be doing it.. Any way to test it. Also the plug on that side is black. I have both air screws at 1 3/4 turns out 210 main jet and the rest is stock with fresh top end rebuild no boring just new rings n pistons. K&n air filter with stock air box and lid. Stator was also replaced as it was cracked Just seems as the one side don't always fire correctly.. any ideas before i buy a new coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfobasheeboy Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 I was wondering if a coil going bad would make it seem as if one of the plugs is fauled and then it runs great and the not so great only the one cylinder seems to be doing it.. Any way to test it. Also the plug on that side is black. I have both air screws at 1 3/4 turns out 210 main jet and the rest is stock with fresh top end rebuild no boring just new rings n pistons. K&n air filter with stock air box and lid. Stator was also replaced as it was cracked Just seems as the one side don't always fire correctly.. any ideas before i buy a new coil. Check the carbs are they sync? Then try to switch the plug wire around & see if the problem move to the other side. Also check the pick up coil adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
11AGUY Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 (edited) Q#32:How do I test the coil and spark plug caps? A#32:Locate the coil on the bike, it’s bolted to a frame rail just forward of the right cylinder. Unplug the orange and black wires from the wiring harness to the coil, and pull the spark plug boots off the spark plugs, then use a 12mm wrench to remove the coil mounting bolts. Many bike shops and dealerships have a bench tester for coils, if they’re nice they might just test it for free...in addition, resistance tests may test OK but the coil can still be bad, so if possible have it bench tested or swap in a known working coil to be 100% certain, even if you gotta pay a little bit for it. To test the coil, use an ohmmeter to first measure the primary side resistance between the "+" and "-" terminals that connect to the wiring harness, you should have between 0.28 and 0.38 Ohms. Next test the secondary side resistance between the "-" terminal and the connector inside EACH spark plug boot, (Edit: 11-29-2010, New recommended testing method, Rick) bansheesandrider, on 29 November 2010 - 09:38 AM, said: ...On ALL years Banshees you want to test the secondary by going wire to wire, not wire to ground as the manuals say. That is because a Banshee fire both cylinders at the same time, twice every revolution. Banshees and cars that are distributor less ignition(with coil packs) send the spark out one wire to the plug, it jumps the gap to the ground electrode and travels through the metal of the head to the paired plugs ground electrode where it jumps the gap to the center electrode and travel back to coil on the other wire. That is why you have to check it wire to wire. The way the manual says is the way to check a single cylinder coil OR a coil that is used with a distributor. you should have between 4,700 and 7,100 Ohms in each one spark plug wire to spark plug wire. If the secondary side test shows an open circuit (infinite resistance), remove the spark plug cap and test directly to the wire, if you then get the right resistance, replace the spark plug cap and test again; if it's still infinite the cap is bad. If you still show an open circuit at the end of the spark plug wire, remove the wire at the coil and test again; if it is still infinite Ohms, the coil is shot, if not the spark plug wire probably is bad. ] http://bansheehq.com...howtopic=133650 use the above link for all electrical questions just be advised, for stock plug boots, none of them have continuity for some reason, so when you check the secondary your probably gonna need to pull the boots off the wires and stick the probes in... just went thru this with mine Edited April 1, 2012 by 11AGUY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screamin Banshee92 Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Q#32:How do I test the coil and spark plug caps? A#32:Locate the coil on the bike, it’s bolted to a frame rail just forward of the right cylinder. Unplug the orange and black wires from the wiring harness to the coil, and pull the spark plug boots off the spark plugs, then use a 12mm wrench to remove the coil mounting bolts. Many bike shops and dealerships have a bench tester for coils, if they’re nice they might just test it for free...in addition, resistance tests may test OK but the coil can still be bad, so if possible have it bench tested or swap in a known working coil to be 100% certain, even if you gotta pay a little bit for it. To test the coil, use an ohmmeter to first measure the primary side resistance between the "+" and "-" terminals that connect to the wiring harness, you should have between 0.28 and 0.38 Ohms. Next test the secondary side resistance between the "-" terminal and the connector inside EACH spark plug boot, (Edit: 11-29-2010, New recommended testing method, Rick) bansheesandrider, on 29 November 2010 - 09:38 AM, said: ...On ALL years Banshees you want to test the secondary by going wire to wire, not wire to ground as the manuals say. That is because a Banshee fire both cylinders at the same time, twice every revolution. Banshees and cars that are distributor less ignition(with coil packs) send the spark out one wire to the plug, it jumps the gap to the ground electrode and travels through the metal of the head to the paired plugs ground electrode where it jumps the gap to the center electrode and travel back to coil on the other wire. That is why you have to check it wire to wire. The way the manual says is the way to check a single cylinder coil OR a coil that is used with a distributor. you should have between 4,700 and 7,100 Ohms in each one spark plug wire to spark plug wire. If the secondary side test shows an open circuit (infinite resistance), remove the spark plug cap and test directly to the wire, if you then get the right resistance, replace the spark plug cap and test again; if it's still infinite the cap is bad. If you still show an open circuit at the end of the spark plug wire, remove the wire at the coil and test again; if it is still infinite Ohms, the coil is shot, if not the spark plug wire probably is bad. ] http://bansheehq.com...howtopic=133650 use the above link for all electrical questions just be advised, for stock plug boots, none of them have continuity for some reason, so when you check the secondary your probably gonna need to pull the boots off the wires and stick the probes in... just went thru this with mine Carbs are sync as far as I can tell they move at the same time I think its an electric isssue I dont think its gas related. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothman Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 I was wondering if a coil going bad would make it seem as if one of the plugs is fauled and then it runs great and the not so great only the one cylinder seems to be doing it.. Any way to test it. Also the plug on that side is black. I have both air screws at 1 3/4 turns out 210 main jet and the rest is stock with fresh top end rebuild no boring just new rings n pistons. K&n air filter with stock air box and lid. Stator was also replaced as it was cracked Just seems as the one side don't always fire correctly.. any ideas before i buy a new coil. Primary coil resistance should be 0.28-0.38 Ohms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 first thing to do is pull the plugs and see what they have to say. may be as simple as a fouled plug. could be a bad plug cap. when the coil goes, it is generally both sides that go bad, not just one. the coil has one single secondary winding, and is supposed to be connected to ground in the middle of that winding, but most coils will never read that connection brand new, yet work just fine, even with one plug disconnected. if new plugs are mis-firing, test for spark and fuel. if the spark is not good brite blue on the one, then uncrew the cap and ohm it. trim 1/4" off the end of that wire and ohm the coil from there.caps can be 5ohm, or 5kohm. if they are 5ohm, or less, you should be using resistor plugs. now, here is the part you may not like: you mention new topend, and stator. about the atator- i would be pulling the cover and checking the flywheel gap on both sides. you do this, both to ensure it is gapped correctly (you should be able to just slide the flap of a spark-plug box in between the node and pickup) and that the flywheel is round and on the crank square. you should probably describe in detail how you replaced the stator. the correct puller must be used on the flywheel, and never stick anything through the holes to hold it in place. loctite on the nut highly recomended. what brand stator? why did the top-end get done? was there piston damage? pitting/melting? this could be caused by a lean condition, which could be in the carb, or airleak from the intake/reeds, and may still exist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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