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Posted (edited)

Ok so I just got my TORS kit installed so know those ugly ass boxes are gone, now it will not idle for nothing the adjustments ontop of the carb caps should I have to turn them out more to open the carbs to maybe help out for the idle or no, how much of the hole should I have filed off I just grinded them down flat should that be enough the screw if you look inside the carb is like this far sticking inside the carb [ ] about that much inside them marks is this enough? Now jetting help maybe thats an issue fmf requires this for what I have. My specs are this stock reeds with stock crossover bar,fmf powercore 2 silencers with fattys,190 degree raised ports, and Outerwears Airbox Lid with uni filter. Does this sound about right,or maybe I should goto a 27.5 pilot? I also live in Portage,PA not sure on the altitude where I live.

 

Main Jet

260

Pilot Jet

30

Needle

STOCK

Needle Position

3RD

Air Screw

1.5

Edited by CruelSoul
Posted

I ran a similar set up with 290 Mains, 27.5 pilots, needle in the middle, air screw 1.5 turns out.

 

The adjusters on top of the carbs are for syncing the carbs, the screws on the side of the carb you should have drilled, and tapped is the idle adjustment.

Posted

Sounds like that's your problem. FMF website says 27.5 pilots, 280-300 mains depending on elevation, needle on middle clip to start. Im running 290\27.5\2 turns on my current setup with fattys at sea level, little fat but safe and not fouling plugs.

Posted

A sharp fucker looks to see that the cutaway is facing the air cleaner in case carbs are old as dirt and you cant see through the window.

 

X-2 on jetting, start fat, work down. Slide idle stops need to be able to contact slide, might have to take more off carb body. :cheers:

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