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Clutch question


escobar

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Whenever I let the clutch out it has no engagement until the very end, when the lever is almost totally out. Is this something I can fix with adjustment or does it need a new clutch? I found this on ebay, is this what I would need? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-Kit-Heavy-Duty-Springs-87-06-YAMAHA-BANSHEE-350-/160663630984?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item25684c7488

 

 

thanks!

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Is your adjustment at your clutch lever all the way out ? And check the pointer where the clutch cable attaches to the actuator it should point at the mark on the case. if it does not line up you can adjust it pretty easily and i would also make sure that all your steel and fiber plates are within spec if you have to take off the case cover.i dont know if you have read thru the ( Banshee Bottom End Assembly Walkthrough ) but im pretty sure that it shows you how to adjust and install clutch if thats the route you have to go.

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I need to check those things. I do believe that my clutch lever is all the way out. I will check the mark and see if it ligns up as well. I was mainly wondering what wears out and needs to be replaced usually, guess its hard to tell until you disassemble the clutch...

 

 

You kinda have to peel back a layer at a time Like you said. As far as what usually wears. i have noticed a lot of people replacing the clutch basket with one of the billet ones and also the pancake bearing. im not sure if there is any particular defects with the stock ones or not and im sure there is other items to give extra attention as far as the clutch goes that i have forgotten about. im sure some of the experts will chime in on the subject if needed. Good Luck.

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wear limit for the friction plates are 2.7 mm (0.106 in ) and the clutch plate warp limit is 0.05 mm (0.002 in ) then the clutch spring ( minimum ) free length is 34.4 mm (1.35 in )

If you need any other specific information from the book let me know.

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thanks guys, gonna pull it off tomorrow and see whats going on. Do I need any special tools to do it?

 

its a pretty straight forward job nothing to major involved that i remember. only special tool i can think of that you may need is a digital caliper or some type of measuring tool to check your specs. but you may get lucky and see something obvious going on in there and not need it. If i have forgotten anything that you may need to do the job i'm sure somebody will add there opinion before you do the job tomorrow . Good Luck with it .

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its a pretty straight forward job nothing to major involved that i remember. only special tool i can think of that you may need is a digital caliper or some type of measuring tool to check your specs. but you may get lucky and see something obvious going on in there and not need it. If i have forgotten anything that you may need to do the job i'm sure somebody will add there opinion before you do the job tomorrow . Good Luck with it .

 

thanks, I have a digital caliper so I should be good. I adjusted the cable so it points at that mark and I have NO clutch haha. I cant get it to move...I have to screw the cable in to get it in gear... :shootself:

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Are these grooves bad? Can I file them smooth? The discs and springs are all in spec..

 

I'm curious about this too since I have some of those grooves from the plates and don't feel like spending more money on a upgraded clutch basket but sounds like that's your problem if the plates are kinda like stuck in the groove and can't "walk" in and out but I'm still new to these things so waiting to hear from some others if smoothing those grooves thus widening the gap will affect anything. BTW on my evo 8 (mitsu lancer evolution) I have an exedy triple clutch which is pretty much a similiar setup with these clutches as far as clutch basket and plates go and when people have issues with the clutch dragging some people grind a little metal off in that same area to fix the problem so the plates can move in and out.

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