HIDEF

^^^ +2 on what jereme said.. On my shee i put a little dielectric grease in the open connectors on the harness and then electrical taped them closed, and to the harness. But i just wanted to make the harness look neat, and is most likely unnecessary. Good Luck !

I'm no expert by any means, My .02 is to go with the Wiseco. That's what i use and i think that most of the ppl here use them in there banshee's. Good Luck !

just a quick question about this t-stat. would this benefit the engine in the summer time too by holding the hot coolant in the radiator and cooling it off Or would this be something that should be removed in the summer. Thank You Sorry for HiJacking Your thread.

did you come across the Ohm meter-How To about halfway down the page in the link that Andrew gave you. if not its got some decent info on how the meter works.

I had an issue similar to yours with my Dirt Bike. It would not idle at all or would idle to high. I found that the carb was a little dirty from sitting for a while and the slide was sticking a little at the bottom.cleaning it solved my problem but it was a bike with one carb so might not be your issue. Just something for you to try if you didn't already do that first. Good Luck .

My .02 is to leave them off unless there is a clearance issue of some sort.

I Hope Everyone Got Some Good Shee Parts Under The Tree This Year. Have A Great Holiday Everybody .

have you taken a look around the jetting & exhaust forum to compare your jetting to one of the other members bikes with similar mods ,temp, elevation, etc.. IMO if you got good compression and spark then i would start looking into fuel and jetting. Good Luck !!

'' Two Stroke Enhancement Device allowing too much liquid into your crankcase causing mass amounts of anti 4stroke matter build up''. ^^ LMAO ^^

I think if you file them, you would have more room for the plates to slam the fingers and the wear will accelerate, but i may be wrong. i cant tell how bad it looks by the pic but in my opinion i would just replace it if the grooves are really bad.

x3 on the top end rebuild but it wont hurt to do a compression test and post your result just in case.

its a pretty straight forward job nothing to major involved that i remember. only special tool i can think of that you may need is a digital caliper or some type of measuring tool to check your specs. but you may get lucky and see something obvious going on in there and not need it. If i have forgotten anything that you may need to do the job i'm sure somebody will add there opinion before you do the job tomorrow . Good Luck with it .

lol i guess my copy and paste tactics didnt work properly but the part number is # 5N7

i dont know if you already grabbed what you needed from one of the members but if not i dug up some info on this site from a member named ( carvedart ) . im also not sure if your talking about the stock carbs so if you are heres some info The stock carb is: Mikuni VM26SS Spigot (round-slide)<br style="color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: verdana, arial, tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px; background-color: rgb(33, 33, 33); ">The stock Jet Needle is: 5N7<br style="color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: verdana, arial, tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px; background-color: rgb(33, 33, 33); "><br style="color: rgb(204, 204, 204); font-family: verdana, arial, tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 16px; background-color: rgb(33, 33, 33); ">1st character = needle length (5 = 5 Series, 50.00-59.99mm) 2nd character = amount of taper in 15 min intervals (N = 3 degs 30 mins) 3rd character = materials and finish (7 = [exact length, major OD, point of beginning of taper in reference to clip position, manufacture specific])

wear limit for the friction plates are 2.7 mm (0.106 in ) and the clutch plate warp limit is 0.05 mm (0.002 in ) then the clutch spring ( minimum ) free length is 34.4 mm (1.35 in ) If you need any other specific information from the book let me know.