sandrappy Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 Is it just me or does everyone's billet cranks weld themselves to the flywheel? what causes this and how do i get it to stop happening???? I have ran a ricky stator fly wheel, two different stock flywheels, lapped the crank to the flywheel, coated the crank and flywheel in red locktite, tried coating both with grease, lapped and installed dry, used multiple different keys. the list goes on. No matter what i do or what i try the flywheel always welds itself to the crank. I've had to replace the shaft once already and two different fly wheels. I've tried every trick in the book and this last time i pulled the flywheel it had just started to weld itself again. This motor hardly had any run time on it, so what do i do to stop this from happening for good? Also why does it only seem to be the billet cranks? i have never had a stock or hot rod crank do this. I want to hear solutions and not recommendations as i have tried ever single recommendation and none have work. So if you have had success with a method please fill me in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxtrax Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 Is it actually welding itself or is it just sticking on because of the taper? How are you removing the flywheel? Is it just me or does everyone's billet cranks weld themselves to the flywheel? what causes this and how do i get it to stop happening???? I have ran a ricky stator fly wheel, two different stock flywheels, lapped the crank to the flywheel, coated the crank and flywheel in red locktite, tried coating both with grease, lapped and installed dry, used multiple different keys. the list goes on. No matter what i do or what i try the flywheel always welds itself to the crank. I've had to replace the shaft once already and two different fly wheels. I've tried every trick in the book and this last time i pulled the flywheel it had just started to weld itself again. This motor hardly had any run time on it, so what do i do to stop this from happening for good? Also why does it only seem to be the billet cranks? i have never had a stock or hot rod crank do this. I want to hear solutions and not recommendations as i have tried ever single recommendation and none have work. So if you have had success with a method please fill me in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ginger Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 maybe try a little anti seize when putting it together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandrappy Posted December 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 The flywheel is welding itself to the crank. When i pull the flywheel off there is actually chunks of metal ripped off the crank and stuck to the flywheel. I can get the flywheel off fine but it is ruining the crank shaft every time i pull the flywheel. If it runs long enough it actually will pull huge chunks out than i will have to replace the entire crank web.... which is expensive! I'm wondering is it just the larger stroke of the cranks causing additional movement, is it the two different types of metal causing electrolysis and fusing them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 it shouldn't be electrically fusing itself together. i know you said you would not like to hear recommendations.....however i would try some anti-sieze. also when you install the key....there is a trick for boat props that i also use for the cranks. you want to get the flywheel on and the nut on.....then take a piece of wire and from the BACKSIDE of the keyway...use the wire to push the key TOWARDS the nut. the object of the key is to keep the flywheel from spinning during installation.....and if it rides too far back towards the crank during install it can "high key" itself on some cranks and cause it to bite real hard on one side of the taper than the other. i wonder if that is happening to yours. also....are you following torque specs or are you trying to put on the nut with like a freakin thunder-gun impact gun? maybe a little bit too much torque??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicklez Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 WOW! Guns4children has the opposite problem. His flys the fuck off while hes riding! Sorry Ron. Had to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandrappy Posted December 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 i thought about putting anti sieze on it as it is the one thing i haven't tried. I don't use an impact and will never use and impact on a crank. I torque it down to yamaha spec. I think its around 60lbs and then this last time i torqued it to 80lbs to see if that would help hold it. I can try the wire trick but once that flywheel is torqued down and if the key is actually holding up the flywheel i highly doubt i would be able to move that key with a wire. Not only that but the strange thing i noticed this last time is that the places it welded together was right on both sides of the key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 no no....i meant while the nut is still loose and the flywheel isn't against the taper yet......this way your actually letting the nut PUSH the key in towards the crank so that the key is as far towards the nut as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 clean off all that crap. NO locktight on the shaft NO other BS> use a new key lap the wheel ontothe crank and then replace your stator and the entire grounding of the electrical system.. there may also be an issue with the taper of the crank not being correct.. the flywheel can be arching onto the crank and causing an issue. i only use blue locktight on the nuts threads. and tq to factory specs. if you want you can also put a washer in behind the nut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 i think cam has it nailed. sounds like its not contacting the crank evenly causing it to gall. stuff moves more than you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandrappy Posted December 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 clean off all that crap. NO locktight on the shaft NO other BS> use a new key lap the wheel ontothe crank and then replace your stator and the entire grounding of the electrical system.. there may also be an issue with the taper of the crank not being correct.. the flywheel can be arching onto the crank and causing an issue. i only use blue locktight on the nuts threads. and tq to factory specs. if you want you can also put a washer in behind the nut I tried torquing it a little higher to hold the flywheel on tighter so there was no movement and no welding action did not work and the factory 60 lbs did the same as the 80 lbs. The problem is i have ran the flywheel with nothing on it and only put locktite on the nut to make sure it didn't come loose. Still welded itself. I don't think it is the taper of the crank, because i had a flywheel weld itself so bad that we had to replace the entire crank web. Also has happened with multiple different flywheels and on different crank webs. Plus it is welding itself all along the length of the shaft, thus don't think the taper is off and not seating right. This last time i marked the entire taper of the crankshaft and lapped it until there were no low spots and all the marker was gone so it had a perfect contact area (wasn't any low spots to begin with anyway). Still welded itself. Also in the years i have consistently had this problem i have ran 3 different stators: the original one, a replacement oem one and a ricky stator. made no difference what stator was ran and didn't think it would anyway. How would a stator cause an electrical issue? there is no current on the flywheel or crank being generated. oh and i have also ran multiple different keys, made no difference. i literally have tried everything to fix it with no luck. It is not galling. I have seen a key shear before and seen a flywheel gall, this is not whats happening. The crank and flywheel are fusing together and when you remove the flywheel it pulls large chunks of metal out of the crank. Not trying to sound mean or come off wrong, but have any of you guys actually ran a billet crank? i know it happens to others, i'm wondering if anyone has had issues with billet twister cranks? Maybe just a crankworks billet deal??? Jereme6655 Oh okay i gotcha now. I will have to remember that wire trick to make sure the key is pushed forward and not holding anything up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pweezy42 Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 why dont you throw some pics up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted December 7, 2011 Report Share Posted December 7, 2011 the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting differnt results.. if you have replaced multiple flywheels, and multiple crank webs and neither are built buy the same company. and your getting the same results SOMETHING IS WRONG>> screw billet cranks. DEMAND a proper built crank or sue them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECshee Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 why dont you throw some pics up x2. Halfway through i said "hey, pictures explain a 1000 words" i wonder why no pics yet? Although i have no technical input on this, it is definitely interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WINDYCITYJOHN400 Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 And two years old. Thanks for playing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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