421alkybanshee Posted June 4, 2011 Report Posted June 4, 2011 Hi, what is the best way to stop or slow down with a lockup clutch and a full override tranny cut by RDZ? I have a 421 cub on alcohol with a 2-6 cut transmission with a billet basket with a direct drive and a pancake bearing installed. Once i reach 1/4 mile, How should I slow down without welding the clutch rod and ball? Right now ive been starting out in 1st using the clutch, then shifting through all the gears then stepping on the back brake and fronts too slow down a little then pulling in the clutch untill I come to a complete stop. One time I did that i had a hard time pulling the clutch in because I think the motor was too high rpm and the direct drive was still somewhat engaged. Give me some tips please, I dont want too tear down all the time because of the pancake bearing failure, or somthing of that nature. Quote
NYUK Posted June 4, 2011 Report Posted June 4, 2011 never had a pancake weld. just clutch it and brake it. Quote
421alkybanshee Posted June 4, 2011 Author Report Posted June 4, 2011 The reason I asked this is I just had a clutch weld problem on the first time out. The only thing i can figure is I put the rod and ball and pancake bearing in dry, so this time I filled the center where the rod and ball is with grease even the pancake bearing. I took it out today, and didnt have a problem but I only got on it hard twice and one time I had a hard time pulling the clutch in but once i breaked a bit then I pulled the clutch in with no problem. I used RDZ heavy spring on every other spring other than the everyother stock spring and man is the clutch hard to pull. Theres another question, with the lockup should I just use stock springs or stay with that ive done? thanks is advance I appreciate your help. I just dont want problems right out of the gate when I get this thing to milan or martin speedway to see what it will run in 1/4 mile Quote
vifferman Posted June 4, 2011 Report Posted June 4, 2011 My understanding of the override tranny is that unless you are on the power the clutch (lever) should be in. They are made to bang gears forward but if you get off the throttle bad things can happen. I was always told to pull in the clutch as soon as you lift and then hit the brakes. Quote
sleeper06 Posted June 5, 2011 Report Posted June 5, 2011 I pull the clutch as soon as i go through the traps coast to a semi stop and lut her in first and go,as for clutch tuning everybike is diffrent i have some primary springs with two coils cut off them for slip out of the hole,diffrent track all stock springs,my buddies cub 3n3,but most all i have recorded diffrent stuff on paper from track to track.I also play with the finger weight a bit ,alumn bolts,nuts and a gram scale,I also have a spring tension gauage to know whwt direction im going in Quote
421alkybanshee Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Posted June 5, 2011 Today when i was topped out in gear it was difficult to pull the clutch in(hard), then i figured i should hit hte brakes a bit and then i was able to pull the clutch in. Is this normal? i figured it was the lock up still engaged because of the engine RPM. If possible could someone post a pick of how that pancake bearing is installed? I hope I have that installed correctly. Quote
georgie Posted June 6, 2011 Report Posted June 6, 2011 Today when i was topped out in gear it was difficult to pull the clutch in(hard), then i figured i should hit hte brakes a bit and then i was able to pull the clutch in. Is this normal? i figured it was the lock up still engaged because of the engine RPM. If possible could someone post a pick of how that pancake bearing is installed? I hope I have that installed correctly. I use old used stock clutch springs on my lock up. Quote
sleeper06 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Posted June 6, 2011 Honestly i onkly pull the cltch in 5th,6th but have not issues at all even upper rpms,i put all the washers on the back of the plate and let the nub stick through for the allen key Quote
laydown Posted June 6, 2011 Report Posted June 6, 2011 I use old used stock clutch springs on my lock up. Yea you really have something going on in their, because you should never have a problem pulling the clutch. From in out first goes the washer then the bearing after the adjustment. make sure your clutch starts pulling right on the arrow and you shouldn’t have a problem pulling in the clutch and if that tranny goes bad call WCR and tell him to make yours a 1-5 with six manual level 2 with the bearing on the drum with some polish shift forks . You will be the happiest man on the world. Quote
421alkybanshee Posted June 7, 2011 Author Report Posted June 7, 2011 Yea you really have something going on in their, because you should never have a problem pulling the clutch. From in out first goes the washer then the bearing after the adjustment. make sure your clutch starts pulling right on the arrow and you shouldn’t have a problem pulling in the clutch and if that tranny goes bad call WCR and tell him to make yours a 1-5 with six manual level 2 with the bearing on the drum with some polish shift forks . You will be the happiest man on the world. Hey could i get you to post a pic of how you have the pancake bearing set up. maybe i have it on wrong.....maybe its instaled incorrectly, pics would be very helpful or a link to see how to install correctly, thanks in advance Quote
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